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First track experience today ! Some good, some really bad

Originally Posted by travisjb Re coilovers, yes, definitely... in fact, here's my current shopping list: 1. oil cooler... A BIG ONE ! maybe central 20 Yes to the oil cooler,

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Old 02-01-2009, 11:08 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travisjb View Post
Re coilovers, yes, definitely... in fact, here's my current shopping list:
Quote:
1. oil cooler... A BIG ONE ! maybe central 20
Yes to the oil cooler, just get something that works, doesn't have to be $2000 to work.

Quote:
2. swap fluids for higher heat ones... ATE for brakes... trans ? diff ? 80-20 water to anti freeze... Pure Power Motor Oil (thanks DDM !)
Absolutely, do your brake fluid too while youre doing fluids

Quote:
3. HP... intake kit, pulley kit, test pipes, cat-back (agency power)
Sounds good, but the pulley kit mod isn't really to gain HP.

Quote:
5. enkei wheels + Toyo R888s... likely 18x9.5 and 18x10.5 with 255s and 305s
Can't go wrong with the R888's. I'd go 265 in the fronts though. Did you get much understeer on the track? Which enkeis are you looking at? RPF1's wont fit over the stock brakes in 18's, at least I really dont think so...

Also so you know, the R888's are good because they will last more than a few track days...however if its performance you are after...Hoosier R6's is 100% the way to go...

Quote:
6. Hawk + brake pads
Are you talking about the Hawk HP+ ? Those are pretty good. I might start with them too.

Quote:
4. possible rear dif cooler... trans cooler
Yeah that's not a bad Idea at all.

Quote:
8. swap battery for oddyssey pc680


Quote:
9. remove another 200 pounds... already pulled 100 lbs of plastic/spare tire... try to shift weight to rear
Aim for 50/50.

Quote:
10. racing seat + harness (can i do 6-pt w/o roll cage ?)
More like do you NEED a 6 point? Honestly, probably not. A normal harness will do IMO.

Quote:
11. continue race car mods... full roll cage, fire supression
If you're doing that then scrap your first 10 points lol, just go full race.


I like everything you are doing. The only stuff you need not forget and should actually be near the top of your list is upgrading your braking system a bit. RBF600 brake fluid, Hawk HP+ pads and DBA 5000 rotors. Stainless brake lines would be highly suggested as well, I currently have BFGoodridge ones and they do the job.

Other than that, on!
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:15 PM   #32 (permalink)
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You forgot to remove the window regulators, air conditioning, speakers, any and all insulation, replace all glass with lexon....

haha just kidding. Sounds like you have your head set for a nice little track car. I like your list, I would only suggest maybe some SS braided brake lines for better bite.
Also, 6-point harness and a racing seat with no roll cage has always been a big no no based on what I have been told. Were the stock seats not supportive? Or are you just looking to shed that extra 20lbs/seat?
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Old 02-02-2009, 12:27 AM   #33 (permalink)
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more great feedback, both of you, thanks

rcz... i'm 99% sure I'm going with r888s b/c of the cost and my desire to keep it semi-street legal for a while... no trailer/tow vehicle yet... one step at a time !... reason for 6-pt is that I would like to re-use the schroth harness from my boxster... suppose that will have to wait until i get farther along (roll cage etc)... not sure which enkei's, will let you know later... yup, HP+s... I saw you mentioned the DBA5000s in another thread... somewhat pricey... why are they so much better ? please tell me more, thanks

namir... i did remove the windshield wipers, headliner, and all the plastic and insulation starting behind the seats already! the side airbags and related gear will be goneso soon... the rest stays for now! ... agree with braided brake lines, good add, I'll do that... yes, i'm used to more support that what i get from the stock seats and 3pt belt - I'll likely ditch the passenger seat and swap the drivers for a bride cuga or other... also wondering if i can re-use my porsche GT3 seat (Porsche | Performance | Porsche GT3 Seats)... i realize it is lame to have a porsche seat in a nissan, but i like this way this one feels... in any event, i'll make the seat decision later
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Old 02-02-2009, 06:49 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Good choice on the tire, Rbf600 for fluid and braided lines are a good first step. I wouldn't bother with the disc just yet. It is widely accepted in the S2k realm that stock discs are usually the most cost effective solution (don't know if this is the case with the 370z as it is a heavy vehicle). I've spent a lot on different discs and ended up going back to stock and replacing more frequently.

I wouldn't run a harness without at least a roll bar in the car. It can be done, but its just not safe without it. I've been to a few tracks where this actually a rule.

Finally if you do end up getting a harness make sure you know how to strap in or else: ScienceDirect - Injury Extra : Scrotal injury following restrained impact: A risk of misnavigation
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Old 02-02-2009, 08:45 AM   #35 (permalink)
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OMFG ! that poor guy...

... so the harness straps need to be snug and free of ball sack... WILL NOT FORGET !
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Old 02-02-2009, 10:25 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Ok, so I have a few little bits to add...

First and foremost DO NOT run a racing harness without roll over protection. If you are planning on getting a BRIDE Cuga, that will work fine with the stock belts until you get a roll cage. If you roll your car and the roof caves in, the stock belts allow your body to twist and move to take the force of the roof coming down on you. Harnesses do the opposite, and all of that force will be taken on by your neck, which can't handle much.

