Daily Driver No Longer

Hotrodz · 05-09-2020, 10:41 AM

I don't run a sandwich plate either because it is not necessary. I just make sure I let the car warm up in the cool time of the year.

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Rusty · 05-09-2020, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

I don't run a sandwich plate either because it is not necessary. I just make sure I let the car warm up in the cool time of the year.

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Well.......you live 2 blocks from Hell in the summer. So why need a thermostatic plate. Your oil is already cooking just sitting on the pavement.

AlWakRa · 05-09-2020, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

It's going to see a lot of 85F+ weather

I'm not planning to be like Hotrodz who parks his car in the summer LOL

I don't seems to pass 200-210F when I drive in street with FI oil cooler on summer, 85+ easily.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Well.......you live 2 blocks from Hell in the summer. So why need a thermostatic plate. Your oil is already cooking just sitting on the pavement.

I have thermostatic sandwich plate on my z and it helps, my rsx doesn't have and it just drops temps during the outlap

, I need to keep the revs too high to keep it warm, but I think the weather during the season is the reason, lets say it is between 65-90F. Anyway, for street driving, the car needs a thermostatic one.

Rusty · 05-09-2020, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlWakRa

I don't seems to pass 200-210F when I drive in street with FI oil cooler on summer, 85+ easily.

I have thermostatic sandwich plate on my z and it helps, my rsx doesn't have and it just drops temps during the outlap

, I need to keep the revs too high to keep it warm, but I think the weather during the season is the reason, lets say it is between 65-90F. Anyway, for street driving, the car needs a thermostatic one.

Where Hotrodz is at. You can fry eggs in the shade during summer. It's over 100F.

Hotrodz · 05-09-2020, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlWakRa

I don't seems to pass 200-210F when I drive in street with FI oil cooler on summer, 85+ easily.

I have thermostatic sandwich plate on my z and it helps, my rsx doesn't have and it just drops temps during the outlap

, I need to keep the revs too high to keep it warm, but I think the weather during the season is the reason, lets say it is between 65-90F. Anyway, for street driving, the car needs a thermostatic one.

The hood vents help lower temps quickly on cool down lap. By the time I get back to the paddock my temps are pretty close to normal. I the winter she runs on the cool side but not out of the safe zone without blocking the oil cooler but that is always an option.

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AlWakRa · 05-09-2020, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Where Hotrodz is at. You can fry eggs in the shade during summer. It's over 100F.

In summer over here, it reaches 120F or higher

my point is, without thermostats the car will take a long time to reach optimal temps when the weather is cooler, Hotrodz tt is a good heater so he doesn't need thermostats

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

The hood vents help lower temps quickly on cool down lap. By the time I get back to the paddock my temps are pretty close to normal. I the winter she runs on the cool side but not out of the safe zone without blocking the oil cooler but that is always an option.

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Same experience with my z in track, but it can reach 250F during session even in cooler weather, on the other hand, my dc5 stays at 195F on track but if I slowed down it get quickly cooler, without even installing any vents, but I installed the biggest cooler I can get.

abm89 · 05-09-2020, 11:12 PM

Oh jeez. I just realized I cannot type for ****.

Anyway, I've got a stillen oil cooler kit, with a setrab 34 row core i bought recently. with my vented hood, I don't go above 180F when driving normally. maybe 190 or 200 if im stuck in traffic. I'll get more data again in the summer but it's honestly overkill for my setup, which is fine.

Apparently Oil temps are a common problem with these newer cars (especially boosted ones). My WRX will imp mode once it gets to 225F. My friend's A90 Supra will limp mode after a few laps as well.

JARblue · 06-04-2020, 08:40 AM

Sent the Z to the shop yesterday for the work in the engine bay (mostly behind the front timing cover). Hoping to have it ready for the 4th of July meetup at Madwi's

Wigjiggy · 06-06-2020, 10:34 AM

Built my own splitter out of 6m alumalite. Sticks out 5 inches from end of Stillen bumper. I reinforced it with connections to the crash bar and frame, and built the rods out of 10 32 threaded rods. I can stand on it and I’m 225 lbs. Won’t win any beauty contests, but this car never sees the street. Tried it out at Sebring last weekend and it did great. I could feel the grip on high speed corners. Starts at 3 inches off the ground and barely clears the track on heavy cornering.

JARblue · 06-07-2020, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wigjiggy

Built my own splitter out of 6m alumalite. Sticks out 5 inches from end of Stillen bumper. I reinforced it with connections to the crash bar and frame, and built the rods out of 10 32 threaded rods. I can stand on it and I’m 225 lbs. Won’t win any beauty contests, but this car never sees the street. Tried it out at Sebring last weekend and it did great. I could feel the grip on high speed corners. Starts at 3 inches off the ground and barely clears the track on heavy cornering.

That's pretty slick. Too bad aero mods are way down the list in terms of priority. I'll get there one day

JARblue · 06-07-2020, 05:38 PM

Contemplating having the valve cover gaskets replaced while work is being done. What is this talk I see of the radiator being in the way?

