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Topgunz - air to air upgrade

Originally Posted by TBatt My AEM Boost/AFR gauge has logging built in. It can also log rpm along with boost pressure and AFR. What I need is a signal to

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Old 06-23-2016, 10:26 AM   #766 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TBatt View Post
My AEM Boost/AFR gauge has logging built in. It can also log rpm along with boost pressure and AFR. What I need is a signal to get the rpm info from. I might be able to use the crank angle sensor, or an injector, or possible the 12v coil wire.



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Sorry bud. Misread what you were actually looking for. There has to be a singal you can tap into but I don't know which one.
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Old 06-23-2016, 12:26 PM   #767 (permalink)
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No problem. I sent an email to the AEM tech department to find out what the input signal level can be. May be that will give me an idea of what to tap into.
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Old 06-23-2016, 01:02 PM   #768 (permalink)
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EVO, let us know how the dyno goes today. I'm interested in what you think about that impeller compared to the SI.
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:17 PM   #769 (permalink)
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StillenZ84, did you dyno yet?
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:26 PM   #770 (permalink)
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Not happening for me this Saturday, fuel pump problem. Pressure dropped to 40 psi and then got worse. Now at 10 psi!
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:29 PM   #771 (permalink)
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Ouch. Tough break Tim. The good news is, it's always faster the second time! Just remember to keep that blue o ring free of gas or it will expand.
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:15 PM   #772 (permalink)
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Been there, done that. Dang saddle tank hose was twisted and took forever to get the lock released. Meanwhile gas was dripping on the o ring. I had to use rtv to seal the pump. Why in the world did Nissan use a o ring that was not compatible with gas on a gas tank. Duh.

Now that I have made the mistake, the CORRECT way to remove the fuel pump is to 1. unbolt and remove the retainer ring 2. lift up the pump a couple of inches 3. remove the O-ring by carefully sliding it off of the top of the pump assembly. With the O-ring removed you can drip fuel all you want. Replace the O-ring the same way. Place the pump in the fuel tank FIRST then slide the O-ring over the top. Re-install retainer ring.

BTW: RockAuto.com does stock the O-ring
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Last edited by TBatt; 06-27-2016 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 06-25-2016, 09:15 PM   #773 (permalink)
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Waiting for dyno results from you all... Ready to see the power!
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Last edited by 2016; 06-25-2016 at 11:52 PM. Reason: Made it sound like I dyno with A2A
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:26 AM   #774 (permalink)
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Topgunz,
I am considering purchasing your air to air setup and wanted to ask you is there any reason you can't leave the Stillen water to air parts on?
I mean leaving on the water radiator, the water pump for it and the manifold intercooler and just using it all with your kit instead of removing it. Maybe it might cool things even better?
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:08 AM   #775 (permalink)
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It would be in the way of the new intercooler, and would most likely make it run hotter. Also, weren't you the one claiming he'd never need more power and giving topgunz a ration of **** in this very thread?

EDIT - Yep, that was you. Throwing rocks at the guy trying to improve on the kit, and then doing a 180 and coming back to buy the upgrade? If I were him I'd tell you to go pound sand.

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TopgunZ, are you sure you're working all this out correctly and accurately?
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I'm not greedy and will never want more HP than what I get now, it's more than enough. I'd rather leave things alone and have the thing stay reliable and not stuff around with it endlessly.
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:21 AM   #776 (permalink)
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Lookout chuck is on his morning rant. I often get a kick out of listen to you keeping these guys in line, Keep up the good work buddy..
Chuck needs to be our forum attorney...



Btw how is the old gtm kit holding up these days??



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It would be in the way of the new intercooler, and would most likely make it run hotter. Also, weren't you the one claiming he'd never need more power and giving topgunz a ration of **** in this very thread?

EDIT - Yep, that was you. Throwing rocks at the guy trying to improve on the kit, and then doing a 180 and coming back to buy the upgrade? If I were him I'd tell you to go pound sand.

Last edited by COSMO; 06-27-2016 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:30 AM   #777 (permalink)
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Well, as Chuck said, you stated you want this thing to be as reliable as it can be. Why would you want to add complexity into the system then? Anytime you have more "stuff" on a car there is more stuff to maintain.

Go read the numerous threads on "My stillen water pump isnt working".

Do you want a big block of aluminum in your manifold doing nothing but blocking air flow and possibly, no more like probably, increasing the intake temps? The temps on the air to air are around 20* above ambient with zero heatsoak. All that aluminum plug is going to do is heatsoak and bring those intake temps back up.
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:40 AM   #778 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Chuck needs to be our forum attorney...
Don't you put that evil on me, Ricky Bobby.


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Btw how is the old gtm kit holding up these days??
Solid as a rock, but I'm always keeping my eyes out for a set of spare manifolds.
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:03 AM   #779 (permalink)
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I may be able get you a pair, let me see what I can do.. Trying to get up with sam these days is Very hard...
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:32 AM   #780 (permalink)
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Top is VERY correct! The Stillen heat exchanger that goes in the intake manifold is very restrictive. When you hold it up to a light you can barely see through it. I was totally blown away at how much blockage the Stillen part has. I'll be glad to post a picture but you won't be able to see anything except aluminum.
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