Time for the 10s.

Rangerz · 08-11-2014, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GSS138

Phunk you are right as well. And maybe my model of the 4 guys holding the pallet is not good.

Instead. Let's image 4 girls from the Swedish Bikini team holding you up standing on top of the Ark Of The covenant from Raiders of the Lost Ark. IT IS THEIR JOB TO MAKE SURE THE ARK STAYS PERFECTLY LEVEL!

The swimsuit model on the front left corner, is getting tired,so she bends her knees just a little bit. She stops pushing up just a little bit. the weight on the other corners is going to increase a little bit.-but mostly is going to affect her cross weight-the rear right corner.

Now that is much different than if both of the two Bikine Models holding up the front, just let go completely. In that case-theoretically, all weight would have to be transferred to the two rear set of tits(if they don't want the friggin Ark to touch the ground).

However what could also happen, is that when the FL bikini model stops pushing up and bends over, the other girls sense this, and they stop pushing up too. Eventually they all just give up and the focking Ark of the Covenant is laying in the middle of the road.

Fortunately we have a frame on the car. So if the FL is lowered say 1/4" what really ends up happening is that corner sort of becomes a Bikini model and that 15-20 extra pounds gets distributed to the other 3 b1tches because they all are secured with metal beams to each other.

Damn I actually laughed out loud

that is some fun shik

Super Werty · 08-11-2014, 06:07 PM

be careful...you might make all these changes to get it to hook, and when it does hook... something will break lol

FPenvy · 08-12-2014, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Werty

be careful...you might make all these changes to get it to hook, and when it does hook... something will break lol

agreed. this is one of my fears with going with sticky DR's on my car even being just N/A.

my luck the extra grip will end up blowing out my diff or a axle

phunk · 08-12-2014, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FPenvy

agreed. this is one of my fears with going with sticky DR's on my car even being just N/A.

my luck the extra grip will end up blowing out my diff or a axle

I honestly dont think you need to worry about anything except your axles and rear differential mount. The 3rd gear on some of the older trans used to separate but I have not not yet heard of that happening since the CD009 trans or any of the 370z trans (and it was only the high HP TT cars that I ever heard of it happen to). Our driveshaft and differential is in the category of "bulletproof" as in nearly unheard of failures.

The diff mounts are cheap and a couple hours of work to change out. The axles arent hard but expensive if you replace with upgraded ones. Just preload the drivetrain before launch and dont stay in it during wheel hop and you probably wont break an axle.

FPenvy · 08-12-2014, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I honestly dont think you need to worry about anything except your axles and rear differential mount. The 3rd gear on some of the older trans used to separate but I have not not yet heard of that happening since the CD009 trans or any of the 370z trans. Our driveshaft and differential is in the category of "bulletproof" as in nearly unheard of failures.

The diff mounts are cheap and a couple hours of work to change out. The axles arent hard but expensive if you replace with upgraded ones. Just preload the drivetrain before launch and dont stay in it during wheel hop and you probably wont break an axle.

solid info.

sadly i will not tell you how i ran my fastest 2 ET's and other 1/4 mile runs then lol my technique probably wouldnt fall into ideal for most.

also idk if it's the 7AT but i'm never had any wheel hop issues ever. i've spun on lesser prepped tracks, bald tires, or airport run ways but never any hop.

plus i think i have the only Z that will left me light up the rearsfor full burnouts with just VDC off and none of that pulling the brake fuse stuff that i see everyone say you "need" to do lol

Arrvaxx · 08-12-2014, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I honestly dont think you need to worry about anything except your axles and rear differential mount. The 3rd gear on some of the older trans used to separate but I have not not yet heard of that happening since the CD009 trans or any of the 370z trans (and it was only the high HP TT cars that I ever heard of it happen to). Our driveshaft and differential is in the category of "bulletproof" as in nearly unheard of failures.

The diff mounts are cheap and a couple hours of work to change out. The axles arent hard but expensive if you replace with upgraded ones. Just preload the drivetrain before launch and dont stay in it during wheel hop and you probably wont break an axle.

I had Fast Intentions put in Whiteline diff bushings after they tore theirs up during their test runs (video's on youtube).

Arrvaxx · 08-11-2014, 06:23 PM

Haha. That's ok. She likes it rough. Besides scars make everything sexier.

But good thing to bring up. Luckily for me I would not be stck with a garage paperweight if something went wrong. But not everyone can afford to take risks with their cars so words of caution much appreciated.

phunk · 08-12-2014, 02:18 PM

I also have the whiteline diff bushings. I busted my rear-most mount the time I went to the track, so I swapped them in.

