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Call these guys and order some straighteners cut to the diameter of the inlet pipes. Install (with epoxy) directly before the MAFs. That flutter will go away. Honeycomb for MAF
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#1 (permalink) |
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Call these guys and order some straighteners cut to the diameter of the inlet pipes. Install (with epoxy) directly before the MAFs. That flutter will go away.
Honeycomb for MAF |
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the honeycomb may be the ticket to get the air going through the tubes right but I still believe blocking direct air especially to the lower filter is the real fix otherwise you will always have the lower MAF reading higher than the upper even though it will always be the same going into the engine.
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Sounds like a philosophical/existential debate! But I agree that honeycombs or extended intake tubes would probably help. I prefer the Honeycomb option theoretically if only because the added weight at the nose of this already nose heavy car would be less. BTW I am currently in communication with Stillen on this issue and they are working on it as we speak. |
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Only one bank is reported to the OBD CAN system, that can be confirmed with a hair dryer and any logging tool. That said, maybe the ECU still sees both readings and uses them. I can't say for certain. In the end, the temperature differential between the two sensors mounted inches apart can't be so large as to matter, in a forced induction setup. And the car would soon learn around any potential issue at the time of flashing. That's what learned fuel trim is for, after all. ![]() |
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I plan on putting some 4:1 or 5:1's in my intakes when I rebuild them. Should clean up the idle. |
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