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DIY: STILLEN G3 Intakes

Havent seen this on the DIY so i thought i would throw it out there. I'll edit it once i go re-check what size bolts are what, cant remember off

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Old 09-06-2009, 06:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY: STILLEN G3 Intakes

Havent seen this on the DIY so i thought i would throw it out there. I'll edit it once i go re-check what size bolts are what, cant remember off the top of my head and sorry for the lack of pictures, wasnt planning on doing a DIY when i installed the intakes. This is my first DIY post so please forgive me if i did anything wrong with posting.

Tools Required:

Rachet set with 8, 10, 12, 14mm sockets.
Phillips head screw driver
Flat head screw driver
Dremel or rotary tool
Vise Grips


!!!I am no way responsible for your actions nor your car if something goes wrong!!!

Step 1. Lay your pieces out to make sure you have everything.


Step. 2. Disconnect the battery by lifting the 2 tabs to remove the cover. Then with a 10mm socket disconnect the negitive wire. (remember by disconnecting the battery your radio, clock, automatic windows, ecu and other parts of the car get reset. Check your owners manual on how to reset everything.)


Step 3. Remove the front Fascia and the black cover above it by removing the push pins on top of the fasica, there is 12 pushpins. And the 10mm bolts on the bottom. Pull back the fender liners on each side and unscrew the screw holding the fascia on. With a gentle tug the fascia should come off. Place the bumper aside where it wont get scratched.



Step 4. Remove the Fascia mount by unbolting these 3 bolts. This will make easier install on the new intake.



Step 5. Remove the strut bar by unbolting the 3 bolts on each side and then pull the 2 push pins on the cover at the top. Pull the cover off and unbolt the 2 bolts under it. Then pull the strut bar out and put it aside.




Step 6. Once the strut bar is removed. Remove the engine cover by unbolting the 5 bolts.


Step 7. Remove the MAF Sensor's from each intake by removing the 2 screws per sensor, place them in a spot where they wont get damaged or dirty. If they get damaged in any way they will read incorrect and you will have big issues with your ECU.


Step 8. Unbolt the 2 lower bolts that hold the airbox down. Then unscrew the clamps that hold the intake to the throttle body. Then unclamp the clamps holding the hoses on the intake. The left one might be a PITA to get to so I removed the bolt in red to give me more room to unclamp the hose. Once everything is onbolted, unscrewed and unclamped. Pull the stock intakes out, this will require a tiny bit of force.




Onced pulled out it should look like this...


Step 9. Bend the horn/bracket back to allow the intakes to fit right.

Step 10. Pull the air inlet out by pressing the clip at the bottom. Then with some force pull it out, might require the 10mm bolt above the inlet to be unbolted. Once out you can throw it away. Once the inlet is out use a rotary tool or dremel tool to cut a bigger hole in the air inlet bracket. This will allow the lower pipe to fit


Step 11. Fit the rubber coupler on the throttle body and use the clamp to screw it down. Place the upper intake pipes in, be careful not to scratch them up. Use the clamp to tighten that down as well. Place the rubber couplers on the bottom of the tube and clamp it down.


Step 12. Now feed the lower tube through the inlet hole you just cut. Connect the 2 pipes together and clamp it down.


Step 13. Fit the filters on the lower tube. Might require either grinding down the screw studs or just try to fit the filter in without damaging it. Clamp the filters on the pipe.


Step 14. Cut the supplied rubber hose in half due to it being to long and place it on the pipe. Clamp that down.


Step 15. Give the map sensor's a quick wipe down and then put the maf sensor's back in and screw them down.

Step 16. Place the fascia mount back on and bolt the 3 bolts back in.

Step 17. Put the engine cover back on and bolt the 5 bolts back in

Step 18. Put the strut bar back in and bolt the 2 bolts at the top and then 3 bolts on each side back in. Put the cover on the top back on and put the 2 push pins back in. Make sure the rubber piece is placed correctly.

Step 19. Put the front fascia back on and bolt all the bolts back on and the 2 screw from each side. Then put the black cover back on and put all the push pins back in.

Step 20. Re-connect the battery and put the cover back on.