The only time I ever really get wheel hop is in the rain. I think I got some in 1 of my passes at the track. I only brought up wheel hop because its an axle buster... I dont think its a regular problem, just wanted to mention to let off if you happen to get it.

with an auto trans car it is far easier to preload the drivetrain before launch without even thinking about it.

FPenvy · 08-12-2014, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I also have the whiteline diff bushings. I busted my rear-most mount the time I went to the track, so I swapped them in.

The only time I ever really get wheel hop is in the rain. I think I got some in 1 of my passes at the track. I only brought up wheel hop because its an axle buster... I dont think its a regular problem, just wanted to mention to let off if you happen to get it.

with an auto trans car it is far easier to preload the drivetrain before launch without even thinking about it.

anytime i've ever pre-loaded the throttle all i got was wheel spin. even only at low rpm's just spins and spins.

best time i ever had was 12.89 @ 111 and that was just holding the brake until mashing the gas when i wanted to leave the line.

only preload would maybe be whatever delay that could come from when i hit the gas with my right foot as i am releasing the brake with my left foot lol

phunk · 08-12-2014, 02:36 PM

i would still preload, just not go full throttle immediately when letting off the brake. start lower and ease into full throttle. an auto car doesnt need to worry as much about preloading though... your not dumping a clutch from higher rpm. You are either brake torque launching which is already full preloaded or doing your throttle mash which isnt going to shock the drivetrain like dropping a racing clutch. ultimately it doesnt sound like you dont need to worry about your drivetrain much at all since your 7AT, i dont really imagine anything breaking from occasional drag use.

phunk · 08-12-2014, 02:40 PM

what it really sounds like is you need some better tires and alignment. you shouldnt really be having issues with wheel spin on a prepped track with a bolt-on NA setup!

FPenvy · 08-12-2014, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

i would still preload, just not go full throttle immediately when letting off the brake. start lower and ease into full throttle. an auto car doesnt need to worry as much about preloading though... your not dumping a clutch from higher rpm. You are either brake torque launching which is already full preloaded or doing your throttle mash which isnt going to shock the drivetrain like dropping a racing clutch. ultimately it doesnt sound like you dont need to worry about your drivetrain much at all since your 7AT, i dont really imagine anything breaking from occasional drag use.

but still with any track use there's always a chance of failure on some stock parts not designed for it. so i worry sometimes since i really enjoy runnin the car. its a good time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

what it really sounds like is you need some better tires and alignment. you shouldnt really be having issues with wheel spin on a prepped track with a bolt-on NA setup!

car has never been aligned nor have i ever had a problem with alignment.

this year i've had no wheel spin issues on the tracks even though one i dont think is well prepped lol

but i am running RE-11s this year over last year running PSS's. however last year the PSS's delivered my best time. that was also spring running vs summer running. conditions have not been too favorable this season when i've ran. typically higher humidity any night i have time to go lol it's like mother nature knows.

phunk · 08-12-2014, 03:16 PM

sure, but your car doesnt know the difference between the track and street. so it just depends on what kind of driver you are. if you rarely floor it anywhere, then I can understand staying off the track because you dont like abusing the car. but if you floor it everywhere anyway, then its all the same. Especially in a bolt-on NA car.. because in that case, the parts on your car absolutely *were* designed for it.

you dont have to have a problem with an alignment to get better traction out of a different alignment. there are a few ways to get better rear traction in your car, alignment is just one of them. if you were able to solve your traction issues with new tires, than it sounds like you dont need to worry about it. I was just addressing the fact that you said your car is nothing but wheel spin if you try and launch it. i guess you were referring to a previous setup though.

FPenvy · 08-12-2014, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

sure, but your car doesnt know the difference between the track and street. so it just depends on what kind of driver you are. if you rarely floor it anywhere, then I can understand staying off the track because you dont like abusing the car. but if you floor it everywhere anyway, then its all the same.

you dont have to have a problem with an alignment to get better traction out of a different alignment. there are a few ways to get better rear traction in your car, alignment is just one of them. if you were able to solve your traction issues with new tires, than it sounds like you dont need to worry about it. I was just addressing the fact that you said your car is nothing but wheel spin if you try and launch it. i guess you were referring to a previous setup though.

yea i think the PSS's ran a much harder compound than the RE-11's. the RE-11's feel much softer and proven by the fact i never found rubber around my wheel wells like now lol

but i do drive my car a bit harder than most and it's my DD.

