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Base Brakes Track Day

Originally Posted by Wigjiggy Thanks. I’m on the sport setup, so I’ll check what Cossie has out there. You were running base brakes?

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Old 02-08-2020, 12:44 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Wigjiggy View Post
Thanks. I’m on the sport setup, so I’ll check what Cossie has out there.
You were running base brakes?
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Old 02-08-2020, 01:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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You were running base brakes?
No. Have the Ake Sport.
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Old 02-08-2020, 01:53 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I even have brake pads, 3 different types. I actually have some datalogs to compare them. Let me get back to you

I have carbotech, cobalt friction and buddy club. Let me know if anyone needs some good track pads.

My car is gone...
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Old 02-08-2020, 04:33 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cossie1600 View Post
I even have brake pads, 3 different types. I actually have some datalogs to compare them. Let me get back to you

I have carbotech, cobalt friction and buddy club. Let me know if anyone needs some good track pads.

My car is gone...
You got rid of it?
Did you ever replace the rear springs like in the other thread?
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Old 02-08-2020, 08:47 PM   #20 (permalink)
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No sold it with the car, the new owner took it
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Old 02-08-2020, 10:06 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I put the Z1 2 piece rotors, stillen brake ducts and some Hawk HP plus pads and Motul fluid in and absolutely beat on my brakes at the track. those Z1 rotors make a BIG difference. if you are going to get serious about hitting the track you really need to get your brakes sorted. The problem with brake management is that you really don't know how close to fade/fail you re getting. over engineer your brakes for bullet proof track performance and you will not regret it.

you probably need to run two sets of pads, Street and track. Hawk street pads are good all around for the road, but maybe consider DTC 60s or 70s for your track day pads (swapping is an easy maybe 20 minute job). Do not run track pads around town, youll rear end somebody because race pads only really work when up to temp and are super hard on rotors when cold.

I usually just swap in track pads when I'm throwing on my track wheels (R888Rs currently)

I really think its worth investing in a pretty comprehensive brake upgrade and probably some track wheels (saves you money in the long run), if your going to spend any real time at the track.

have fun!!!!
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Old 02-09-2020, 02:04 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SurfDog View Post
I put the Z1 2 piece rotors, stillen brake ducts and some Hawk HP plus pads and Motul fluid in and absolutely beat on my brakes at the track. those Z1 rotors make a BIG difference. if you are going to get serious about hitting the track you really need to get your brakes sorted. The problem with brake management is that you really don't know how close to fade/fail you re getting. over engineer your brakes for bullet proof track performance and you will not regret it.

you probably need to run two sets of pads, Street and track. Hawk street pads are good all around for the road, but maybe consider DTC 60s or 70s for your track day pads (swapping is an easy maybe 20 minute job). Do not run track pads around town, youll rear end somebody because race pads only really work when up to temp and are super hard on rotors when cold.

I usually just swap in track pads when I'm throwing on my track wheels (R888Rs currently)

I really think its worth investing in a pretty comprehensive brake upgrade and probably some track wheels (saves you money in the long run), if your going to spend any real time at the track.

have fun!!!!
I have your exact setup SurfDog. Now I’m grappling with ice mode. Put me four wheels off multiple times. Have you encountered this? If so would love to hear how you deal with it. I’m trying ABS delete with DIY bias adjuster in a few months. Will be “interesting” to say the least.
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Old 02-09-2020, 02:52 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Try pads with less aggressive bites. On my last track day with the cobalt friction, the ice mode problem was way better. Now it could also be my rebuilt calipers too, but I definitely had more confidence in my brakes compare to last day when I had the carbotech
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Old 02-09-2020, 03:33 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cossie1600 View Post
Try pads with less aggressive bites. On my last track day with the cobalt friction, the ice mode problem was way better. Now it could also be my rebuilt calipers too, but I definitely had more confidence in my brakes compare to last day when I had the carbotech
Thanks! I’ll look into Cobalt Friction. Are there particular cobalt friction pads that are best for hard track work?
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Old 02-09-2020, 04:50 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Default Base Brakes Track Day

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wigjiggy View Post
I have your exact setup SurfDog. Now I’m grappling with ice mode. Put me four wheels off multiple times. Have you encountered this? If so would love to hear how you deal with it. I’m trying ABS delete with DIY bias adjuster in a few months. Will be “interesting” to say the least.


Never. Thank goodness.

Possibly try this??

https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...n-control.html
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Last edited by SurfDog; 02-09-2020 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 02-09-2020, 05:09 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfDog View Post
I put the Z1 2 piece rotors, stillen brake ducts and some Hawk HP plus pads and Motul fluid in and absolutely beat on my brakes at the track. those Z1 rotors make a BIG difference. if you are going to get serious about hitting the track you really need to get your brakes sorted. The problem with brake management is that you really don't know how close to fade/fail you re getting. over engineer your brakes for bullet proof track performance and you will not regret it.

you probably need to run two sets of pads, Street and track. Hawk street pads are good all around for the road, but maybe consider DTC 60s or 70s for your track day pads (swapping is an easy maybe 20 minute job). Do not run track pads around town, youll rear end somebody because race pads only really work when up to temp and are super hard on rotors when cold.

I usually just swap in track pads when I'm throwing on my track wheels (R888Rs currently)

I really think its worth investing in a pretty comprehensive brake upgrade and probably some track wheels (saves you money in the long run), if your going to spend any real time at the track.

have fun!!!!
Awesome, just the input I was looking for! The Z is going to be my track only car from here on out. I've done plenty of autocross in other cars and did my first track day in the z last summer and loved it. Was looking at various BBK but I think for my purposes, the Z1 rotors and Akebono calipers will be sufficient. I'm sure there's peace of mind (and tons of $$) when it comes to stoptechs, brembo, AP Racing, but are those overkill for a 5+ track days per year for the foreseeable future?
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Old 02-09-2020, 05:24 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I only had ducts and pads, did double digit track days with the car. Near the end, I was having weird ice mode issues, swapped the beat up calipers out and got less aggressive pads. It was back to what I expected. As I said before, I did start to manage my brakes better. Most of hte time I don't even finish the 25 minute session, between the fuel starvation and the brakes, I am not sure what is more annoying. I did lap nearly a full second faster, likely due to having more confidence in the brakes. My wife is using the computer that has the datalog, but I can break it down to see how different pads behave
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Old 02-09-2020, 07:05 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Never. Thank goodness.

Possibly try this??

https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...n-control.html
370Z forum

DIY Yaw Sensor rocker switch
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Old 02-10-2020, 08:59 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfDog View Post
Never. Thank goodness.

Possibly try this??

https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...n-control.html
Disconnected the YAW a while back. Didn’t see a difference in the ice mode issue. Bosch racing ABS is probably the real solution, but that’s serious $$$
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Old 02-11-2020, 02:44 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I listed them in the for sale section. I have a set of Cobalt Friction with only one track day. Project Mu with about 40-50% in F and brand new in rear. Carbotech brand new in the back XP8.

I reviewed the datalog, no noticeable change in breaking power. I only noted some ice mode moment when I was running the Project Mu F and Carbotech R on one of them.

Ice Mode

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2kwhipklxs...e%201.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/do9prlvya9...%20CT.png?dl=0
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