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Topgunz - air to air upgrade

Originally Posted by TBatt I got my AFR/Boost gauge as well as my oil pressure guages installed last night. Now I can see what is going on with AFR. I'm

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Old 06-22-2016, 08:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I got my AFR/Boost gauge as well as my oil pressure guages installed last night. Now I can see what is going on with AFR.

I'm having a weird problem with idle and it could be the canned Stillen tune at fault.

With the A/C turned off, I get a hunting idle speed that varies about 1K rpm at times. It will run perfectly smooth and then hunt and then settle back down. The Boost gauge shows close to 30 inches of vacuum. When I turn the A/C on the rpm jumps up to just over 1K and the engine stops hunting at idle. AF ratio at warm idle is 14.4 - 14.6 which looks ok.

This may be stupid on my part but to me it looks like the tune has a problem with idle air flow. I have checked and the BOV is open and air is flowing out of it and I have performed the Idle Air Flow Calibration. That helped a lot but it didn't cure the symptoms.

The engine seems happy everywhere except idle with the A/C turned off. Weird.

Any ideas. The EcuTec tune is scheduled for Saturday, Hopefully that will settle things down.

Any of you that has done the A2A mod have any idle issues while running the canned Stillen tune?
dont worry man, this is perfectly normal. mine did the same thing.

Mine was a custom tune Water to Air too A2A idled crappy, didn't really boost. its not your install, its the tune. youll be fine
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:46 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I can't speak from experience as I don't have a A2A kit....but I can tell u that generally the Stillen tune is Junk....it's only designed to get u to a shop/dyno so that u can properly get dialed in.... I wouldn't doubt this is ur issue. The A2A kit is running more air into the system and is also designed with the MAFS post blower.....this isnt the way the Stillen set up is and the canned tune is designed for their system not A2A.

I personally had to go thru a couple tunes before my car was driveable....1st can tune started the car but was pig rich that I couldn't drive the car in any gear past 3K rpm before AFR'S hit the 9's on regular street driving....no where near 1/2 or WOT....idle was a bit rough but in the same AFR zones as you. Even after a few maps car just didn't feel right....ended up going with Seb and EcuTek...all I can say is its been the best investment I've made. I wouldn't stress about it and would just wait til the tune/dyno....that should straighten out things
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks guys!!! I have been trying to figure out what I did wrong.
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Old 06-22-2016, 10:14 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Yup. All in the tune. Even after i had a tune done mine hunted a bit but i knew that tuner was junk and he rushed my tune faster than ive ever seen. It was even backfiring when dropping a gear at low rpms. He was blaming it on the software (uprev).

I took my car to a different tuner who did an amazing job and my rpm hunt was gone and so was the backfiring. A good tuner is priceless.
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Old 06-22-2016, 01:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Just finished a quick drive over to see my dad at the nursing home. Steady 75 mph AFR is 14.4. I'm safe to drive to Z1 tomorrow.

Question: Do any of you know where a good tach signal is for my data logger? Is there one at the ECU?
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Old 06-22-2016, 01:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just finished a quick drive over to see my dad at the nursing home. Steady 75 mph AFR is 14.4. I'm safe to drive to Z1 tomorrow.



Question: Do any of you know where a good tach signal is for my data logger? Is there one at the ECU?


I use my scan gauge and it reads tach. All that comes from the ECU, so yes. UpRev will give it to you in a log if you choose to log that parameter.
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:52 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I use my scan gauge and it reads tach. All that comes from the ECU, so yes. UpRev will give it to you in a log if you choose to log that parameter.
My AEM Boost/AFR gauge has logging built in. It can also log rpm along with boost pressure and AFR. What I need is a signal to get the rpm info from. I might be able to use the crank angle sensor, or an injector, or possible the 12v coil wire.

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Old 06-23-2016, 10:26 AM   #8 (permalink)
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My AEM Boost/AFR gauge has logging built in. It can also log rpm along with boost pressure and AFR. What I need is a signal to get the rpm info from. I might be able to use the crank angle sensor, or an injector, or possible the 12v coil wire.



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Sorry bud. Misread what you were actually looking for. There has to be a singal you can tap into but I don't know which one.
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Old 06-23-2016, 12:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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No problem. I sent an email to the AEM tech department to find out what the input signal level can be. May be that will give me an idea of what to tap into.
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Old 06-23-2016, 01:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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EVO, let us know how the dyno goes today. I'm interested in what you think about that impeller compared to the SI.
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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StillenZ84, did you dyno yet?
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Not happening for me this Saturday, fuel pump problem. Pressure dropped to 40 psi and then got worse. Now at 10 psi!
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ouch. Tough break Tim. The good news is, it's always faster the second time! Just remember to keep that blue o ring free of gas or it will expand.
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Been there, done that. Dang saddle tank hose was twisted and took forever to get the lock released. Meanwhile gas was dripping on the o ring. I had to use rtv to seal the pump. Why in the world did Nissan use a o ring that was not compatible with gas on a gas tank. Duh.

Now that I have made the mistake, the CORRECT way to remove the fuel pump is to 1. unbolt and remove the retainer ring 2. lift up the pump a couple of inches 3. remove the O-ring by carefully sliding it off of the top of the pump assembly. With the O-ring removed you can drip fuel all you want. Replace the O-ring the same way. Place the pump in the fuel tank FIRST then slide the O-ring over the top. Re-install retainer ring.

BTW: RockAuto.com does stock the O-ring
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Last edited by TBatt; 06-27-2016 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 06-25-2016, 09:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Waiting for dyno results from you all... Ready to see the power!

Last edited by 2016; 06-25-2016 at 11:52 PM. Reason: Made it sound like I dyno with A2A
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