Time for the 10s.

wstar

VDC/TCS is pretty easy to disable fully. Remove the Bosch yaw sensor that's underneath the cup holder in the center console. It *is* valid to say one should learn to control wheel slip with your inputs (feet/hands); that is part of drag racing.

At the low speeds you're caring about here, the only way to gain more mechanical traction is with wider tires, stickier rubber, suspension changes, and/or more weight in the trunk.

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Arrvaxx

I was referring to people that would reply with -only- 'Learn to drive' crap. I'm just saying that I do not believe that getting to the 10s is all about the driver. That was my real point.

Although if any one does have a professional drag friend let me know. Once I get this all worked out I would love to put the car in the hands of someone that does 1/4s for a living-ish.

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Mitco39

ET is ALL about the driver and the control of his car in the first few seconds of the run, Trap speed is about the power your putting down. For example I ran a 12.7 at 121mph up here. My speeds are in the ballpark of everyone else, but my time sucks because of the way my car is setup and my crappy launch.

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GSS138

There is a good post on here by someone that describes the rear camber problem with our car when weight is transferred to the rear. He mentions doing a burn out, and then measuring the width of the tire mark. It will indicate how much of a contact patch you have with the ground. He basically proved to himself that a good portion of the rear tires was not touching the ground due to too much negative camber.

The cure for something like this(besides building new control arms) include:

Way stiffer springs in the rear. Probably want to be running 12K+ springs in the rear.

Corner Balance the car, and as mentioned, raised the rear to distribute the weight and get it over the tires. Think about the drag cars you see on TV. Driver in the rear, all the weight possible over the rear tires.

suspension should be setup 40/60 on your shock travel, 40% for compression travel 60% for rebound.

Smaller front tires, less friction up front. Swap em at the track if need be.

You need weight over the rear tires to increase static load, this is accomplished by raising the ride height of the rear coilovers. If you are on stock suspension or even just lowering springs, it's not going to cut it.

Once the weight is over the rear tires, need to keep the rear arms from moving and cambering the tires out, you do this by using stiffer springs in the rear, and then dialing in the rebound.

EDIT: the other single biggest thing you could do would be installing a proper differential.

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brancky3

Good point... I ran a 12.7@110mph in my old Audi A4, a 11mph difference in trap speed is HUGE.

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