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I really wish I had more seat time in my old Z. My run of 11.85 @ 119mph was literally my first run and only pulled a 1.9 60'. I
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I really wish I had more seat time in my old Z. My run of 11.85 @ 119mph was literally my first run and only pulled a 1.9 60'. I can't believe there hasn't been much progression since, as all those times were there almost 3 years ago.
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#2 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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#3 (permalink) | ||
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A True Z Fanatic
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it's still drag related based on me wanting to do all of this and more to a blank slate. just wnat my DD Z and my drag only Z
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still cant believe i pulled a 1.95 60' NA and with about only 60% left on street tires lol Quote:
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#4 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I ran a miserable 11.6 last year when I was at 525rwhp, I had 2.0 60's and one really high 1.9. Shifting into 5th at the very end sucks and hurts the ET a little because you dont really even get to use the gear, you just shift cause you are at redline.
I was set to 0.75* negative camber I believe at the time, lowered on H&R springs, factory shocks. 315 toyo drag radials on 18". If you want to not worry about traction, put stock 350z non brembo (rear) brakes on and cut the dust shield... now you can fit 15" wheels and slicks. a bonus here is that you can run a 28" tire and this should prevent 5th gear from coming up before the 1/4 To do 10s on drag radials is going to mean raising the suspension to stock height or more to get out of the extreme compression camber swing, and stiffening the heck out of it. I would raise the front too... keeping the front low is going to take weight off the rear and you need any weight you can get since you need to stiffen out compression/squat
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Last edited by phunk; 08-11-2014 at 02:43 PM. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Also, you bring up another item i was wonering about...18 or 19s? I would think 19s are harder to spin but not sure if they hurt your time for other reasons.
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2010 370Z 40th Anniversary (#480 born 1/19/2010)
Fast Intentions Twin Turbo | Varis Arising II | Limited Edition Recaro Sportster | Tuned by Specialty Z | 604hp 525 torque @14lbs boost on 100 octane |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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More sidewall is better for drag racing... that means smaller wheels or taller tires or ideally both. 19s will spin easier and also more likely to bust your axles. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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#9 (permalink) |
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What you want the car to do coming out of the hole is weight transfer to the rear. If you have adjustable shocks in the front. You want them set full soft on rebound, and full stiff on compression. What this does is let the front come up quicker, and keeps it from settling down too soon. And a stiff springs helps too.
On the Z. You want to have the compression full stiff. This keeps it from squating, and changing camber. Stiffer springs here too. When I used to drag raced my 440 Dart. I ran 90/10 shocks in the front, and 50/50 shocks in the rear. The front would pop up like right now.
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#10 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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ill try and dig up the timeslips. i believe it was low, on the 11.6 pass i actually missed 5th gear and just coasted across. I *believe* it was a 119 and my other passes were 122-123.
Im curious to go back now. I have the 28" slicks and 15" wheels and small 350z rear brakes. Justin has the 350z down at Dynosty getting the new turbo setup and haltech tuned by Hal there, sometime in the next week will take it over to the local Dynojet and see what its making and I figure I will put my Z on again and make sure it is where I left it and then take them both to the track. Between the higher power I am at now, and the 28s, I am rather confident.
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Last edited by phunk; 08-11-2014 at 03:00 PM. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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That doesnt make sense... if Mr FR bends his legs and lowers down, its going to put more weight on FR and RL and take weight off RR. The weight will pivot off FR and RL and lower down on FL, raising up on RR. Just like when you are carrying a couch up or down the stairs.. the guy on the bottom is holding most of the weight.
Lowering the front of your car will take static weight off the rear. This car isnt like a solid rear axle dragster. We want static rear weight high, but rear load/compression low to avoid camber. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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with all this talk of 4 guys bending over i may have to leave the room.....
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#13 (permalink) |
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Phunk you are right as well. And maybe my model of the 4 guys holding the pallet is not good.
Instead. Let's image 4 girls from the Swedish Bikini team holding you up standing on top of the Ark Of The covenant from Raiders of the Lost Ark. IT IS THEIR JOB TO MAKE SURE THE ARK STAYS PERFECTLY LEVEL! The swimsuit model on the front left corner, is getting tired,so she bends her knees just a little bit. She stops pushing up just a little bit. the weight on the other corners is going to increase a little bit.-but mostly is going to affect her cross weight-the rear right corner. Now that is much different than if both of the two Bikine Models holding up the front, just let go completely. In that case-theoretically, all weight would have to be transferred to the two rear set of tits(if they don't want the friggin Ark to touch the ground). However what could also happen, is that when the FL bikini model stops pushing up and bends over, the other girls sense this, and they stop pushing up too. Eventually they all just give up and the focking Ark of the Covenant is laying in the middle of the road. Fortunately we have a frame on the car. So if the FL is lowered say 1/4" what really ends up happening is that corner sort of becomes a Bikini model and that 15-20 extra pounds gets distributed to the other 3 b1tches because they all are secured with metal beams to each other.
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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5. Last edited by GSS138; 08-11-2014 at 03:53 PM. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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#15 (permalink) | |
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I hate to subject you to this level of nerd but this video is pretty solid: corner balance a car - Bing Videos
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