Racelogic Traction Control

GaleForce

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Limeybastard

From St Pete, says it all... {JK}

Welcome to the forum.

roplusbee

I am sure you will find my350 or zilvia more hospitable.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

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2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift | UPREV | F.I. | Greddy | Competition Clutch | Injector Dynamics | Aeromotive | Pioneer | JL

phunk

No-lift shifting is just driving technique. Just do not lift when you shift, and you will be no-lift shifting!

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victorofhavoc

hahah, you can do this, but you'll also be replacing transmissions as fast as clutches...

most no-lift-shift systems limit your rpm when the clutch is down so you don't blow up your transmission

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Had a 2010 WRX- boy was it quick in a straight line, got a 2014 Z- man is she grippy in the corners-- then left the Z and later got a GTI, now back in an 09 racecar Z!

Mitco39

Tranmission and engine will be fine. Its the clutch that takes the hit. If you have a ceramic clutch that is made for launching it will hold just fine. It does shock the system a bit when you use the factory rev limiter but hey that just makes you faster! lol. I have my no lift set at about 5600rpm I believe to lessen that.

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2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me
2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me
The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her
My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

victorofhavoc

If you have a very strong clutch you also move your load from the clutch to the gears. These transmissions are very durable, but not impossible to break, especially with FI. Coming from a WRX, I can tell you many horror stories of people shifting into the next gear while at 7k rpm and ripping 3rd gear into bits

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Had a 2010 WRX- boy was it quick in a straight line, got a 2014 Z- man is she grippy in the corners-- then left the Z and later got a GTI, now back in an 09 racecar Z!

phunk

61,000 miles on my transmission. I first no-lift shifted it about 20 minutes away from the dealer when I bought it. The stock 2 piece sprung flywheel isn't a big fan of it (makes a clunk when it bottoms out), otherwise you're fine if you know how to do it.

Limit the RPM when the clutch is down? If you take so long to shift that your rpm even has a chance to fall, why are you no-lift shifting anyway?

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victorofhavoc

? ...I meant limit rpm to say 5500 or 5600 while you have your foot on the gas and the clutch at the same time so that you're not dropping into the next geat at 7k rpm and having to shock your driveline much harder.

Hey if no one around here has destroyed a tooth just dropping clutch close to redline, then I stand corrected lol. I come from a world of subarus and porsches...i've seen too many teeth stuck to the magnet on the drain bolt to even attempt this in the Z haha.

If these cars are this durable i think it's time i just get a heavier clutch and start ripping those launches at 5k

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Had a 2010 WRX- boy was it quick in a straight line, got a 2014 Z- man is she grippy in the corners-- then left the Z and later got a GTI, now back in an 09 racecar Z!

Mitco39

I think Charles was taking a dig at my shifting speed. haha. Touche. He has the time slip to prove what hes taking about.

The only thing with launching hard is that horrible rear axle hop, which bushings will help with, I am yet to do them however. You will smoke your tires well before you smoke the trans. The stock clutch however, not so much.

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2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me
2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me
The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her
My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

phunk

I know what you meant, and I am saying it doesnt make a difference (in my head, at least). If you are no-lift shifting the car, are you going to push in the clutch and then sit there and wait for the engine speed to come all the way down to 5500? I'm not... defeats the entire purpose of no-lift shifting.

Unless you are granny shifting like that, engine speed probably would never have a chance to fall below 7000 before the clutch is reapplied and the engine is braked down for the next gear speed.

Sure anything can break, but all that you realistically need to worry about is the axles and differential mounts. Replace the diff mounts before the rear one busts open, and preload your axles before launching and you probably wont be unlucky.

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Mitco39

But this is a Nissan

Its unheard of on this forum. Syncros go but I have yet to see anyone actually grenade the trans. I been no lift shifting since I got the car, and its been boosted for the majority of its life. Second clutch but still first trans. Hell I cooked my clutched doing a standing launch in 2nd.

There is just something about revving to 7500rpm and then popping the clutch in 2nd and watching the smoke. We all know 1st gear is much to short to leave a proper burnout, lol.

Either way I have 0 issues with flat foot shifting this gearbox. You just have to make sure its done right as to not take out a synchro which lets be honest can happen to anyone who isn't the greatest at shifting.

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2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me
2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me
The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her
My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

phunk

See I am on top of the theory of it all, but what I am trying to say is that: just because the no-lift shift box has cut fuel or spark doesnt mean the engine is immediately at the lower speed. It will still take a moment for the mass of the crank and flywheel to decelerate, and with the throttles wide open there isnt even any manifold vacuum to help. If you are shifting as fast as you are physically able, which I assume is pretty fast if you are experienced and confident, the engine isnt going to have enough time to decelerate to 5500rpm.

Of course, the way I am doing it, the engine is staying at redline the entire shift, working the synchros a little more, but my transmission does not complain, it shifts just fine and hasnt started to grind or anything and that is 60,000 miles on it and it is still on the factory fill trans fluid and all. I had the same experience with my 350z, however that car did break its transmission a couple months after I sold it (but it was 10 years old by then and been through hell, and a new trans isnt even expensive enough to worry about). To have it at redline as I release clutch in the next gear also gives me a nice little jerk of power as the inertial energy of the flywheel and crankshaft at 7500rpm gets blasted into the drivetrain to decelerate it to the next gears speed.

If you watch my in-car vids, you will notice that the car only taps the limiter the first time and you cant even hear it because the shift is already over. You use that first cut as your no-load chance to slam that shifter. Only on my slower/miss-timed shifts do you notice that it hit the limiter.

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Chuck33079

No ****? Wow. I'd love to see an analysis and see what weight it's sheared down to after the abuse you put it through.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

victorofhavoc

Oh I see what you're saying now. Well From my experience with it on a boosted engine, not the Z's, it has always fallen as fast, if not a tad faster, than the time it has taken me to push in the clutch shift to the next gear and release the clutch. Especially on 2-3 4-5 shifts. I may not be as fast as a DSG auto, but the .5 sec it takes me to shift is enough time for RPMs to fall enough to where it matters. And of course peak range for torque is more efficient this way.

EDIT: I'm sure a lightweight flywheel would also help it fall faster, when it's not holding the same intertia

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Had a 2010 WRX- boy was it quick in a straight line, got a 2014 Z- man is she grippy in the corners-- then left the Z and later got a GTI, now back in an 09 racecar Z!