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Originally Posted by TBatt I got my AFR/Boost gauge as well as my oil pressure guages installed last night. Now I can see what is going on with AFR. I'm
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#1 (permalink) | |
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Mine was a custom tune Water to Air too A2A idled crappy, didn't really boost. its not your install, its the tune. youll be fine
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#2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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I can't speak from experience as I don't have a A2A kit....but I can tell u that generally the Stillen tune is Junk....it's only designed to get u to a shop/dyno so that u can properly get dialed in.... I wouldn't doubt this is ur issue. The A2A kit is running more air into the system and is also designed with the MAFS post blower.....this isnt the way the Stillen set up is and the canned tune is designed for their system not A2A.
I personally had to go thru a couple tunes before my car was driveable....1st can tune started the car but was pig rich that I couldn't drive the car in any gear past 3K rpm before AFR'S hit the 9's on regular street driving....no where near 1/2 or WOT....idle was a bit rough but in the same AFR zones as you. Even after a few maps car just didn't feel right....ended up going with Seb and EcuTek...all I can say is its been the best investment I've made. I wouldn't stress about it and would just wait til the tune/dyno....that should straighten out things
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2013 Nismo Z34 / FI TT #091 / IG: @lilzilla_z34 Last edited by BOLIO 671; 06-22-2016 at 08:51 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Thanks guys!!! I have been trying to figure out what I did wrong.
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Yup. All in the tune. Even after i had a tune done mine hunted a bit but i knew that tuner was junk and he rushed my tune faster than ive ever seen. It was even backfiring when dropping a gear at low rpms. He was blaming it on the software (uprev).
I took my car to a different tuner who did an amazing job and my rpm hunt was gone and so was the backfiring. A good tuner is priceless.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Just finished a quick drive over to see my dad at the nursing home. Steady 75 mph AFR is 14.4. I'm safe to drive to Z1 tomorrow.
![]() Question: Do any of you know where a good tach signal is for my data logger? Is there one at the ECU?
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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I use my scan gauge and it reads tach. All that comes from the ECU, so yes. UpRev will give it to you in a log if you choose to log that parameter. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Wideband Failsafe Gauge | AEM
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! |
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#8 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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Sorry bud. Misread what you were actually looking for. There has to be a singal you can tap into but I don't know which one. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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No problem. I sent an email to the AEM tech department to find out what the input signal level can be. May be that will give me an idea of what to tap into.
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Not happening for me this Saturday, fuel pump problem. Pressure dropped to 40 psi and then got worse. Now at 10 psi!
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! |
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#13 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Ouch. Tough break Tim. The good news is, it's always faster the second time! Just remember to keep that blue o ring free of gas or it will expand.
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#14 (permalink) |
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Been there, done that. Dang saddle tank hose was twisted and took forever to get the lock released. Meanwhile gas was dripping on the o ring. I had to use rtv to seal the pump. Why in the world did Nissan use a o ring that was not compatible with gas on a gas tank. Duh.
Now that I have made the mistake, the CORRECT way to remove the fuel pump is to 1. unbolt and remove the retainer ring 2. lift up the pump a couple of inches 3. remove the O-ring by carefully sliding it off of the top of the pump assembly. With the O-ring removed you can drip fuel all you want. Replace the O-ring the same way. Place the pump in the fuel tank FIRST then slide the O-ring over the top. Re-install retainer ring. BTW: RockAuto.com does stock the O-ring
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! Last edited by TBatt; 06-27-2016 at 08:53 AM. |
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