Its not coming out for the front timing cover work. How in the hell is it in the way of the valve cover bolts?

JARblue · 06-09-2020, 10:19 AM

Anyone have any information on the valve covers? I found some that appear to have the spark plug tube seals individually serviceable. Wondering if mine are that way. Or if they are an older version with the spark plug seals as part of the cover itself. Might have to go by the shop and do some more dismantling.

After some research and verifying on my 2011, it seems that the valve cover design with separate valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals came online for vehicles manufactured after 01/2011. My understanding is the previous design had integrated spark plug o-rings with the valve cover gasket. Added to the parts list.

Wigjiggy · 06-12-2020, 07:21 AM

Before and after big brake addition. Stop Tech Trophy R’s. Can’t wait to get them on the track in a few weeks.

Z is 4 ZEBRA! · 07-22-2020, 01:06 PM

I am glad I found this thread and look forward to watching your progress! I am actually going through a similar process of building the car to be more bullet proof on the track.

One question I did have was regarding the oil pump and oil pump gears. I plan on purchasing the Boundary Engineering pump from Z1 with the billet pump cover. There are options to include shims to increase the oil pressure anywhere from +10psi to +30psi. Is this something you did as well? Or did you not find it necessary? I understand that some of the higher HP or forced induction applications my need to run higher oil pressure. Is there a need to run higher pressures for track applications with basic bolt ons? Are there any downsides to running the higher oil pressures if it is overkill for the application?

Rusty · 07-22-2020, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z is 4 ZEBRA!

I am glad I found this thread and look forward to watching your progress! I am actually going through a similar process of building the car to be more bullet proof on the track.

One question I did have was regarding the oil pump and oil pump gears. I plan on purchasing the Boundary Engineering pump from Z1 with the billet pump cover. There are options to include shims to increase the oil pressure anywhere from +10psi to +30psi. Is this something you did as well? Or did you not find it necessary? I understand that some of the higher HP or forced induction applications my need to run higher oil pressure. Is there a need to run higher pressures for track applications with basic bolt ons? Are there any downsides to running the higher oil pressures if it is overkill for the application?

You need to read this.

Observed Oil Pressure with a gauge

The oem pump will product over a 100 psi.

05-09-2020, 10:41 AM	#1 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684386	I don't run a sandwich plate either because it is not necessary. I just make sure I let the car warm up in the cool time of the year. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

05-09-2020, 11:12 PM	#7 (permalink)
abm89 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 1,391 Drives: 370Z, Z900RS, T120 Rep Power: 64765	Oh jeez. I just realized I cannot type for ***. Anyway, I've got a stillen oil cooler kit, with a setrab 34 row core i bought recently. with my vented hood, I don't go above 180F when driving normally. maybe 190 or 200 if im stuck in traffic. I'll get more data again in the summer but it's honestly overkill for my setup, which is fine. Apparently Oil temps are a common problem with these newer cars (especially boosted ones). My WRX will imp mode once it gets to 225F. My friend's A90 Supra will limp mode after a few laps as well. __________________ Complete Parts List: https://github.com/abm89/ztouge-build Last edited by abm89; 05-09-2020 at 11:14 PM.*

06-04-2020, 08:40 AM	#8 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 45 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684442	Sent the Z to the shop yesterday for the work in the engine bay (mostly behind the front timing cover). Hoping to have it ready for the 4th of July meetup at Madwi's __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

06-07-2020, 05:38 PM	#11 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 45 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684442	Contemplating having the valve cover gaskets replaced while work is being done. What is this talk I see of the radiator being in the way? Its not coming out for the front timing cover work. How in the hell is it in the way of the valve cover bolts? __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

06-09-2020, 10:19 AM	#12 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 45 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684442	Anyone have any information on the valve covers? I found some that appear to have the spark plug tube seals individually serviceable. Wondering if mine are that way. Or if they are an older version with the spark plug seals as part of the cover itself. Might have to go by the shop and do some more dismantling. After some research and verifying on my 2011, it seems that the valve cover design with separate valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals came online for vehicles manufactured after 01/2011. My understanding is the previous design had integrated spark plug o-rings with the valve cover gasket. Added to the parts list. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \| Last edited by JARblue; 06-11-2020 at 09:37 AM.

07-22-2020, 01:06 PM	#14 (permalink)
Z is 4 ZEBRA! Base Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: SLC Posts: 77 Drives: 40th Nissan 370z Rep Power: 4254	I am glad I found this thread and look forward to watching your progress! I am actually going through a similar process of building the car to be more bullet proof on the track. One question I did have was regarding the oil pump and oil pump gears. I plan on purchasing the Boundary Engineering pump from Z1 with the billet pump cover. There are options to include shims to increase the oil pressure anywhere from +10psi to +30psi. Is this something you did as well? Or did you not find it necessary? I understand that some of the higher HP or forced induction applications my need to run higher oil pressure. Is there a need to run higher pressures for track applications with basic bolt ons? Are there any downsides to running the higher oil pressures if it is overkill for the application?

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