Topgunz - air to air upgrade

TopgunZ · 08-12-2016, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBatt

The car has 42K miles on it. The belt is new that came with the kit so it has less than 1K miles. I'm using a 2.92 pulley on the SC with the larger idler so it has about 80% wrap. All of the other pulleys are the stock Stillen ones. I did pick up a can of the CRC to see if it helps.

Yes, stock cats.

Timing is 15-16 degrees from 3-7K rpm. AFR is 11.5, 8.4 max psi.

Seb is NOT finished with the tune yet so there is probably more power to come with him dialing it in. I'll be doing another log run either this evening or tomorrow. We have been having a bunch of pop up thunderstorms in the afternoon which is quite common for us this time of the year. I may and wait until tomorrow morning when it is cooler and less likely to be wet.

BTW: I did contact Gates about making a 7 rib 109 3/8" belt so that we could use the additional idler on the jackshaft drive AND have the proper width. They can do it but the setup fee is $10K and the minimum order is 100 belts. Ouch!

I think that pressure test will help this along and hopefully you can put the 45* coupler back on.

Nice job on the research of the belt. But yeah, thats not gonna happen.

[QUOTE=Pauly Z;3534984]Damn, I will stick to my 6 rib belt. Been driving the car every other day and have had no issues with it. The only thing I get is no belt slip.

QUOTE]

Sounds like this option is a better way to go even if it is one rib short. I mean, you did pick up a whole psi so it has to be.

TBatt · 08-12-2016, 10:26 AM

I'm going to try the six rib belt too. Ordering it now. Gates K061098

TBatt · 08-13-2016, 11:26 AM

Pauly Z, if you could supply me with the info on the 2 inch pulley and what type of bolt / spacer is needed to use the 6 rib belt, it would be much appreciated.

Did a leak test this morning and when I got to 7 psi i did find one leak. It was at the joint where the 2.75 coupler is trying to clamp down on the 2.5 J pipe. I tightened the crap out of the clamp and got it to stop leaking. So then i took all of my solution back apart to try and get the 45 degree coupler to work. I probably should have just kept it together.

Trying to get the darn 45 degree coupler to work is not working out. From what I have gathered from the pictures posted I need to push the J pipe in as far as it will go in order to keep the coupler from collapsing. If I push the J pipe far enough up into the 45 degree coupler to keep it from collapsing it is then too short to reach the BOV coupler. I just don't understand why you guys can get this to work and I can't. Very frustrating.....

milkcow500 · 08-13-2016, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBatt

Pauly Z, if you could supply me with the info on the 2 inch pulley and what type of bolt / spacer is needed to use the 6 rib belt, it would be much appreciated.

Did a leak test this morning and when I got to 7 psi i did find one leak. It was at the joint where the 2.75 coupler is trying to clamp down on the 2.5 J pipe. I tightened the crap out of the clamp and got it to stop leaking. So then i took all of my solution back apart to try and get the 45 degree coupler to work. I probably should have just kept it together.

Trying to get the darn 45 degree coupler to work is not working out. From what I have gathered from the pictures posted I need to push the J pipe in as far as it will go in order to keep the coupler from collapsing. If I push the J pipe far enough up into the 45 degree coupler to keep it from collapsing it is then too short to reach the BOV coupler. I just don't understand why you guys can get this to work and I can't. Very frustrating.....

I'd like the pulley info as well please.

I understand how annoying it can be since it took me a good 3+ hours to get mine in position. Can you take some pics?

Did you try using hump hose couplers btw?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Pauly Z · 08-13-2016, 01:34 PM

I'm out of town in tampa right now. I will be home tomorrow and will give you the info

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

TBatt · 08-13-2016, 01:36 PM

Sorry but I'm not spending any more time with the 45. I have spent the past four hours trying to get it to work but the J pipe is just way too short to reach.

I'm going back to my original solution which was working. I'm using a 90 degree 2.75 then a a 2.75 to 2.75 coupler to extend the J pipe and then a reducing coupler (2.75 - 2.5) to get to the J pipe which is 2.5. It worked before. The only thing I can think of is that I got an incorrect J pipe.

TBatt · 08-13-2016, 05:00 PM

Just made another run to check on the boost issue and no difference. Looks I have a belt slip issue though. The boost builds pretty linear up to around 6K rpm and then it is flattening out. At 3700 rpm boost is at 1.16 bar (2.32 psi), 5175 rpm 1.31 bar (4.5 psi), 6300 rpm the pressure is at 1.44 bar(6.38 psi), at 6775 rpm it was at 1.48 bar (7.2 psi) and when it reached 6950 rpm the pressure had DROPPED to 1.37 bar (5.37 psi).

