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-   -   Topgunz - air to air upgrade (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/110925-topgunz-air-air-upgrade.html)

TopgunZ 02-01-2016 10:20 AM

Topgunz - air to air upgrade
 
1 Attachment(s)
As many of you know, there is demand for a good solution to the water to air design of the Stillen kit. These kits will bring in more power with much better responsiveness and will keep your motor alive no matter how much power you throw at it. The kits make around 475whp on 91 octane, 495whp on 93 and over 550whp on E85 if you run 11psi. This can be achieved by upgrading to the Si impeller and utilizing the 9psi stillen pulley or a 3.0 supercharger pulley.

I do not think I need to go into the benefits of going Air to Air since anyone reading this will know just how terrible the water system works. Anything over 9psi is playing with fire. The Air to Air is coming in just above ambient on my setup.



Kit will include:
-New Air filter - Eliminating stillen Y intake and small dual filter design
-Piping from Supercharger to intercooler
-Bypass Valve Mount adapter
-Treadstone Intercooler rated for 720HP
-Intercooler mounting brackets
-All cold side piping and intakes - 2.75" Custom Y pipe with MAF housings - Blow through design will allow computer to see temps unlike current design
-Manifold Block off plate (with gasket maker)
-All silicone couplers and T-bolts
-Vacuum hose
-Installation instructions

Tial Upgrade
- Tial QRJ (pick your color)
- Tial Adapter pipe with flange welded in
- Tial QRJ Intake Flange
- Tial QRJ Exhaust Flange
- 2 x Couplers
- 2 x T bolt Clamps

Possible Stage 2 kit:
Upgrade to V1 or V2 Ti/Si head unit - Capable of more power than the V3. Will come with all necessary parts to upgrade to this unit.

This kits cost is $1475 shipped. with FREE SHIPPING!!
With the Tial upgrade it is $1750. This is a MUST have in my opinion unless you already have a bypass valve that is bigger than 1" in/out.


The hardest part about installing this kit will be taking the aftercooler out of the manifold as this requires the removal and re-installation of the manifold. Other than that it is about as difficult as installing a Stillen Gen3 cold air intake.

EDIT - Can pull out aftercooler and hacksaw it off if you would prefer. No need to take manifold off and put back on.

Here are some pics of the kit installed on both a G and a Z. You can see there are different BPV options as well with this kit. I will help you with what you need.

http://www.the370z.com/members/topgu...0354608737.jpg



http://www.the370z.com/members/topgu...3-img-2266.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/topgu...939f2345b6.jpg

JARblue 02-01-2016 10:26 AM

Did you run this by the mods for approval? :twocents:

Chuck33079 02-01-2016 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 3402056)
As many of you know, there is an immediate demand for a good solution to the water to air design of the Stillen kit. I have made my own and it is working perfect and has put down almost 500whp on 10psi. I will be shooting for 600whp this spring.



I do not think I need to go into the benefits of going Air to Air since anyone reading this will know just how terrible the water system works. Anything over 9psi is playing with fire. There has been a recent study by "Swiss370Z" where he had intake temps coming in at 230F and his water was 203F. In other words, the intake temps are barely being cooled.


Didn't his log also show that the ecu thought that the 230 degree air was 50 something degrees at the maf? No wonder these things pop when you turn up the boost.

EVOHUNTER 02-01-2016 11:03 AM

Hey topz,

You can get the intercooler out without removing.

I pulled mine out as far I could, about 3".

then wrapped the unit with painters tape so no shavings got back into the manifold.

I used a hack saw, chopped it off and removed it.

used a magnet and vaccum to make sure there was no remaining shavings that stayed behind.

TopgunZ 02-01-2016 11:48 AM

Hacking it off is another option and a much easier one. As long as people are ok destroying that little aftercooler then it will save a lot of time and possible headaches. That manifold really does suck to take off and put on due to the lack of bolt access.

TerribleONE 02-01-2016 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3402062)
Did you run this by the mods for approval? :twocents:

:iagree:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 3402087)
Didn't his log also show that the ecu thought that the something degrees at the maf? No wonder these things pop when you turn up the boost.

Seriously. :eek:

TopgunZ 02-01-2016 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 3402087)
Didn't his log also show that the ecu thought that the 230 degree air was 50 something degrees at the maf? No wonder these things pop when you turn up the boost.

Yeah. I wonder how much timing it advanced when it should be pulling timing like crazy!

EVOHUNTER 02-01-2016 02:38 PM

ill take a main bracket, this is to support the charger right?

TopgunZ 02-01-2016 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EVOHUNTER (Post 3402282)
ill take a main bracket, this is to support the charger right?

Yes sir. :tup:

x2o 02-01-2016 04:05 PM

Super excited for this, hope it all comes together as planned! After seeing Ivo's temp readings at the MAF vs the charge pipe... I'm a bit scared to be running the stock after-heater setup lol

I'm sure a lot of us Stillen guys would love to have this as an option !

sidenote : if it's easier to just chop out the stillen aftercooler core I'd be all for it!

EVOHUNTER 02-01-2016 04:30 PM

its insane, now we all know why this kit takes out engines lol.

JWillis72 02-01-2016 07:54 PM

You can count me in on the Main bracket anti-flex adapter!

swiss370Z 02-01-2016 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 3402056)
There has been a recent study by "Swiss370Z" where he had intake temps coming in at 230F and his water was 203F. In other words, the intake temps are barely being cooled.

A short feedback from me

The water temperature of 203F is the cooling water temperature of the engine!
Not the "STILLEN" cooling circuit!

The water in the return pipe of the Plenum Intercoller is only slightly heated!
About 10C warmer than the air outside!
I'll check with a sensor in the water tank next time...

Exact dates will follow after installation of additional Air- Sensor (behind the Plenum Intercooler).

BTW:
If I could, I would go the way also ... A2A :owned:

Keep up this good Work Guys :tup::tup:

TopgunZ 02-01-2016 09:32 PM

Must have gotten that from the accent. :icon17:

That's still 50 degrees over ambient. So if ambient was 90 degrees you are still sitting at 140f. If that aftercooler was 100% efficient, which it isnt even close to, the temps would come in at the coolest of 140f. Since the charge is 230f I'm guessing it still enters the lower plenum at least around 170f, robbing you of power and not pulling any timing.

Optimiser 02-02-2016 06:17 AM

TopgunZ, are you sure you're working all this out correctly and accurately? :stirthepot:


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