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Originally Posted by JARblue I'm thinking about my ARC coolant reservoir with the built-in catch cans. I would prefer to use the hoses it came with (previous owner included nice,
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I don’t know what you power steering fluid looks like, but mine boils at idle. Cooling that off will improve fluid performance and life. That being said I’m still running the factory PS cooler that comes on the G and I haven’t noticed any performance drop at all. Of course I don’t track mine. |
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The catch cans will help in removing blow by oil during the combustion process that can get recycled back into the intake manifold. When this blow by oil gets back into the combustion process, it lowers the octane rating of the fuel, so the catch cans are really just a way to keep the internals a little cleaner and running more efficient. Power steering fluid boils pretty easy. I switched over to Redline ATF D6 but it will still boil after long stints of hard driving. The cooler is just added insurance. I would keep an eye on yours. If you find it boiling after a few laps, then consider making changes (start with fluid then maybe a new cooler if needed).
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On the PS fluid. Do not fill the reservoir to the full line. Keep the fluid at the add line or a little below. When the fluid gets hot. It has to expand. The expanded fluid is forced out of the cap. That's what youe are seeing. You're not really boiling the fluid. It has to get over 600F. The ideal temp is between 175F to 200F. Once over 220F, it starts to break down.
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On the PCV system discussion, I ran my catch cans and now im running a can-atmosphere setup (basically the cans are venting to atmosphere, but the system is "close-looped". other than the smell, I don't have any issues so far. I might go back to the closed setup simply because the smell gets annoying, but for functionality, it's good. Last edited by abm89; 02-07-2020 at 07:00 PM. |
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I don’t recommend venting the crankcase to atmosphere. I still believe that part of the tuning/idling hiccup in the BP turbo kit is due to not having those hose plumbed back in preturbo. The TT kits route that back to the intake piping leading to the turbo. I think the ECU is expecting a certain amount of unmetered air at the TBs and when it doesn’t get it, it causes small issues. Nobody has been able to confirm this because there is no way to plumb the hose preturbo on the BP kit.
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But the ARC setup would have some unmetered air going back into the intake piping after the MAFs before the TBs. Does not that not accomplish what you are concerned about?
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I have zero issues with the catch can. I just don’t recommend deleting the PCV and routing back between the MAF and TB. If the ARC setup keeps that, then it shouldn’t be a problem. Minor thread detail. I will add a caveat. I have zero proof venting the crank case causes any issues. It’s just my theory and one that several of the BP guys and I tried finding a way to eliminate several years back. We kind of quit when we couldn’t find a solution. Best I can tell it has zero impact under load. It’s more a idle/drivability issue. |
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Also, i really hate that gold intake wrap job they did. it's like they didn't even try. here's mine (not the current catch can setup but most recent photo i have):
( Click to show/hide )
Last edited by abm89; 02-07-2020 at 04:05 PM. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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This is a great thread. I'll be going down a similar route with my track only Z but the mod list you've thrown together is a great starting point! Not gonna lie though, overwhelmed by the amount of reliability mods you've got there... Will need to add some of those parts to my list.
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Ever since I had my steering rack replaced and the dealer let my PS fluid reservoir go dry, I've had occasional whining from the PS pump. I wasn't planning on doing anything cause I figured worst case scenario is the pump goes out and I get a good arm workout until I replace it.
But I just bought a used pump with 17K miles on it for $100. Figured the price was right.
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