Time for the 10s.

phunk · 08-11-2014, 02:40 PM

I ran a miserable 11.6 last year when I was at 525rwhp, I had 2.0 60's and one really high 1.9. Shifting into 5th at the very end sucks and hurts the ET a little because you dont really even get to use the gear, you just shift cause you are at redline.

I was set to 0.75* negative camber I believe at the time, lowered on H&R springs, factory shocks. 315 toyo drag radials on 18".

If you want to not worry about traction, put stock 350z non brembo (rear) brakes on and cut the dust shield... now you can fit 15" wheels and slicks. a bonus here is that you can run a 28" tire and this should prevent 5th gear from coming up before the 1/4

To do 10s on drag radials is going to mean raising the suspension to stock height or more to get out of the extreme compression camber swing, and stiffening the heck out of it. I would raise the front too... keeping the front low is going to take weight off the rear and you need any weight you can get since you need to stiffen out compression/squat

Mitco39 · 08-11-2014, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I ran a miserable 11.6 last year when I was at 525rwhp, I had 2.0 60's and one really high 1.9. Shifting into 5th at the very end sucks and hurts the ET a little because you dont really even get to use the gear, you just shift cause you are at redline.

I was set to 0.75* negative camber I believe at the time, lowered on H&R springs, factory shocks. 315 toyo drag radials on 18".

If you want to not worry about traction, put stock 350z non brembo (rear) brakes on and cut the dust shield... now you can fit 15" wheels and slicks. a bonus here is that you can run a 28" tire and this should prevent 5th gear from coming up before the 1/4

To do 10s on drag radials is going to mean raising the suspension to stock height or more to get out of the extreme compression camber swing, and stiffening the heck out of it. I would raise the front too... keeping the front low is going to take weight off the rear and you need any weight you can get since you need to stiffen out compression/squat

What was your trap speed at Charles?

Arrvaxx · 08-11-2014, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I ran a miserable 11.6 last year when I was at 525rwhp, I had 2.0 60's and one really high 1.9. Shifting into 5th at the very end sucks and hurts the ET a little because you dont really even get to use the gear, you just shift cause you are at redline.

I was set to 0.75* negative camber I believe at the time, lowered on H&R springs, factory shocks. 315 toyo drag radials on 18".

If you want to not worry about traction, put stock 350z non brembo (rear) brakes on and cut the dust shield... now you can fit 15" wheels and slicks. a bonus here is that you can run a 28" tire and this should prevent 5th gear from coming up before the 1/4

To do 10s on drag radials is going to mean raising the suspension to stock height or more to get out of the extreme compression camber swing, and stiffening the heck out of it. I would raise the front too... keeping the front low is going to take weight off the rear and you need any weight you can get since you need to stiffen out compression/squat

Any idea what the widest you can go without tsking off the stocks?

Also, you bring up another item i was wonering about...18 or 19s? I would think 19s are harder to spin but not sure if they hurt your time for other reasons.

phunk · 08-11-2014, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arrvaxx

Any idea what the widest you can go without tsking off the stocks?

Also, you bring up another item i was wonering about...18 or 19s? I would think 19s are harder to spin but not sure if they hurt your time for other reasons.

I am not sure how wide of tires the stock wheels fit. Just remember that with all the camber, the extra tire isnt on the pavement anyway. A car with a better suspension could go 9s on my 315 drag radials.

More sidewall is better for drag racing... that means smaller wheels or taller tires or ideally both. 19s will spin easier and also more likely to bust your axles.

FPenvy · 08-12-2014, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I am not sure how wide of tires the stock wheels fit. Just remember that with all the camber, the extra tire isnt on the pavement anyway. A car with a better suspension could go 9s on my 315 drag radials.

More sidewall is better for drag racing... that means smaller wheels or taller tires or ideally both. 19s will spin easier and also more likely to bust your axles.

i was at one point buying 315 19" mickey thompsons to go on my OEM rays but then thought about this exact thing lol

Rusty · 08-12-2014, 09:18 AM

What you want the car to do coming out of the hole is weight transfer to the rear. If you have adjustable shocks in the front. You want them set full soft on rebound, and full stiff on compression. What this does is let the front come up quicker, and keeps it from settling down too soon. And a stiff springs helps too.

On the Z. You want to have the compression full stiff. This keeps it from squating, and changing camber. Stiffer springs here too.

When I used to drag raced my 440 Dart. I ran 90/10 shocks in the front, and 50/50 shocks in the rear. The front would pop up like right now.

08-11-2014, 02:40 PM	#1 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,669 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974724	I ran a miserable 11.6 last year when I was at 525rwhp, I had 2.0 60's and one really high 1.9. Shifting into 5th at the very end sucks and hurts the ET a little because you dont really even get to use the gear, you just shift cause you are at redline. I was set to 0.75* negative camber I believe at the time, lowered on H&R springs, factory shocks. 315 toyo drag radials on 18". If you want to not worry about traction, put stock 350z non brembo (rear) brakes on and cut the dust shield... now you can fit 15" wheels and slicks. a bonus here is that you can run a 28" tire and this should prevent 5th gear from coming up before the 1/4 To do 10s on drag radials is going to mean raising the suspension to stock height or more to get out of the extreme compression camber swing, and stiffening the heck out of it. I would raise the front too... keeping the front low is going to take weight off the rear and you need any weight you can get since you need to stiffen out compression/squat DEpointfive0, Mitco39, GSS138 and 1 others like this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph Last edited by phunk; 08-11-2014 at 02:43 PM.

08-12-2014, 09:18 AM	#6 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,449 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	What you want the car to do coming out of the hole is weight transfer to the rear. If you have adjustable shocks in the front. You want them set full soft on rebound, and full stiff on compression. What this does is let the front come up quicker, and keeps it from settling down too soon. And a stiff springs helps too. On the Z. You want to have the compression full stiff. This keeps it from squating, and changing camber. Stiffer springs here too. When I used to drag raced my 440 Dart. I ran 90/10 shocks in the front, and 50/50 shocks in the rear. The front would pop up like right now. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Long time member, first time poster - Finally bought a Z	Shoemanfoo	New 370Z Owner	4	02-24-2014 05:00 PM
Long time admirer first time owner	Jersey370Z	New Forum Member	9	03-18-2013 10:50 AM
Does anyone's transmission clunk from time to time when pushing the clutch in??	chitown1863	Engine & Drivetrain	21	04-13-2010 08:22 AM
Long time Lurker...first time poster	cuzzinz	New Forum Member	5	01-26-2010 01:24 PM
First time owner - long time admirer	ZCarGo	New 370Z Owner	15	03-20-2009 02:25 PM