I was going to use some of the CRC belt dressing to see if it would help and then the rain came. Looks like it will be here for awhile. If it dries up before dark I'll try the belt dressing otherwise it will have to wait until tomorrow.

BOLIO 671 · 01-11-2017, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBatt

Just made another run to check on the boost issue and no difference. Looks I have a belt slip issue though. The boost builds pretty linear up to around 6K rpm and then it is flattening out. At 3700 rpm boost is at 1.16 bar (2.32 psi), 5175 rpm 1.31 bar (4.5 psi), 6300 rpm the pressure is at 1.44 bar(6.38 psi), at 6775 rpm it was at 1.48 bar (7.2 psi) and when it reached 6950 rpm the pressure had DROPPED to 1.37 bar (5.37 psi).

I was going to use some of the CRC belt dressing to see if it would help and then the rain came. Looks like it will be here for awhile. If it dries up before dark I'll try the belt dressing otherwise it will have to wait until tomorrow.

What formula are you using to convert ur MAP (bar) reading to psi?QA

TopgunZ · 08-14-2016, 08:58 AM

Can you take a pic of the top of the supercharger? If the volute isn't rotated enough then I can see how the pipe would come up short.

And yeah you should not be going negative in higher rpm bands. But with a new belt and the same setup as most I'm not sure how you are getting that amount of slip. I can see how it would stop building boost but loosing that much up top is strange.

TBatt · 08-15-2016, 02:29 PM

Here is the picture you asked for.

I don't think the clocking of the volute can be the problem because the J pipe is at least 5-6 inches too short to work. If I connect it to the BOV coupler it will barely reach the 45, not even enough to get it deep enough to be held on by a clamp much less keeping the 45 open during the bend.

StillenZ84 · 08-15-2016, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBatt

Here is the picture you asked for.

I don't think the clocking of the volute can be the problem because the J pipe is at least 5-6 inches too short to work. If I connect it to the BOV coupler it will barely reach the 45, not even enough to get it deep enough to be held on by a clamp much less keeping the 45 open during the bend.

From the top this is how far my volute is clocked. Looks like yours needs to go another inch or more. That notch on mine is directly in the middle of the casing.

TopgunZ · 08-15-2016, 02:36 PM

No that's the problem. The volute isn't clocked right. Clock it per the instructions sent and it will fit like the rest have fit.

Way up at the top of the L pipe where the coupler is, is the fulcrum of that pipe position. If it is turned off the volute 1 inch then that translates to 5 inches at the connection point to the coupler.

Its like taping a straw to a quarter. Rotate the quarter a half inch and watch the other end of the straw move 10 inches.

It really has to be installed correctly in order for it to work.

TBatt · 08-15-2016, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

No that's the problem. The volute isn't clocked right. Clock it per the instructions sent and it will fit like the rest have fit.

So you are saying that if I clock the volute by about 10 degrees it will make up for six inches of length? Go back and look at the J pipe picture I posted. It is 15 inches long from one end to the other and is about six inches too short to work. Changing the clocking may get me an additional inch but not enough to work. I think the J pipe that I have is too short. Please check the dimension of what I should have.

Right now I am focusing on the belt slip issue. Hopefully Pauly Z can get us the parts list we need to add in the idler and longer belt.

TopgunZ · 08-15-2016, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBatt

So you are saying that if I clock the volute by about 10 degrees it will make up for six inches of length? Go back and look at the J pipe picture I posted. It is 15 inches long from one end to the other and is about six inches too short to work. Changing the clocking may get me an additional inch but not enough to work. I think the J pipe that I have is too short. Please check the dimension of what I should have.

Right now I am focusing on the belt slip issue. Hopefully Pauly Z can get us the parts list we need to add in the idler and longer belt.

10 degrees was just a number is used as a comparison. However, I am saying if you follow the install instructions then it should work. Your clocking is WAY off. Line it up like in the pictures in the work instructions. With the volute aimed straight at the fender like that there is no way for a 45 to geometrically make a 90 degree turn. If the volute is perfectly horizontal, in order for it to go to another object that is below it, it would have to make a 90 degree bend. If the volute is 45 degrees already and you add a 45 degree coupler then it will be able to align with another plane that is below that plane.

I measured my J pipe and it is the exact same length of mine and the other 10 kits that have been installed per instructions and they do not have any problems. Milkcow did have a problem after swapping some things around but he was making 10psi after the shop installed it and i spoke to them on the phone and they never mentioned the coupler kinking once. They did however have the IC brackets on upside down and I have fixed that by marking the direction on the back side of the brackets.

nic370 · 12-21-2016, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

No that's the problem. The volute isn't clocked right. Clock it per the instructions sent and it will fit like the rest have fit.

