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Also thought I might add, it would be useful to pur your wipers at top center and shut the carr off so you can get plastic panel off to gain
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Also thought I might add, it would be useful to pur your wipers at top center and shut the carr off so you can get plastic panel off to gain access to rear mounting bolts on strut brace. Just a fyi incase it wasn't covered in this write up.
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#2 (permalink) |
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This is doing way too much if you ask me. It is very easy to take off the OEM intake by disconnecting both ends of the tube first. You have plenty of room to do this. Installing the new intake is fairly easy to do with the brace on. Just position the clamp at an angle where the brace is not blocking the screws on the clamps.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
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I'm gonna install my g3s soon but I had a quick question. I know AK shows that it would be beneficial to wrap the AC lines so that it doesn't mess it up, but do we have to put any kind of padding or cover around the radiator support? Any input is appreciated guys thanks.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Thanks. I used some of this to help me install my AEM intake.
Now where was that posting of resetting the door open auto windows up down.......
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09 370z 6spd traded 1/12/15 for 15 Challenger RT 6spd
Last edited by 7speed; 02-08-2013 at 03:09 PM. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
2. Close the door. 3. Open the window completely by operating the power window switch. 4. Pull the power window switch and hold it to close the window, and then hold the switch more than 3 seconds after the window is closed completely. 5. Release the power window switch. Operate the window by the automatic function to confirm the initialization is complete. 6. Perform steps 2 through 5 above for other windows. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Good job Kabestro. I'll have to do the same with my AEM intake. I wanted to get baseline but car was out of commission when I had the chance.
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09 370z 6spd traded 1/12/15 for 15 Challenger RT 6spd
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#12 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I did....the pipes do pulse so you could hear a resonating sound through the car. I wrapped mine with rubber at the support beams.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
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Thanks for the input I'll keep that in mind as an option
rep for you sir!Any other ideas?
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40th anniversary #450/1000 | Takeda Attack CAI | Ark DTS exhaust | to be continued... |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Most common thing that happens with the installation is scratching of the lower pipes upon installation. You can leave the plastic on the lower pipes while you're fitting them, then remove later. Added protection against the aluminum scraping while installing.
That being said, they are aluminum pipes, you can sand/buff the scratches out, but so much less work to just take a couple extra minutes during the install. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I used a sharpie to mark where the rubber needed to go and used electrical tape to sleeve the tube. I also ziptied tje tubes to the crash bar to make it easier to install the front fascia.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtvG...data_playerARK HFC'S-ARK Grip-Stillen G3-M370-UPREV-Kinetix upper control arm-WC Latheworks-Stage2 Bad@$$ Driver(318whp/268tq)- |
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