boosted DD with occasional 1/4 mi set up help.

YzGyz · 11-17-2015, 03:09 PM

Will doing that kill my tires during DD? I do most of the driving as DD. I don't want to compromise tire life all month for 1 or 2 days at the track.

Trying to do track things with a DD is a so much of a compromise. They really are not interchangable. I'm not trying to do track dedicated times. I'm just trying to get 11's.

Can I adjust this myself? I'm thinking not.

YzGyz

FPenvy · 11-17-2015, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YzGyz

Will doing that kill my tires during DD? I do most of the driving as DD. I don't want to compromise tire life all month for 1 or 2 days at the track.

Trying to do track things with a DD is a so much of a compromise. They really are not interchangable. I'm not trying to do track dedicated times. I'm just trying to get 11's.

Can I adjust this myself? I'm thinking not.

YzGyz

probably will increase tire life but lose a slight bit of handling if you go carve a backroad or something. with even the OEM camber wears out the inside of the rears pretty quickly.

rear camber arms can be adjusted by you but without an alignment machine i'm not sure how you could dial in and out camber and be exact aside from maybe marking lines on the arms where flat and DD normal camber is?

not really a suspension guru for these cars as I live in PA and DD mine so no suspension mods on mine lol someone else may have to shed morel ight on that for you.

Rusty · 11-17-2015, 09:18 PM

Another thing you can do is to change all of the rubber bushings in the rear to spherical bearings. SPL parts. Rubber bushings let the suspension move around.

Next would be shocks adjustable for both compression and rebound. Adjust the front shock full soft on rebound and full stiff on compression. This will let to front of the car come up quicker and hold it there longer. More weight transferred to the rear. Two ways to adjust the rear shocks. Adjusted the rear shocks full stiff on compression and about 50% to 75% on rebound. This will make the rear harder to squat and will not let the rear raise up to quickly. Or adjust the rear shocks full soft on compression and full stiff on rebound. This lets the rear end squat and not let it raise to quickly.

MAMotorsports · 11-18-2015, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Another thing you can do is to change all of the rubber bushings in the rear to spherical bearings. SPL parts. Rubber bushings let the suspension move around.

Next would be shocks adjustable for both compression and rebound. Adjust the front shock full soft on rebound and full stiff on compression. This will let to front of the car come up quicker and hold it there longer. More weight transferred to the rear. Two ways to adjust the rear shocks. Adjusted the rear shocks full stiff on compression and about 50% to 75% on rebound. This will make the rear harder to squat and will not let the rear raise up to quickly. Or adjust the rear shocks full soft on compression and full stiff on rebound. This lets the rear end squat and not let it raise to quickly.

Be careful with full solid bushings on drag applications. Its not normally the rubber that is causing the issues as far as wheel hop and traction. Maybe the diff bushing, but when you go solid on the others you start to see broken axles and broken diffs, as the rubber helps absorb some of the "shock" on launch.

As for what may help, good shocks and good tires will be the best bet, nail in a good alignment. What are you tuned on? ECUtek has some real nice traction control options that may be of help also.

All comes down to budget, if you can put up between $1200-24000 for shocks we can get you a set built to your needs. Tires will be all over in price depending on what you choose.

The best thing, will be practice. The more you take the car to the track, the better you will get at driving it.

Rusty · 11-18-2015, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAMotorsports

Be careful with full solid bushings on drag applications. Its not normally the rubber that is causing the issues as far as wheel hop and traction. Maybe the diff bushing, but when you go solid on the others you start to see broken axles and broken diffs, as the rubber helps absorb some of the "shock" on launch.

As for what may help, good shocks and good tires will be the best bet, nail in a good alignment. What are you tuned on? ECUtek has some real nice traction control options that may be of help also.

All comes down to budget, if you can put up between $1200-24000 for shocks we can get you a set built to your needs. Tires will be all over in price depending on what you choose.

The best thing, will be practice. The more you take the car to the track, the better you will get at driving it.

I've found that the rubber bushings in the Z will let the suspension move enough to cause issues. Plus they do not move freely in the intended direction.

MAMotorsports · 11-18-2015, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

I've found that the rubber bushings in the Z will let the suspension move enough to cause issues. Plus they do not move freely in the intended direction.

Is it any specific bushing you have found that causes the most issue? Im normally a fan of the Urethane or Nismo bushings (If they are around) over a full spherical for a street/Occasional track car.

Rusty · 11-18-2015, 11:23 AM

There is deflection in all of the bushings. You add each bushing together with the rest. It makes for alot of monkey motion. And there is enough stiction in the bushings. If you remove the springs. The knuckles will stay in place. They will not droop down. I've replaced all of my front bushings with SPL bearings. Planning on doing the rear this winter.

11-17-2015, 03:09 PM	#1 (permalink)
YzGyz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,449 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 65	Will doing that kill my tires during DD? I do most of the driving as DD. I don't want to compromise tire life all month for 1 or 2 days at the track. Trying to do track things with a DD is a so much of a compromise. They really are not interchangable. I'm not trying to do track dedicated times. I'm just trying to get 11's. Can I adjust this myself? I'm thinking not. YzGyz __________________ http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...gyzs-turn.html YzGyz

11-17-2015, 09:18 PM	#3 (permalink)
Rusty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 70 Posts: 35,579 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684440	Another thing you can do is to change all of the rubber bushings in the rear to spherical bearings. SPL parts. Rubber bushings let the suspension move around. Next would be shocks adjustable for both compression and rebound. Adjust the front shock full soft on rebound and full stiff on compression. This will let to front of the car come up quicker and hold it there longer. More weight transferred to the rear. Two ways to adjust the rear shocks. Adjusted the rear shocks full stiff on compression and about 50% to 75% on rebound. This will make the rear harder to squat and will not let the rear raise up to quickly. Or adjust the rear shocks full soft on compression and full stiff on rebound. This lets the rear end squat and not let it raise to quickly. FPenvy, GaleForce and Masterbeatty like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

11-18-2015, 11:23 AM	#7 (permalink)
Rusty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 70 Posts: 35,579 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684440	There is deflection in all of the bushings. You add each bushing together with the rest. It makes for alot of monkey motion. And there is enough stiction in the bushings. If you remove the springs. The knuckles will stay in place. They will not droop down. I've replaced all of my front bushings with SPL bearings. Planning on doing the rear this winter. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

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