Time for the 10s.

GSS138

Hey Arvaxx you are thinking in the right direction, but have the wrong idea here I think.

Dropping the front low will actually add more weight to the rear. But dropping the rear will just counter act that.

Think of a suspension as 4 guys holding up a pallet full of dirt on all 4 corners.

FL FR
RL RR

If Mr. FL bends his legs and lowers down. It is going to get "heavier" for everyone else. Especially Mr. RR-his cross partner.

Now imagine that instead, Mr RL and Mr. RR both lift their hands and press the whole thing up. There is now a ton of weight on the rear.

Now imagine that while they have the rear raised in the air. FL and FR in turn both raise, their hands above their head. It's now equally distributed again.

(I am assuming of course these 4 men are clones with equal strength height and arm length.)

The point is you can add weight to the rear, by either lowering the front, or raising the back.

Lower too much, and it's just like doing a squat where you put your a$$ all the way to the floor-it becomes very hard to stand up- and, if your back is bent to much(camber out), you are going to lose the leverage of your legs.


The "Correct" height(if there is one) is this:
Street car-60% of shock travel length exposed(the silver piston thingy) and usable for compression. (makes nice smooth ride)
Road race-50/50 of shock travel length exposed used for compression/Bump (handles a variety of unknowns)
Drag car-40% of shock travel length xposed 40 for compression 60 for rebound (not worried about bumps in the road or ride quality, just want to put the power back on the ground.)

Don't flame me it's not a hard rule, but a good guideline.

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wstar

Just thinking about basic physics with simple objects (as in your earlier example with 4 guys), this doesn't seem right? I realize with a suspension system there's a lot more going on, but think of the extremes with a simple static object: if the rear two guys kept their end 2 feet off the ground, and the front guys raised their end way up in the air (so that the object is now getting close to vertical, but not quite), wouldn't almost all of the weight be in the rear guys' hands at that point?

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GSS138

Yes and I hope my previous post made you laugh hehe. Keep in mind the goal, the car stays perfectly level.

Yes if you lower the front end 12" and raise the rear end 12", then all the weight is going to be on the front. It will be physically impossible for the two rear people to hold up the weight(unless there are giant springs back there with and incredibly stiff frame). This is why just a little bit of preload is good as well, allowing you to adjust corner weights without actually moving the ride height too much. With 50 lbs of preload on the spring when you load it on the perch, you can first set the ride height, then balance. Lot of guys will do the back first, and then tune in the front. The heavier side(our front) will make more dramatic changes throughout.

When you lower one end of the car too far, it's pretty obvious because an unusual amount of weight will be transferred. That's when your roll moment goes out of whack. so you can use that as a measurement or baseline point. It's just like when you take 400 lbs and don't bend your knees on a squat rack. Sure anyone can suspend 400 lbs on their shoulders if they don't dig too deep. Try doing it with with a full knee bend.

Think of the frame of a house, it's job is to distribute equal weight to all four corners. Even if the earth sinks 1" on one side, the frame transfers this weight around. Same with a car. However, if you completely knock out one corner of the house, then you have a real problem.

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Mitco39

All you have to do is look at the trap speeds to know that these cars cannot put the power to the ground. A 120+MPH trap speed is more than enough power to bring down the time. The 60Ft only places a small part of it too, the 1st to 2nd gear change on these cars really sucks.

You guys are right about the camber in the rear, all you have to do is some 11'ses on the highway and go back and look at your marks and see how little of tread is actually being left on the road.

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Arrvaxx

I have, will have, BC ERs. I want to keep their springs default as I think they allow for a wide range to cover applications from street, to drag, to track...I know we can get times down if we drag-mod the car and I don't want to do that. But I am willing to add bits that allow for more customization even if that customization is purely for the strip.

I have SPC rear camber arms but need to have the extended range dremel thing done. I didn't do that when I put them in and can't remove any more camber.

I had planned on picking up a cheap as hell set of wheels...super wide rear narrow front and putting DRs on the rears. I can't see anyway around this the car needs wide for the track. ...need to get one of those tire trailers.

Good point about the diff. Let's see what I can do without it.

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FPenvy

this thread is giving me bad ideas.

i really want to take my higher spot on the NA times back and i know to do so i need to adjust the camber, toe, springs, weight, etc... but i DD my car and changing all that then back to drive seems like a pain in the ass.

soooooo i'm using my credentials and looking up wrecked 370's with good engines lol

maybe a drag set-up only 370 is in my future as a project.

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Arrvaxx

I am right there with you. I am pretty sure I can get the camber and toe to zero for the strip but it will require a professional alignment to get it back to DD specs. I'm willing to fork out that cash for this quest but once I throw down what I consider to be the best I can without going full drag build I'll just stick with DD and track camber.

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FPenvy

yea im on my site now looking and i found a 2013 nismo fully intact minus interior with 17k miles going cheap. listed as bio-hazard so i'm guessing someone died in it but blood soaked interior is gone and car is perfect outside. i'm cool with it lol

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DEpointfive0

WTF? Pics? Link?

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FPenvy

no price yet since it's a preview and no date for the auction set yet. it's a new listing. its in Cali. no link since it's tied to my username on the site and probably wont work for you guys lol

andddd the pic size for some reason exceeds the forum limit? wtf lol

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DEpointfive0

I think 0 toe and camber is the best for DD, no idea why you need rear camber or toe for the streets and when you mash the loud pedal the car camber/toes in anyways

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Arrvaxx

You know what I always say when someone dies..."Can I have his stuff?"

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FPenvy

well if that one goes cheap i may be interested lol

its literally a brand new nismo with no interior. perfect drag starter set-up lol

give me a carbon fiber race seat, some suspension work, plus some breather mods and it's on it's way.

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Read T

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Arrvaxx

Hey! No thread hijacking to jerks!

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