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Transmission Cooler

Originally Posted by Zat_Zuma Definitely NO Not designed for a transmission oil cooler But go ahead and do it and let us know how it works out Derale state both

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Old 05-26-2017, 12:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zat_Zuma View Post
Definitely NO

Not designed for a transmission oil cooler

But go ahead and do it and let us know how it works out
Derale state both the 25719 and the 25011 can be used for transmissions. Could you share your insider information?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoobieZ
What is your setup look like?
I do not have a in-line thermostat on my transmission lines. It goes from tranny -> 24 row cooler -> OEM heat exchanger -> tranny. The OEM is runs inline with the water heat exchanger, so it keeps the tranny fluid temps around 185°-190°F. The theory is to use the OEM as a regulator for fluid temp control/management. If I used an in-line I would go the route you sound like you are planning. Most would complain that I am just negating the effects of the aftermarket cooler but since it's not really ideal to have ATF cooler then 175°F I think it does just fine for my needs.
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Old 05-27-2017, 11:02 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zer099 View Post
Could you share your insider information?
Real world experience with in stand alone inline thermostats and their failures and limitations.

I'll never use a stand alone inline thermostat again as they are not reliable enough.
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Old 05-28-2017, 10:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yep, any chance of cutting off the flow to your AT is going to be sudden death. You can get coolers that auto regulate. they have different size tubes within the cooler which allow more fluid to to flow through more passages within the cooler, thus providing more cooling as the fluid heats up & thins out. B&M comes to mind for some reason

As Zat says, Do not put an inline thermostat on you AT.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zat_Zuma View Post
Real world experience with in stand alone inline thermostats and their failures and limitations.

I'll never use a stand alone inline thermostat again as they are not reliable enough.
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Old 05-28-2017, 03:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zat_Zuma View Post
Real world experience with in stand alone inline thermostats and their failures and limitations.

I'll never use a stand alone inline thermostat again as they are not reliable enough.

Could you please share which product you specifically used on which which specific make and models of cars and which years and some of the failures and limitations you speak of?

As much as I trust someone on the internet by their general words, well frankly, it is a bit difficult, too considering the lack of specificity in your posts.

Please don't take that personally.
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Interesting
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The 501ERL? Yea, that's a sexy one. I like the option of a sensor port in it, that it is rebuildable, and one would conclude that larger inlet/outlets would dictate larger passageways. That said I think the tranny lines are only 3/8th" and 5/16th". 5/8th" (10AN) is a big size jump. My biggest question is the return flow characteristics on both of them when the thermostat is closed, or if it even matters.

I've used Derale products a lot, all three of my heat exchanges are made by them. Never had an issue with them and they have done their job; that of course does not mean they are perfect, just an opinion. I have never used their (derale's) in-line thermostat. I have read the same bad reviews. I think with all bad reviews you have to try to look at it from all angles. The derale unit is a good deal cheaper then the alternatives meaning they most likely sell a crap ton more, which means more statistical odds of bad things happening. Again, opinion. I do like that Earl unit, and I've never had an issue with their fittings.
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Old 05-26-2017, 06:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I know the earl's keep it 10% open when closed fully if that's what you mean. So the derale works just as well then for daily? coolio.

What is your setup look like?
I was thinkin...
Tranny -> stock trannycooler -> derale *

* -> TrannyCooler2 -> derale -> tranny (this route when opening)

* -> tranny (when closed, theoretically, even though it is partially open)


This way I'malways measuring fluid after stock tranny cooler and if it's too hot then go through second step down.


I kind of wanted to originally do a 3line thermostatic setup, but I couldnot find such a thing that exists, a 3line thermo with characteristics set up for automobile fluids.

Tranny -> 3line Thermo *

* -> stock tranny cooler -> T line -> tranny (closed)
* -> aftermarket tranny cooler -> T line -> tranny (open)

How do you have yours setup?
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Old 05-29-2017, 01:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Real truth is that as a non-premium member, I wont really support you because you don't support the forum.

My intelligential property is mine and mine alone. I share with people, shops and manufacturers that can make a difference and that are local.

I don't really care if you like it or not ........ lol

Take my advice or don't. ...... DILLIGAF?

Case closed ....... support the forum!
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Old 05-29-2017, 01:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zat_Zuma View Post
Real truth is that as a non-premium member, I wont really support you because you don't support the forum.

My intelligential property is mine and mine alone. I share with people, shops and manufacturers that can make a difference and that are local.

I don't really care if you like it or not ........ lol

Take my advice or don't. ...... DILLIGAF?

Case closed ....... support the forum!



Once again, sad. Very sad. Anyone can pay money to have a star by your name, but to actually contribute is a whole different story.

Anyways, if anyone else has a some beneficial or helpful information please don't let zat_zuma kill this thread flow as I believe we're touching on some important information here.
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Old 05-30-2017, 12:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Zat_Zum, that's horrible. If you had a in-line thermostat failure of that magnitude I hope you filled a warranty claim. As ScoobieZ said flow should be constant to the transmission under all situation with a in-line thermostat (i mean, you can just google the diagrams), by design, unless some type of catastrophic failure happened; which would be either a manufacturing defect (warranty) or user error (instillation error, or foreign debris from transmission blocking thermostat/passageways/damaging thermostat).

