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Original Post: ( Click to show/hide ) Ok, so I finally want to get serious about getting the Z out on the track. I'm going to dump some money into

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Old 03-19-2019, 10:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Original Post:
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Ok, so I finally want to get serious about getting the Z out on the track. I'm going to dump some money into maintenance stuff when I bite the bullet and pay labor for the install of numerous go-fast parts collected over the years. I'm looking for any input from an experienced perspective.

The vehicle has 100K daily driven miles. A lot of highway miles, but there are a number of hard driven miles in there as well. I change fluids frequently and never had any real mechanical issues other than a steering rack replaced under warranty at 80K, a broken fuel top hat, and some recent starter(?) issues.

With the future expectations of track and/or autoX activity, I'd like to go ahead with a few preventative maintenance items as is reasonable for the budget (only ~$5K so no boost). And since I'm not quite to the point where I want to trailer it to location (because I don't currently have a vehicle to tow with) driveability and reliability are the name of the game at this point. I don't mind sacrificing on-track performance and spending that money to make sure the car can drive home after track sessions (obviously that's not always possible and I will need to have a backup plan).

My thought was to assign a 1, 2, or 3 priority level to the item based on performance and risk criteria. A 1 rating would be high priority due to factors such as a high risk of failure due to mileage or cause racecar or high performance value for the cost or just basic maintenance that is due. A 3 rating would be low priority due to low likelihood of failure or cost prohibitions for now or something that has little to no impact on driveability as well as things that are good to keep in mind for the future. A 2 rating would be a medium priority and basically anything that doesn't fall into the other two categories. For example, this might be things that aren't a priority but are much easier to do while some other work is being done.

Maintenance Items
1 Starter issue
1** Clutch + CMAK
1** Fluids
1 Spark Plugs
1 Injectors
1** EPS Oil Galley Gaskets

Performance Items
1 Driver Mod (w/ Instructor)
1 Seb re-tune (currently on Ecutek w/o RaceRom)
1** Hotchkis Front Sway Bar
1** SPL FUCAs
1** Stillen Brake Duct Kit
1** FI 34 Row Oil Cooler
1** CJM Billet Top Hat
1** CJM RRP kit
1** CJM Engine Mounts
1** Torque Solutions Transmission Mount
1** FI Test Pipes
1** Carbotech XP10/8 Pads
1 Power Steering Cooler
1 ATI Super Damper
1** ARC Coolant Reservoir w/ Catch Cans
1** SPL Differential Bushings
1** SPL Subframe Bushings
1** Nismo Finned Differential Cover
1** Oil Pressure Gauge
1** Wavetrac Differential
1** SuckerPunch Billet Oil Pump Gears
2** Fuel Pressure Gauge
3** Fortune Auto 500 Coilovers
3** SPL PRO Front Endlinks
3** SPL PRO Rear Endlinks
3** SPL Ti Rear Camber Arms
3** SPL Ti Rear Traction Arms
3** SPL Ti Rear Toe Arms
3 Track Wheels (Enkei 18s likely)
3 Coolerworx Shifter Assembly
3 Radiator (NOT CSF or miSHITmoto)
3 Racing Brake 2-piece rear rotors
3** CJM Baffled Oil Pan
** parts that are already purchased


I will probably wind up doing most of the work myself.


UPDATE 01/2020
Oil pump gears are looking to be ready around the end of the month.

Planning to tow the car to my mechanic with the entire front end removed to minimize labor costs. I'll let him do everything under the front timing cover and we'll see what else makes sense at the time. Things to be installed include CJM oil pan, oil cooler, and ARC coolant reservoir with catch cans.

For the differential, I'm going to fly to the east coast and get some help from Rusty or JC lol
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Last edited by JARblue; 02-17-2020 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:14 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't see where you've listed a BP kit?
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:26 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I don't see where you've listed a BP kit?
It's in there, but you have to do some searching. He lists at as the "B" from the Billet Oil Pump Gears, the "P" from SPL, and "Kit" from the CJM RRP Kit.
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I don't see where you've listed a BP kit?
why would he want that garbage?



FI TT only way to go
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Yes, they are Tony approved! Frank, when I get around to it, I may put your pipes into production. We will call them, "The FP" option.
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:32 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I knew the first comment would be something about boost

Unfortunately, that would really blow the budget. Staying NA for now
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Old 03-19-2019, 12:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by FPenvy View Post
why would he want that garbage?



FI TT only way to go
No, he bought the correct transmission. He can use the BP kit.
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Old 03-19-2019, 12:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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No, he bought the correct transmission. He can use the BP kit.
it's still garbage in comparison
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Yes, they are Tony approved! Frank, when I get around to it, I may put your pipes into production. We will call them, "The FP" option.
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Old 03-19-2019, 12:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Says the guy who never bought either, and then gave up and bought a different car.

You need to hurry up and mod that GTR so you can keep up with a boosted Z.
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Old 03-19-2019, 12:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Says the guy who never bought either, and then gave up and bought a different car.