Second, your weight balance issues comes partly from you removing 100 lbs. of weight. Most of this weight came from the rear, making it an uneven weight distribution from the start. Also, without alignment adjustments, your rear tires were probably a little on the positive camber side because of the higher ride height due to the weight reduction. This problem amplifies itself under braking when even more weight is transferred off the rear onto the front. When you switch to the Odyssey PC680 I suggest buying a battery relocation kit along with it and moving the battery to the rear of the car.

Toyo R888s are an excellent tire, but the sizes you listed are WAY too staggered for a front engine car. Since you are coming from a Porsche I will forgive you . If you are going 305 in the rear, I would go 285 up front.

Also, feel free to PM me if you want to get more in depth about all of this or if you need price quotes on parts.
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Old 02-02-2009, 11:05 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Man, you guys are great !

I'm clear on the no harness, unless you have a roll cage rule, thanks for reinforcing the point for my benefit and anyone else reading this thread

I was probably being overzealous in pulling weight at this early stage, given that you're right it mostly came from the rear half (except engine cover + wipers!)... would appreciate any advice on how to get more weight out of the front without compromising safety or removing a/c or windows... e.g., I will definitely pursue the battery relo kit

Thanks for the advice on tire sizes... assuming my offset places the wheel at its outermost point relative to fenders, do you think 285s will rub in the front ? should i bring it down to 265/285 ?

I will definitely refer my local shop to you as possible source for parts

Thanks again
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Old 02-02-2009, 11:24 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travisjb View Post
Man, you guys are great !

I'm clear on the no harness, unless you have a roll cage rule, thanks for reinforcing the point for my benefit and anyone else reading this thread

I was probably being overzealous in pulling weight at this early stage, given that you're right it mostly came from the rear half (except engine cover + wipers!)... would appreciate any advice on how to get more weight out of the front without compromising safety or removing a/c or windows... e.g., I will definitely pursue the battery relo kit

Thanks for the advice on tire sizes... assuming my offset places the wheel at its outermost point relative to fenders, do you think 285s will rub in the front ? should i bring it down to 265/285 ?

I will definitely refer my local shop to you as possible source for parts

Thanks again
Thanks!

Unfortunately taking weight off the front is much harder than it is in the rear. Relocating the battery is a big step in the right direction. Another way is swapping the stock cats with test pipes or high flow cats which will save 10-12 pounds off the front. The other unfortunate thing is that adding oil capacity and an oil cooler, will then put some more of that weight back onto the front. Unfortunately I can't think of any other relatively easy ways to take weight off the nose while maintaining structural integrity and all of the creature comforts.

As for the tire sizes, I have already fit the 295/30/18 tires onto the front of the 370Z just fine . An 18"x 9.5" front with a +27 to +30 range should fit the 285s just fine.
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Old 02-02-2009, 11:32 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Good to know re tires... lesson learned from prior car is that bigger front tires = more stress on power steering pump, so I'll be interested to find out how that holds up with 285s/295s

I wonder if the oil cooler could be placed in the mid/rear somewhere? probably not a lot of weight, but every bit helps I suppose
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Old 02-02-2009, 11:35 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travisjb View Post
Good to know re tires... lesson learned from prior car is that bigger front tires = more stress on power steering pump, so I'll be interested to find out how that holds up with 285s/295s

I wonder if the oil cooler could be placed in the mid/rear somewhere? probably not a lot of weight, but every bit helps I suppose
Yes it is more stress on the power steering but it should be fine. The stock power steering cooler on the 370Z is the same as the Nismo power steering cooler that you can buy aftermarket for the 350Z. I have run 295 Hoosiers, up front on my time attack 350Z with the Nismo power steering cooler without any problems whatsoever and it isn't even in direct airflow like the 370Z one is.

Placing the oil cooler near the back would be fine, but you may have to run a pump to help get the fluids to travel all that distance.
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Old 02-02-2009, 12:24 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Hey Mike, how about developing a battery relocation kit for the trunk? Cables, battery and some sort of bracket to hold it down to something.

Travis - The DBA's are pricey, but that is because they are some of the best Rotors you can buy. The 5000's have a lot of technology built into them, not to mention they are two piece. If you want to look at another less pricey, but also very good rotor, check out Performance Friction 2-Piece rotors. There's always StopTech and the rest of the common choices like endless, rotora, APRacing, etc...

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Old 02-02-2009, 12:29 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I agree one of the best threads I have came across in a very long time. Please keep it going. We are learning alot.
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Old 02-02-2009, 12:33 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCZ View Post
Hey Mike, how about developing a battery relocation kit for the trunk? Cables, battery and some sort of bracket to hold it down to something.
I have given though to it already. I already carry Odyssey Batteries so maybe I can put a packaged kit together for you guys.
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Old 02-02-2009, 12:42 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Count me in on battery relo kit !

Agree, this is a really helpful thread ! Hopefully other members get a chance to read it... would it make sense to 'sticky' ?
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Old 02-02-2009, 02:33 PM   #45 (permalink)
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