Best sway bars and endlinks for 370z?

synolimit

Everyone's hollow but whiteline. They're 32x7mm.

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13 370z-

Gibby1113

Whitelines are good but they're pricey. Wonder if they're worth the price. Wonder why hotchkis are more expensive if they aren't even solid.

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40th anniversary #450/1000 | Takeda Attack CAI | Ark DTS exhaust | to be continued...

Super Werty

a solid bar is not necessarily stronger/stiffer.

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The Build

synolimit

When twisting a straight bar back and forth, WL vs Hotch vs eibach, Hotch is the strongest. It doesn't matter that its hollow. The more area makes up for it. It's called motion of inertia. WL is like 2.61cm^4, Hotch is 5.45cm^4 and eibach like 3.23cm^4. So even hollow it's almost double the strength.

HOWEVER...mounting holes play a role. If the Hotch is like 12" away from the bars center and the WL is like 10.8 on the first hole and 11.5" on the second hole, it gets some of that loss back. Not sure if it shoots to the lead but you get the idea. Only way to know is to measure each bar and if they're all the same really than the Hotch wins.

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13 370z-

G37sHKS

HotChkis with SPL end links = Game over.

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Gibby1113

Haven't heard anything about cusco or hedwig (forgot how to spell it).

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40th anniversary #450/1000 | Takeda Attack CAI | Ark DTS exhaust | to be continued...

chrisbeltre

Eibach front and rear, Whiteline rear end links. BC coils, Michelin PSS. 6 track days at the Nurbergring 0 issues, handles amazing.

ValidusVentus

I have a few inputs. I would not recommend the WL bars, because they are solid. The inner material does very little to contribute to the twisting resistance of the bar. This translates to noticeably increased mass with very little gain. Race cars use hollow bars for a reason. I would also question putting a stiffer bar in the front especially while simultaneously removing the rear bar. This might be an OK setup for a drag car (except you might remove the front bar entirely for weight savings) but you will end up with GROSS under steer in low speed corners with those changes. Stock, the car already under steers at the limit, either of those changes by themselves would make the under steer worse but together, man, I would think it'd be tough to go around a corner at all lol. More of the cars mass is already over the front tires so in order to get your weight transfer and hence, grip, somewhat even you need to have more roll resistance on the rear of the car from roll bars assuming you stay with stock spring rates.

Edit (a year later): I ended up buying a WL rear ARB -and pairing it with an Eibach F ARB- since you can purchase it separate and its adjustable and its not that stiff. Looks like by adding camber, tire size and track width to the front end you can more than offset a stiffer front bar. Though I believe its still a better idea to get a larger portion of your total roll resistance from your springs rather than a stiff ARB since it minimizes adding a huge variable resistance spring -tough for dampers to dampen- to the suspension and allows the wheels to work more independently. Not there yet.

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Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. ||| Valkyrie Autosport |||

cossie1600

I was in your camp until I saw how little a set of stiff springs did for the car, the sway bar is very important in controlling the sway on the car.

ValidusVentus

Interesting, I'd be in interested to know which rates you were going from and to on the F/R. Are you speaking of just reducing the feel of body roll or actually changing the balance of grip at the limit?

Edit: could this be cause by unfavorable dynamic camber angles being generated when the car is at maximum roll? The only other thing I could think of is chassis rigidity or bushing deflection being way...bad -which I don't think is the case. If so should that be corrected by a change in static camber or or running a different bar? Cause we can't just change physics, the end of the car with a more highly loaded outside tire is going to have less grip assuming ideal tire contact patch and tire temperature/size.

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Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. ||| Valkyrie Autosport |||

synolimit

If you google sway bars that seems correct. Everyone here though would disagree. More front, less rear.

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13 370z-

GSS138

Yeah "the more bar up front causes understeer" is only true once you have too much bar. This happens because it causes load from the inside tire to push onto the loaded outside tire. However until you reach that threshold, more bar up front is generally a good thing.

There are other ways to fix understeer, is what it comes down to. Primary purpose of the sway bar is to reduce body roll, however a side effect of a antisway bar is that it causes some load to be transferred to the outside tire-which ends up causing "push". Push in the front is understeer, push in the rear is oversteer.

Body roll itself does not cause that much understeer mathematically. But it is scary as hell and destabilizes everything when you are going through the esses for example. So the more correct way of looking at it is that a anti sway bar is there to prevent body roll, however when you use one, it is going to affect the way the car handles in terms of under/oversteer. If you did have "too much front bar" yes the front would "push" around the corner.

However I think a better way to solve it would be stiffer front springs, damper settings, and tuning the rear sway correctly which are all valid ways to get the car to rotate. All of those would be better than "not enough front bar to reduce body roll to an acceptable level".


That's my interpretation of it anyway.

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

ValidusVentus

Points well made.

Yes the transient responses would definitely be crisper with a stiffer front bar and the car might take a set faster. Turn in would be more direct as well and front end feel would be improved but is it actually causing a gain of absolute grip at the front?

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Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. ||| Valkyrie Autosport |||

GSS138

Tough question to answer. I mean theoretically no, tires are tires and that's it. The body roll itself is not that terrible of a dynamic when talking in terms of total grip. But the bouncy trouncy-ness in my opinion is a very bad dynamic that causes the driver to pause and correct things that don't need to be corrected based on "feel". The body wavering around is also going to cause some loss in grip due to load transfers and just driver uneasiness/unsettling the car.

At the same time a car that is "rolling" over meaning that it has rolled too far, and it is causing some type of camber or roll moment problem, is obviously not acceptable either and needs a sway to tame it. The OEM suspension on this car hits that point quite easily. I can tell you that I could roll this car's front suspension over by probably my 5th track day. Mainly through any type of mid speed esses. Stiffer springs aren't going to help that if the car "falls" off from body roll. There's a point where roll is acceptable vs. losing a little bit of overall theoretical grip in order to not have the car feeling like I'm on a raft.

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

ValidusVentus

You are of course free to dismiss my opinion, my goal was only to aid the op in making an informed decision by offering my personal experience and knowledge. I have no desire to get into an argument. You may be completely correct. Hope everyone has a great day.

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Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. ||| Valkyrie Autosport |||