Time for the 10s.

Arrvaxx

This is related to a question I came up with while laying in bed...yeah my wife is used to me not sleeping.

I was thinking about height and thinking that I should drop the front as low as I can but then I thought about it again and realized that it might be better to lower the rear to get more on the wheels early. Anyone done this or disagree. I don't want to add weight if I can get the same effect messing with the heights.

You think it is that easy DEpointfiveO? If it is then I'm going for the 9s.

I'll have to look at the BC ER setting options and see what I can do. I'll post some thoughts and get everyone's thoughts.

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DEpointfive0

Lol, no, I don't think it's actually that easy, BUT it will be a LOT easier if you buy some camber arms and SPL midlinks (because I know the rears on BCs are true type) and go with 12k+ springs in the rear too, and I bet you'll see times improve dramatically.

At the same time, (in my mind) the goal for boosted cars should be to get the F out of 1st gear too (unless you're on drag radials, even then it might be tricky) or go to the auto pumpkin/gear ratio

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Arrvaxx

That was another question: 4.08 gears offer any advantage here? NOT going to install gear ratios that make street and track a nightmare.

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DEpointfive0

Run spares up front

I highly doubt making the gear ratios more aggressive will help unless you can fit 15" wide slicks

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Arrvaxx

HAHA spares! I love it! I was thinking gerbil exercise wheels but this is a much better option!

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theDreamer

The 2 issues with front wheel setup is the BBK size (best bet is to throw on base brakes for drag days. Second is the spares I don't think are rated above 55mph so trying to do double that might cause some issues.

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DEpointfive0

Its best to throw no brakes on for drag days, lol

And the spares are rated for 55mph for 50 miles. I know many who have gone 100+ and over 500 miles on spares.

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theDreamer

Geez, I would just worry about having that one bad spare and doing 100+ down the track.
Then again, I bet it would be easy to fit some slightly better tires on the spare wheels that can support a faster speed.

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nomodsjk

One advantage the Er's will give you is the easy damper adjustments on the rear struts. All you have to do is pop the hatch and dial the nobs that come up through the rear plastics

Arrvaxx

Really? That easy? Win.

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GSS138

Hey Arvaxx you are thinking in the right direction, but have the wrong idea here I think.

Dropping the front low will actually add more weight to the rear. But dropping the rear will just counter act that.

Think of a suspension as 4 guys holding up a pallet full of dirt on all 4 corners.

FL FR
RL RR

If Mr. FL bends his legs and lowers down. It is going to get "heavier" for everyone else. Especially Mr. RR-his cross partner.

Now imagine that instead, Mr RL and Mr. RR both lift their hands and press the whole thing up. There is now a ton of weight on the rear.

Now imagine that while they have the rear raised in the air. FL and FR in turn both raise, their hands above their head. It's now equally distributed again.

(I am assuming of course these 4 men are clones with equal strength height and arm length.)

The point is you can add weight to the rear, by either lowering the front, or raising the back.

Lower too much, and it's just like doing a squat where you put your a$$ all the way to the floor-it becomes very hard to stand up- and, if your back is bent to much(camber out), you are going to lose the leverage of your legs.


The "Correct" height(if there is one) is this:
Street car-60% of shock travel length exposed(the silver piston thingy) and usable for compression. (makes nice smooth ride)
Road race-50/50 of shock travel length exposed used for compression/Bump (handles a variety of unknowns)
Drag car-40% of shock travel length xposed 40 for compression 60 for rebound (not worried about bumps in the road or ride quality, just want to put the power back on the ground.)

Don't flame me it's not a hard rule, but a good guideline.

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wstar

Just thinking about basic physics with simple objects (as in your earlier example with 4 guys), this doesn't seem right? I realize with a suspension system there's a lot more going on, but think of the extremes with a simple static object: if the rear two guys kept their end 2 feet off the ground, and the front guys raised their end way up in the air (so that the object is now getting close to vertical, but not quite), wouldn't almost all of the weight be in the rear guys' hands at that point?

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GSS138

Yes and I hope my previous post made you laugh hehe. Keep in mind the goal, the car stays perfectly level.

Yes if you lower the front end 12" and raise the rear end 12", then all the weight is going to be on the front. It will be physically impossible for the two rear people to hold up the weight(unless there are giant springs back there with and incredibly stiff frame). This is why just a little bit of preload is good as well, allowing you to adjust corner weights without actually moving the ride height too much. With 50 lbs of preload on the spring when you load it on the perch, you can first set the ride height, then balance. Lot of guys will do the back first, and then tune in the front. The heavier side(our front) will make more dramatic changes throughout.

When you lower one end of the car too far, it's pretty obvious because an unusual amount of weight will be transferred. That's when your roll moment goes out of whack. so you can use that as a measurement or baseline point. It's just like when you take 400 lbs and don't bend your knees on a squat rack. Sure anyone can suspend 400 lbs on their shoulders if they don't dig too deep. Try doing it with with a full knee bend.

Think of the frame of a house, it's job is to distribute equal weight to all four corners. Even if the earth sinks 1" on one side, the frame transfers this weight around. Same with a car. However, if you completely knock out one corner of the house, then you have a real problem.

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