I do think that regardless of the whats and whys the point being that failure is an option with these (as anything) should be considered. It gives an other check to the Earl's unit for the three sensor inputs; one of which could be exit pressure for those that wanted to know their tranny is always getting flow.
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zer099 View Post
Zat_Zum, that's horrible. If you had a in-line thermostat failure of that magnitude I hope you filled a warranty claim. As ScoobieZ said flow should be constant to the transmission under all situation with a in-line thermostat (i mean, you can just google the diagrams), by design, unless some type of catastrophic failure happened; which would be either a manufacturing defect (warranty) or user error (instillation error, or foreign debris from transmission blocking thermostat/passageways/damaging thermostat).

I do think that regardless of the whats and whys the point being that failure is an option with these (as anything) should be considered. It gives an other check to the Earl's unit for the three sensor inputs; one of which could be exit pressure for those that wanted to know their tranny is always getting flow.
ROFL ..... things we've done and sometimes failed on, don't carry warranties.
Sometimes we have to design a better mousetrap and usually the best solution is to keep it simple and functional. You may have all the gauges and kill switches in the world but its not always the best solution.

ScoobieZ: I use to post my discoveries and innovations, which vendors sell to you now, in the early years and worked with some vendors and shops. Still work with a few shops but in a limited capacity now. What I found was the more info I posted, the more questions I would receive on a daily basis and members would treat me as their personal library. It was 20 PM's a day, at its peak. So I removed most of my posts and it stopped most of the PM's.

For the most part the non-members were the rudest and most demanding and wanted everything for free, so they can berate shops for a deal or cheaper parts and demand/expect you to comply to their demands.

The way the 350Z forum is now and just before it was sold. Support the370Z Forum or you will lose it. I'm already checked out lol..... I'm retired

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Old 06-01-2017, 11:51 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I've been running a Mishimoto heavy duty trans cooler inline with my OE radiator for the last three years. All appears to be good since the install. I haven't been using a thermostat , fyi.

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Old 09-21-2017, 12:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Use the Trucool 40k, works great for my RE5R05A. Plus it handles toting around 5200lbs of truck.

I know its on a truck, but the principal is still the same. This is a cheap and effective option.

LPD47391 (Trucool 40k) 8.5"x22.75"x1.25" (height x length x thickness)



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Old 10-27-2017, 10:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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SO I'll jump in here. I'm tracking my G37 and the AT doesn't like the extra heat at all. I get heavy shifts after about 3 laps. I'm jumping between swapping the fluid for synthetic or adding a cooler. Or both actually. But I also read that the trans is a sealed system and should only be drained and filled, not flushed. Too many choices.
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Old 07-18-2018, 01:06 AM   #15 (permalink)
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A good trans cooler option that is a low pressure drop bar and plate style would be the Trucool SR4588.

Fluids you'd want to use Nissan Matic-S or compatible. Such as Castrol Transmax Full synthetic multivehicle. Staying on top of your service intervals is equally important, and further compounded on how you drive the vehicle.

For the RE5R05A and RE7R01A/B there are shift kits available. Level 10 offers valve body upgrades for both with upgraded solenoids, their own shift kit, and revisions to parts that are prone to failure. SONNAX is also provides valvebody upgrades and replacement parts for the RE5R05A, not sure of the RE7 though.

Transgo offers shift kit for the RE5R05A as well. (not the RE7)

The above coupled with a competent tuner who can adjust your expected torque values in Uprev (not sure with EcuTek), your 5spd or 7spd should handle whatever you throw at it for many years, especially being naturally aspirated.

Be mindful of fluid temp before going beating the piss out of the vehicle under WOT as well.

If you want to further upgrade your transmission, Level 10 has a full build options where they use the aformentioned valvebody upgrade, but also include Borg Warner clutch packs (frictions), +1 extra frictions in the Input and Direct drums for better holding capacity, modified/enlarged fluid pump, cryo treated output shaft option, etc etc. (for the RE5R05A, the RE7 gets similar upgrades). Apparently the owner of Level 10 (Pat) is good friends with whoever manages the clutch/friction division of Borg Warner.

You could go as far as to WPC treating or REM finishing the planetary gear sets, shaft splines too if you wanted.

Albeit, no transmission tuning short of what uprev/ecuteck allows. I guess you could try for PCS-2000 Powertrain control systems standalone and purchase their harness with software to try it out.

Or wait and see if HPtuners provides support for either transmission (doubtful, but hopeful).

Lastly, once Circle D Specialties finishes my converter for my Titan, they may be willing to start production with the Re5r05a converters tailored to your build. I imagine if someone sent in a 7spd RE7 factory stock converter to build they would do so. They are building a billet cnc stator for mine that is one off. But will allow a basis to start from. Its another option over Level 10 and Edge.

So yeah, get a transmission cooler.
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