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Topgunz - air to air upgrade

As many of you know, there is demand for a good solution to the water to air design of the Stillen kit. I have made my own and it is

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Old 02-01-2016, 10:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Topgunz - air to air upgrade

As many of you know, there is demand for a good solution to the water to air design of the Stillen kit. I have made my own and it is working perfect and has put down 527whp on 12psi with E85.

I do not think I need to go into the benefits of going Air to Air since anyone reading this will know just how terrible the water system works. Anything over 9psi is playing with fire. The Air to Air is coming in just above ambient on my setup and I will be utilizing an even bigger intercooler on the presented kit.

I am working on making this kit available for purchase. I am going to send all files to a very reputable party to have them build the components. I am going to test fit the first kit on my car then have it dyno tested. I will post results as soon as possible.


Kit will include:
-New Air filter - Eliminating stillen Y intake and small dual filter design
-Piping from Supercharger to intercooler
-Bypass Valve Mount adapter
-Treadstone Intercooler rated for 720HP
-Intercooler mounting brackets
-All cold side piping and intakes - 2.75" Custom Y pipe with MAF housings - Blow through design will allow computer to see temps unlike current design
-Manifold Block off plate (with gasket maker)
-All silicone couplers and T-bolts
-Vacuum hose
-Installation instructions

Possible Stage 2 kit:
Upgrade to V1 or V2 Ti/Si head unit - Capable of more power than the V3. Will come with all necessary parts to upgrade to this unit.

This kits cost is $1475 shipped. with FREE SHIPPING!!

The hardest part about installing this kit will be taking the aftercooler out of the manifold as this requires the removal and re-installation of the manifold. Other than that it is about as difficult as installing a Stillen Gen3 cold air intake.

EDIT - Can pull out aftercooler and hacksaw it off if you would prefer. No need to take manifold off and put back on.

Here are some pics of the kit installed on both a G and a Z. You can see there are different BPV options as well with this kit. I will help you with what you need.









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Last edited by TopgunZ; 08-14-2017 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 02-01-2016, 10:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you run this by the mods for approval?
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Old 02-01-2016, 10:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopgunZ View Post
As many of you know, there is an immediate demand for a good solution to the water to air design of the Stillen kit. I have made my own and it is working perfect and has put down almost 500whp on 10psi. I will be shooting for 600whp this spring.



I do not think I need to go into the benefits of going Air to Air since anyone reading this will know just how terrible the water system works. Anything over 9psi is playing with fire. There has been a recent study by "Swiss370Z" where he had intake temps coming in at 230F and his water was 203F. In other words, the intake temps are barely being cooled.

Didn't his log also show that the ecu thought that the 230 degree air was 50 something degrees at the maf? No wonder these things pop when you turn up the boost.
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Old 02-01-2016, 11:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Hey topz,

You can get the intercooler out without removing.

I pulled mine out as far I could, about 3".

then wrapped the unit with painters tape so no shavings got back into the manifold.

I used a hack saw, chopped it off and removed it.

used a magnet and vaccum to make sure there was no remaining shavings that stayed behind.
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Old 02-01-2016, 11:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hacking it off is another option and a much easier one. As long as people are ok destroying that little aftercooler then it will save a lot of time and possible headaches. That manifold really does suck to take off and put on due to the lack of bolt access.
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Old 02-01-2016, 11:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Did you run this by the mods for approval?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
Didn't his log also show that the ecu thought that the something degrees at the maf? No wonder these things pop when you turn up the boost.
Seriously.
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Old 02-01-2016, 12:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Didn't his log also show that the ecu thought that the 230 degree air was 50 something degrees at the maf? No wonder these things pop when you turn up the boost.
Yeah. I wonder how much timing it advanced when it should be pulling timing like crazy!
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Old 02-01-2016, 02:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ill take a main bracket, this is to support the charger right?
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Old 02-01-2016, 02:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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ill take a main bracket, this is to support the charger right?
Yes sir.
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Old 02-01-2016, 04:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Super excited for this, hope it all comes together as planned! After seeing Ivo's temp readings at the MAF vs the charge pipe... I'm a bit scared to be running the stock after-heater setup lol

I'm sure a lot of us Stillen guys would love to have this as an option !

sidenote : if it's easier to just chop out the stillen aftercooler core I'd be all for it!
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Old 02-01-2016, 04:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
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its insane, now we all know why this kit takes out engines lol.
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You can count me in on the Main bracket anti-flex adapter!
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Old 02-01-2016, 08:59 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopgunZ View Post
There has been a recent study by "Swiss370Z" where he had intake temps coming in at 230F and his water was 203F. In other words, the intake temps are barely being cooled.
A short feedback from me

The water temperature of 203F is the cooling water temperature of the engine!
Not the "STILLEN" cooling circuit!

The water in the return pipe of the Plenum Intercoller is only slightly heated!
About 10C warmer than the air outside!
I'll check with a sensor in the water tank next time...

Exact dates will follow after installation of additional Air- Sensor (behind the Plenum Intercooler).

BTW:
If I could, I would go the way also ... A2A

Keep up this good Work Guys
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Old 02-01-2016, 09:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Must have gotten that from the accent.

That's still 50 degrees over ambient. So if ambient was 90 degrees you are still sitting at 140f. If that aftercooler was 100% efficient, which it isnt even close to, the temps would come in at the coolest of 140f. Since the charge is 230f I'm guessing it still enters the lower plenum at least around 170f, robbing you of power and not pulling any timing.
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:17 AM   #15 (permalink)
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TopgunZ, are you sure you're working all this out correctly and accurately?

Last edited by Optimiser; 02-02-2016 at 06:22 AM.
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