for the alignment part i just never seen a want to have it adjusted for drag specific use considering i DD it and as i said before i love driving it hard and corners are plentiful in western PA. same goes for all the other "tricks" people do for ET time. my best time was full weight and full gas with 32psi in the tires. was good enough for the #5 spot but sadly i've been dropped to #7 or 8 now

this is why i'm getting the itch again to reclaim what is mine lol

phunk · 08-12-2014, 03:36 PM

i also see no reason to change your alignment if you have adequate traction now. but on that topic, to just remove some of the negative camber doesnt hurt DD use at all. You wont notice the difference on the street to just remove some of the negative camber. But again, no reason to if you have no wheel spin issues.

Those of us with higher HP have to change our alignments, and full time. Its not just a drag specific alignment adjustment... its a full time adjustment to make the car more usable in all environments. The factory alignment with over 500rwhp makes the car pretty much useless!

08-11-2014, 06:07 PM	#2 (permalink)
Super Werty Track Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: AZ Posts: 668 Drives: '13 Sport Rep Power: 13	be careful...you might make all these changes to get it to hook, and when it does hook... something will break lol FPenvy and GSS138 like this. __________________ The Build

08-11-2014, 06:23 PM	#7 (permalink)
Arrvaxx A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Whore Island, MN Posts: 1,243 Drives: 40th F.I. Twin Turbo Rep Power: 19	Haha. That's ok. She likes it rough. Besides scars make everything sexier. But good thing to bring up. Luckily for me I would not be stck with a garage paperweight if something went wrong. But not everyone can afford to take risks with their cars so words of caution much appreciated. __________________ 2010 370Z 40th Anniversary (#480 born 1/19/2010) Fast Intentions Twin Turbo \| Varis Arising II \| Limited Edition Recaro Sportster \| Tuned by Specialty Z \| 604hp 525 torque @14lbs boost on 100 octane

08-12-2014, 02:18 PM	#8 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,669 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974724	I also have the whiteline diff bushings. I busted my rear-most mount the time I went to the track, so I swapped them in. The only time I ever really get wheel hop is in the rain. I think I got some in 1 of my passes at the track. I only brought up wheel hop because its an axle buster... I dont think its a regular problem, just wanted to mention to let off if you happen to get it. with an auto trans car it is far easier to preload the drivetrain before launch without even thinking about it. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

08-12-2014, 02:36 PM	#10 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,669 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974724	i would still preload, just not go full throttle immediately when letting off the brake. start lower and ease into full throttle. an auto car doesnt need to worry as much about preloading though... your not dumping a clutch from higher rpm. You are either brake torque launching which is already full preloaded or doing your throttle mash which isnt going to shock the drivetrain like dropping a racing clutch. ultimately it doesnt sound like you dont need to worry about your drivetrain much at all since your 7AT, i dont really imagine anything breaking from occasional drag use. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

08-12-2014, 02:40 PM	#11 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,669 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974724	what it really sounds like is you need some better tires and alignment. you shouldnt really be having issues with wheel spin on a prepped track with a bolt-on NA setup! __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

08-12-2014, 03:16 PM	#13 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,669 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974724	sure, but your car doesnt know the difference between the track and street. so it just depends on what kind of driver you are. if you rarely floor it anywhere, then I can understand staying off the track because you dont like abusing the car. but if you floor it everywhere anyway, then its all the same. Especially in a bolt-on NA car.. because in that case, the parts on your car absolutely were designed for it. you dont have to have a problem with an alignment to get better traction out of a different alignment. there are a few ways to get better rear traction in your car, alignment is just one of them. if you were able to solve your traction issues with new tires, than it sounds like you dont need to worry about it. I was just addressing the fact that you said your car is nothing but wheel spin if you try and launch it. i guess you were referring to a previous setup though. FPenvy and Mitco39 like this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph Last edited by phunk; 08-12-2014 at 03:23 PM.

08-12-2014, 03:36 PM	#15 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,669 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974724	i also see no reason to change your alignment if you have adequate traction now. but on that topic, to just remove some of the negative camber doesnt hurt DD use at all. You wont notice the difference on the street to just remove some of the negative camber. But again, no reason to if you have no wheel spin issues. Those of us with higher HP have to change our alignments, and full time. Its not just a drag specific alignment adjustment... its a full time adjustment to make the car more usable in all environments. The factory alignment with over 500rwhp makes the car pretty much useless! FPenvy likes this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

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