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Originally Posted by jwick Gotta get me one of those I have a $$$ Fluke. You can get them for like $15.00 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=temp+gun&...l_12ls5k5wo8_e

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Old 02-07-2020, 08:50 PM   #166 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jwick View Post
Gotta get me one of those
I have a $$$ Fluke. You can get them for like $15.00 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=temp+gun&...l_12ls5k5wo8_e
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Old 02-07-2020, 08:57 PM   #167 (permalink)
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You're a newb? Loser!


The catch cans will help in removing blow by oil during the combustion process that can get recycled back into the intake manifold. When this blow by oil gets back into the combustion process, it lowers the octane rating of the fuel, so the catch cans are really just a way to keep the internals a little cleaner and running more efficient.

Power steering fluid boils pretty easy. I switched over to Redline ATF D6 but it will still boil after long stints of hard driving. The cooler is just added insurance. I would keep an eye on yours. If you find it boiling after a few laps, then consider making changes (start with fluid then maybe a new cooler if needed).
Ahh. So itís good hygiene for the car. Makes sense. Iíll look at upgrading. Need the engine to last me a while. Thanks for the help!!
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Old 02-08-2020, 01:37 AM   #168 (permalink)
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On the PS fluid. Do not fill the reservoir to the full line. Keep the fluid at the add line or a little below. When the fluid gets hot. It has to expand. The expanded fluid is forced out of the cap. That's what youe are seeing. You're not really boiling the fluid. It has to get over 600F. The ideal temp is between 175F to 200F. Once over 220F, it starts to break down.
Fair enough. I can't say I've seen a rolling boil in the reservoir. So you're probably right. Definitely hitting breakdown temps though. Is that 220F temp threshold just for stock fluid or even the Redline stuff?

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I'm using the Redline steering fluid, plus the Z1 steering cooler, and keep my level at the add mark. Never had any fluid come out of the cap so far.
Mine spits with the Redline fluid. But it's stock PS cooler.

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Next time you see it. Take a temp gun to it.
I've seen as high as 260F Didn't realize at the time that was as excessive as it seems to be now
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Old 02-11-2020, 01:22 PM   #169 (permalink)
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This is a great thread. I'll be going down a similar route with my track only Z but the mod list you've thrown together is a great starting point! Not gonna lie though, overwhelmed by the amount of reliability mods you've got there... Will need to add some of those parts to my list.

Thanks!
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Old 02-11-2020, 02:13 PM   #170 (permalink)
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This is a great thread. I'll be going down a similar route with my track only Z but the mod list you've thrown together is a great starting point! Not gonna lie though, overwhelmed by the amount of reliability mods you've got there... Will need to add some of those parts to my list.

Thanks!
If you want to see everything installed. Read my thread. Link in my signature.
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Old 02-12-2020, 03:27 AM   #171 (permalink)
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If you want to see every anything installed. Read my thread. Link in my signature.
FTFY
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Old 02-12-2020, 11:47 AM   #172 (permalink)
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Ever since I had my steering rack replaced and the dealer let my PS fluid reservoir go dry, I've had occasional whining from the PS pump. I wasn't planning on doing anything cause I figured worst case scenario is the pump goes out and I get a good arm workout until I replace it.

But I just bought a used pump with 17K miles on it for $100. Figured the price was right.
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Old 02-12-2020, 12:06 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Ever since I had my steering rack replaced and the dealer let my PS fluid reservoir go dry, I've had occasional whining from the PS pump. I wasn't planning on doing anything cause I figured worst case scenario is the pump goes out and I get a good arm workout until I replace it.

But I just bought a used pump with 17K miles on it for $100. Figured the price was right.
LOL, go ahead a replace it now before the pump shells out. If you don't, you will be replacing the pump and the rack and pinion.
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Old 02-12-2020, 12:14 PM   #174 (permalink)
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If you don't, you will be replacing the pump and the rack and pinion.
That's what my buddy told me. And precisely why I went ahead and picked up the replacement. A new pump is over $350 online.
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Old Yesterday, 12:44 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Setting up the final purchase for engine stuff in anticipation of oil pump gear delivery. Ordering the ATI super damper (918584), PS cooler kit (CZP), timing cover gasket and seal kit, water pump (B1010-JK20A), and Gates Racing serpentine belt (K070795RPM).

Any final thoughts? Trying to decide whether to buy a new intake manifold gasket - the original one seems to be in good shape, and I don't really want to pay $30 for a new one.
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Old Yesterday, 01:22 PM   #176 (permalink)
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I've replaced mine before. I think as long as the rubber seal is in decent condition and not cracking, it should be fine.
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Old Yesterday, 01:56 PM   #177 (permalink)
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Any final thoughts? Trying to decide whether to buy a new intake manifold gasket - the original one seems to be in good shape, and I don't really want to pay $30 for a new one.
Get a new one. Vaccum leaks suck.
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Old Yesterday, 02:25 PM   #178 (permalink)
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You've come this far. Why skimp on a 30 dollar gasket here?
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Old Yesterday, 05:18 PM   #179 (permalink)
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lol I hate that logic. It can't be beat
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Old Yesterday, 09:45 PM   #180 (permalink)
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lol I hate that logic. It can't be beat
Sorry dude. I tried to skimp on the last car I built and ended up doing everything twice. If a piece is off, replace the gasket. I hate doing things twice.

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