Way up at the top of the L pipe where the coupler is, is the fulcrum of that pipe position. If it is turned off the volute 1 inch then that translates to 5 inches at the connection point to the coupler.

Its like taping a straw to a quarter. Rotate the quarter a half inch and watch the other end of the straw move 10 inches.

It really has to be installed correctly in order for it to work.

Where do I find these instructions topz I'm just having these issues as we I write this

08-12-2016, 10:26 AM	#2 (permalink)
TBatt Track Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 832 Drives: 2019 GT-R Rep Power: 20170	I'm going to try the six rib belt too. Ordering it now. Gates K061098 __________________ RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

08-13-2016, 11:26 AM	#3 (permalink)
TBatt Track Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 832 Drives: 2019 GT-R Rep Power: 20170	Pauly Z, if you could supply me with the info on the 2 inch pulley and what type of bolt / spacer is needed to use the 6 rib belt, it would be much appreciated. Did a leak test this morning and when I got to 7 psi i did find one leak. It was at the joint where the 2.75 coupler is trying to clamp down on the 2.5 J pipe. I tightened the crap out of the clamp and got it to stop leaking. So then i took all of my solution back apart to try and get the 45 degree coupler to work. I probably should have just kept it together. Trying to get the darn 45 degree coupler to work is not working out. From what I have gathered from the pictures posted I need to push the J pipe in as far as it will go in order to keep the coupler from collapsing. If I push the J pipe far enough up into the 45 degree coupler to keep it from collapsing it is then too short to reach the BOV coupler. I just don't understand why you guys can get this to work and I can't. Very frustrating..... __________________ RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

08-13-2016, 01:34 PM	#5 (permalink)
Pauly Z Base Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Sylvester, Ga. Posts: 197 Drives: '10 370Z 7AT Rep Power: 13	I'm out of town in tampa right now. I will be home tomorrow and will give you the info Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk __________________ Custom Air to Air Stillen SC Setup, CJM S-1S FRS, ID1000 Injectors, Aeromotive 340 Stealth Pump, Test Pipes, Topspeed Exhaust, Z1 Oil Pan Spacer, Swift Springs, Adjustable Rear Camber Arms, 20 and 25mm Spacers, Custom Gauges, and Ecutek

08-13-2016, 05:00 PM	#7 (permalink)
TBatt Track Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 832 Drives: 2019 GT-R Rep Power: 20170	Just made another run to check on the boost issue and no difference. Looks I have a belt slip issue though. The boost builds pretty linear up to around 6K rpm and then it is flattening out. At 3700 rpm boost is at 1.16 bar (2.32 psi), 5175 rpm 1.31 bar (4.5 psi), 6300 rpm the pressure is at 1.44 bar(6.38 psi), at 6775 rpm it was at 1.48 bar (7.2 psi) and when it reached 6950 rpm the pressure had DROPPED to 1.37 bar (5.37 psi). I was going to use some of the CRC belt dressing to see if it would help and then the rain came. Looks like it will be here for awhile. If it dries up before dark I'll try the belt dressing otherwise it will have to wait until tomorrow. __________________ RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! Last edited by TBatt; 08-13-2016 at 05:04 PM.

08-14-2016, 08:58 AM	#9 (permalink)
TopgunZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 2,651 Drives: 06 350Z , 09 370Z MT Rep Power: 6835	Can you take a pic of the top of the supercharger? If the volute isn't rotated enough then I can see how the pipe would come up short. And yeah you should not be going negative in higher rpm bands. But with a new belt and the same setup as most I'm not sure how you are getting that amount of slip. I can see how it would stop building boost but loosing that much up top is strange. __________________ ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM

08-15-2016, 02:36 PM	#12 (permalink)
TopgunZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 2,651 Drives: 06 350Z , 09 370Z MT Rep Power: 6835	No that's the problem. The volute isn't clocked right. Clock it per the instructions sent and it will fit like the rest have fit. Way up at the top of the L pipe where the coupler is, is the fulcrum of that pipe position. If it is turned off the volute 1 inch then that translates to 5 inches at the connection point to the coupler. Its like taping a straw to a quarter. Rotate the quarter a half inch and watch the other end of the straw move 10 inches. It really has to be installed correctly in order for it to work. __________________ ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM Last edited by TopgunZ; 08-15-2016 at 03:44 PM.

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