You need to hurry up and mod that GTR so you can keep up with a boosted Z.
i still think the GTR stock is enough vs boosted Z. i win the traction war all day. the Z needs more than just a set of snails to compete.....like a build block, tranny, fuel, etc...

i just start it and hit the gas i gave up due to it being a waste of time and money.

now, doesnt mean that i dont have a list of parts i'm currently sourcing to go FBO and E85.
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Yes, they are Tony approved! Frank, when I get around to it, I may put your pipes into production. We will call them, "The FP" option.
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Old 03-19-2019, 04:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue View Post
Ok, so I finally want to get serious about getting the Z out on the track. I'm going to dump some money into maintenance stuff when I bite the bullet and pay labor for the install of numerous go-fast parts collected over the years. I'm looking for any input from an experienced perspective.

The vehicle has 100K daily driven miles. A lot of highway miles, but there are a number of hard driven miles in there as well. I change fluids frequently and never had any real mechanical issues other than a steering rack replaced under warranty at 80K, a broken fuel top hat, and some recent starter(?) issues.

With the future expectations of track and/or autoX activity, I'd like to go ahead with a few preventative maintenance items as is reasonable for the budget (only ~$5K so no boost). And since I'm not quite to the point where I want to trailer it to location (because I don't currently have a vehicle to tow with) driveability and reliability are the name of the game at this point. I don't mind sacrificing on-track performance and spending that money to make sure the car can drive home after track sessions (obviously that's not always possible and I will need to have a backup plan).

My thought was to assign a 1, 2, or 3 priority level to the item based on performance and risk criteria. A 1 rating would be high priority due to factors such as a high risk of failure due to mileage or cause racecar or high performance value for the cost or just basic maintenance that is due. A 3 rating would be low priority due to low likelihood of failure or cost prohibitions for now or something that has little to no impact on driveability as well as things that are good to keep in mind for the future. A 2 rating would be a medium priority and basically anything that doesn't fall into the other two categories. For example, this might be things that aren't a priority but are much easier to do while some other work is being done.

Maintenance Items
1 Starter issue
1 Clutch + CMAK
1 Fluids (engine, trans, diff, coolant, brake)
1 Spark Plugs
1 Injectors
1 Oil Gallery Gasket. Might as well do the oil pump at the same time since the front of the motor will be apart.

Performance Items
1 Driver Mod (w/ Instructor)
1 Seb re-tune (currently on Ecutek w/o RaceRom)
1 Hotchkis Front Sway Bar
1 SPL FUCAs (purchased)
1 Stillen Brake Duct Kit (purchased)
1 FI 34 Row Oil Cooler (purchased)
1 CJM Billet Top Hat
1 CJM RRP kit (purchased)
1 CJM Engine Mounts
1 Torque Solutions Transmission Mount
1 FI Test Pipes
1 Carbotech XP10/8 Pads
2 ARC Coolant Reservoir w/ Catch Cans (purchased)
2 SPL Differential Bushings (Whiteline poly currently installed)
2 SPL Subframe Bushings
2 Oil Pressure Gauge
2 Fuel Pressure Gauge.
3 Fortune Auto 500 Coilovers + related SPL suspension bits
3 Wavetrac Differential
3 Track Wheels (Enkei 18s likely)
3 Radiator (NOT CJM or miSHITmoto)
3 2-piece rear rotors
3 Billet Oil Pump Gears

I will do some work myself, but there are a number of things I've never done. And as much as I'd like to learn and have full confidence, I simply don't have the time to mess with them. I really just want to drive the car

My estimates with labor (for the priority items) already have me well over budget, but please let me know if you have any questions or any recommendations for go-fast parts or maintenance items to add to the list
Jar, if you want to play the autox game. You have to decide how far you want to go because of the restrictions in each class. Most of everything you want to do will put you at a disadvantage.
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Old 03-19-2019, 06:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Jar, if you want to play the autox game. You have to decide how far you want to go because of the restrictions in each class. Most of everything you want to do will put you at a disadvantage.
I'm aware but its not an issue for me. I'm not looking to compete with anyone except myself. So I don't care what class they have to put me in. At least one of the groups I know about I'm told is very lax with the regulations.
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Old 03-19-2019, 06:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Oil pump is tempting. But expensive. What do you recommend? Sucker Punch is $1300 new so that's a big chunk out of the budget. I am not interested in RJM. Boundary Engineering is another but I know nothing about them.
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Old 03-19-2019, 06:21 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Sucker Punch would the way to go. Just doing the galley gaskets and oil pump will eat most of the $5K if you take it to a shop.
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Old 03-19-2019, 06:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Sucker Punch would the way to go. Just doing the galley gaskets and oil pump will eat most of the $5K if you take it to a shop.
I would go with the Boundry Engineering gears and call it good if at all for now. Remember the engine may need to be pulled to do the oil gears so that time and labor will be about $1800. Also add to the list ATI super damper. If you want a bit more power get Z1 400 hp kit. It seems to be worth the money without going stupid.

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Old 03-19-2019, 06:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Yeah ... the clutch and maintenance items are at least $4000 in parts and labor

Galley gasket should be done though, right? I mean 100K miles. If it fails on the track, the motor probably gets toasted.
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