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I have a few inputs. I would not recommend the WL bars, because they are solid. The inner material does very little to contribute to the twisting resistance of the
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I have a few inputs. I would not recommend the WL bars, because they are solid. The inner material does very little to contribute to the twisting resistance of the bar. This translates to noticeably increased mass with very little gain. Race cars use hollow bars for a reason. I would also question putting a stiffer bar in the front especially while simultaneously removing the rear bar. This might be an OK setup for a drag car (except you might remove the front bar entirely for weight savings) but you will end up with GROSS under steer in low speed corners with those changes. Stock, the car already under steers at the limit, either of those changes by themselves would make the under steer worse but together, man, I would think it'd be tough to go around a corner at all lol. More of the cars mass is already over the front tires so in order to get your weight transfer and hence, grip, somewhat even you need to have more roll resistance on the rear of the car from roll bars assuming you stay with stock spring rates.
Edit (a year later): I ended up buying a WL rear ARB -and pairing it with an Eibach F ARB- since you can purchase it separate and its adjustable and its not that stiff. Looks like by adding camber, tire size and track width to the front end you can more than offset a stiffer front bar. Though I believe its still a better idea to get a larger portion of your total roll resistance from your springs rather than a stiff ARB since it minimizes adding a huge variable resistance spring -tough for dampers to dampen- to the suspension and allows the wheels to work more independently. Not there yet. Last edited by ValidusVentus; 01-31-2015 at 03:57 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Washington State
Posts: 400
Drives: #18 Z34
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Edit: could this be cause by unfavorable dynamic camber angles being generated when the car is at maximum roll? The only other thing I could think of is chassis rigidity or bushing deflection being way...bad -which I don't think is the case. If so should that be corrected by a change in static camber or or running a different bar? Cause we can't just change physics, the end of the car with a more highly loaded outside tire is going to have less grip assuming ideal tire contact patch and tire temperature/size. Last edited by ValidusVentus; 01-13-2014 at 04:09 PM. |
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