Step 21. Make a quick check that all the bolts on the intake, fascia, engine cover, strut bar to make sure they are tight.

Step 22. Start the engine up and let the car idle for approx 5mins to let the ECU get use to the new intakes. While this is happening you can check for air leaks on the intakes and re-program your radio, clock, windows and any other things that might have reset. Once again check your owners manual. If you dont have the automatic windows that drop your window a inch when you get out of the car then dont worry about it. If you do have it, reprogram it by doing what the manual says.

Step 23. Once everything is programmed and the ECU has settled down. go for a test drive and enjoy your Stillen G3 Intakes. Me personally i noticed a nice gain in power when i went for a drive. And the sound changed as well, i can now hear the air getting sucked in. On a scale of 1 - 10...10 being the hardest. I say this was a 3. Wasnt hard at all, just abit time consuming...took me 2 1/2 hours with basic handle tools.

Last edited by Snakes709; 09-12-2009 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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what are all the tools needed? just a 10 mm and a dremel?
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssqpolo View Post
what are all the tools needed? just a 10 mm and a dremel?
dremel, wrench kit, flat head screwdriver and pliers is basically all you need to install intakes
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Awesome DIY! Thank you! +1

I'll be doing this pretty soon myself and its nice to have everything step by step. Very much appreciated!
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssqpolo View Post
what are all the tools needed? just a 10 mm and a dremel?
like someone said, rachet with 10mm, i think i used a 15mm for something but i cant remember, still havent gone outside to check but everything is mostly 10mm, flat head screw driver, dremel and pliers

Last edited by Snakes709; 09-06-2009 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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cool. thanks for the pics and writeup. im gonna get to it this thursday! isnt there a bolt in the wheel well that u have to undo as well? maybe u already covered it and i missed it
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssqpolo View Post
cool. thanks for the pics and writeup. im gonna get to it this thursday! isnt there a bolt in the wheel well that u have to undo as well? maybe u already covered it and i missed it
there is but if you have small fingers then u dont need to undo it...i didnt even notice the one in the wheel well, i was able to pull the edge of the liner out and get the screw driver in there.

Last edited by Snakes709; 09-06-2009 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 09-07-2009, 01:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Mostly 8, 10, 12, 14, and 8MM's
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Old 09-07-2009, 03:19 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Good DIY. It'll help out many members. I will add it to the DIY index in near future.
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Old 09-07-2009, 06:55 AM   #10 (permalink)
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this write up is freaking awesome...i thought G3's were a pita to install....after reading this write up it makes me think otherwise....it looks very simple and straight forward...just a time consuming job
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Old 09-07-2009, 09:18 AM   #11 (permalink)
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one little thing to add,
wipe down all the polished pipes with rubbing alcohol after the install to get any fingerprints off. Otherwise, once they heat up, they will be come permanent.

I powdercoated mine black chrome instead though for a different look.
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Old 09-07-2009, 09:33 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike View Post
one little thing to add,
wipe down all the polished pipes with rubbing alcohol after the install to get any fingerprints off. Otherwise, once they heat up, they will be come permanent.

I powdercoated mine black chrome instead though for a different look.
you could do that or do what i seen 2 girls in the injen video do, leave the plastic wraping on during the install, then once finished, cut it off.

Thanks for the replies guys, its my first DIY so i didnt know if i was going to get flamed or what..lol.
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:24 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I doubt anyone would try to flame anyone for doing a DIY; something that helps the community. And with that said, I just went ahead and ordered my Stillen Gen 3 CAI
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Old 09-08-2009, 01:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snakes709 View Post
you could do that or do what i seen 2 girls in the injen video do, leave the plastic wraping on during the install, then once finished, cut it off.

Thanks for the replies guys, its my first DIY so i didnt know if i was going to get flamed or what..lol.
That only saves you finger prints - won't do anything for scratches.

Stainless Steel scratches easily. But, it also polishes easily.
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Old 09-08-2009, 06:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kannibul View Post
That only saves you finger prints - won't do anything for scratches.

Stainless Steel scratches easily. But, it also polishes easily.
i said the wrap will save you from finger prints, i said in my DIY posts be careful not to scratch it.
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