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It sounds like any big block old school American muscle car.. Just throws people off because its an import car but it didnt throw and codes so I don't think
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Southwest FL
Posts: 1,374
Drives: G37S
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It sounds like any big block old school American muscle car.. Just throws people off because its an import car but it didnt throw and codes so I don't think it caused any problems.
Personally sounds beast to me, imagine pulling up at a red light and everyone hearing this. Everyone would be breaking neck tryna figure out how the....???? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Tampa
Posts: 4,142
Drives: 13' Magma Red Nismo
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When my M370 was installed improperly, it sounded similar. I admit, it sounded kinda cool, but it did not run well at all.... When diagnosing the issue, I threw it on the dyno, made 225whp when not even 2 weeks ago it put down nearly 90whp more.
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Old Car:GTM TSC'd 550whp / 410lbft tq @ 11.88PSI
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#3 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 434
Drives: 2010 370z 7AT
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How was it improperly installed? I did the install myself and it was pretty easy and self explanatory. What did they do wrong? Oh and btw if I heard that sound at a stop lighting would laugh cause it would sound like a misfire or the car was barely running.
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#4 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Southwest FL
Posts: 1,374
Drives: G37S
Rep Power: 30 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Lol yea man on an import it would be like wtf.... But on an ol school big block it would be like Wwwoooooowwwww! It's just the fact it's in a 370 that prolly throws people off.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Track Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: houston
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![]() Would sound even better outside of a shop but like stated the sound might not fit the car. To each their own but i have known nobody who would think that sounded bad but then again we are on an import forum. Both my friends 70 fastback and 67 camaro sound cammy like that at idle but not quit as strong. O&G's upload sounds nothing like what is posted above in my opinion.
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#6 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Location: Tampa
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Drives: 13' Magma Red Nismo
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Shop didn't see the metal plate that needs to be there, so there wasn't a good seal. I bought it used so no instructions. I downloaded the instructions Tony emailed to me and started started checking EVERYTHING. Then I couldn't find the metal plate. So Tony @ Motordyne sent me another. I found the original while it was in the mail. Luckily I did because the new one did not align properly... That was a good hour of troubleshooting. And a pissed off Wife, as I called her at 0130 to come back to the shop and drop off my parts box. I didn't get any sheet action for the next two weeks. But yeah, easy fix, extraordinary headache.
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Old Car:GTM TSC'd 550whp / 410lbft tq @ 11.88PSI
New Car: Under Construction ![]() |
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#7 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Location: Tampa
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Drives: 13' Magma Red Nismo
Rep Power: 7336 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Was referring to revving, they sounded remarkably familiar. My idle was pulsing, but rythmic and more worble.
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Old Car:GTM TSC'd 550whp / 410lbft tq @ 11.88PSI
New Car: Under Construction ![]() |
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#8 (permalink) | ||
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,112
Drives: 2010 370Z NAG 7AT
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Quote:
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|| Build Journal || Follow Us: Web Site || Facebook ||Quote:
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#9 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2010
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The clip i uploaded was my Z with NO exhaust.....strait headers. I have no idea how it would sound with eaxhaust, cats, etc.... JTran has figured out the cam timing but its the lift that he cant figure out at the moment. He hasnt messed with it for about 2 weeks, many other cars and projects going on at the shop. Im still waiting on parts and fab work so my car is down at the moment. I dont think ill have comparable numbers untill after xmas. I know he was able to make 29 more wtq @ 2900 rpm. He told me VVEL timing adjustments will help at low mid range but the top of the rev range will benifit more from the lift adjustments when we get to that point. There is still alot more to figure out safely, im not trying to rebuild vq37 heads.
sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note
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#11 (permalink) |
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Base Member
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Sounded awful. it just sound wrong guys, was considering Up Rev but might go on the other direction if such tuning is Okay. In my region we have authorized dealers or tuner shall i say. but I don't trust them with my car, can Up Rev do a custom tune by shipping them my ECU? If so who is the best tuner out there?!
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#12 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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The difference between dyno tune and e-tuning (or remote tuning) Dyno tuning takes at most a few hours, you have the convenience of doing all of your pulls on the dyno and can adjust your maps at the tip of your fingers. It's convenient, quick, and effective. However not everyone has access to a reputable tuner, or a tuner at all within reasonable distance so they Uprev offers the standard cable, which you can buy to hook up your laptop to your car yourself. Remote tuning is simple, can be just as effective as a dyno tune, but requires you to do your end of the work too. Instead of doing pulls on the dyno and adjusting the map in real time, now we (the tuner) send you a map, you load it to your car. After the map is loaded, you hop onto the highway and log certain/specific data points, via the cable and your own laptop (and the software), these data points get saved and sent to us, we analyze the logs and adjust your map accordingly, and send you an updated map. You go back and forth a few times until your map is perfect. A bit more complicated but by no means is this method inferior to a dyno tune. If you do get a dyno tune, I highly recommend you ask them to take it on the street and fine tune/street tune it as well. Although dyno tune can be very accurate, depending on the dyno, it doesn't apply real world load. Some tuners will argue that street tuning a street car is the way to go, and dyno tunes are for those just looking to make crazy numbers, haha I say the best of both worlds is dyno tune, then fine tune things on the street!" You should PM Khoi, he is very knowledgeable and provides outstanding customer service. I hope this helps.
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
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Thanks for the tipAnyone knows what is the difference between locked and unlocked UpRev tune?. Obviously one is adjustable and the other one is fixed but which one would you go if you want a Full bolt on setup. does it worth it to have the car tune after full bolt on mods? is it a must to save my engine from quick failure Last edited by ColdFire; 01-01-2013 at 04:40 AM. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I personally would never load a locked tune unless the tuning was being done for free by someone local who doesn't mind being bugged for tweaks. Remote tuning is based upon the tuner's experience with tuning that particular car or, more specifically, engine and "what makes power". Data logs can't log power output. Most e-tuning is just to keep AFR in the range that's wanted as well as any other indicators the tuner knows to look for based upon past experiences with that engine. The only way to effectively tune specifically for power is to do it on a dyno, in real time, so that the tuner can see what does and doesn't work with a particular setup with a particular set of environmental parameters. I've started arguments on this forum with statements like that, but it's true. You can't do science without proper data and you can't get the relevant data needed to be 100% accurate without collecting that data yourself with proper instrumentation. Everything else is best effort with known parameters. (Which to be honest, is more than enough for most of us haha) |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
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