Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin

Sanding progression... more beer....

gbrettin

Just need to wrap up some of the rough areas near the legs and clean the angle back up. All the rough sanding about wrapped up. EDIT HERE: Doesn't look like much sanding but that's 4hrs of work between the two pictures (minimum).

-update on the car. I'm still waiting on my XRP lines. Need to see when I can get Dave to help with the last chunk of wiring. I have a new gas pedal that I plan on using at the shop. Only key ingredient here is getting to the shop and grind out the last few things. I'm glad it's going to be near 100deg this week!

redondoaveb

Your parachute handle is out for delivery

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Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
700+whp

gbrettin

It's in my possession right now

redondoaveb

Perfect, hopefully it met your expectations

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Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
700+whp

gbrettin

My new parachute handle has arrived! Well, it's an e-brake handle that I will convert to a parachute handle down the road. Quality is top notch. Small things taken into consideration like the aluminum button has a nice knurl so that your thumb can grip the button easy. The finish is outstanding on all the aluminum parts. The Carbon fiber handle doesn't look like an afterthought and everything flows together. The colors are optional for all the aluminum pieces and boot. If the end result looks ugly then that's a you problem because all the parts are beautiful. You killed it Patrick! Thanks for the amazing part!

redondoaveb

Glad to be a part of your build

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Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
700+whp

gbrettin

Put on my oil lines and I have to say that the XRP lines are REALLY nice. I actually only put on the lines from the oil pan because 45's were on the turbo drains too. Turbo drain lines are getting sent back so they can have 45's and straights put on. I also decided to purchase one more line from them that connects between the filter and e85 sensor. Basically if the line leaks I am replacing it with XRP at this point. The lines are light and VERY flexible.

Transmission cabling has been pulled and plugged into the transmission. The Transmission Control Module (TCM) line can not plug into the transmission with out the brace coming off so that the transmission can sag a slight bit; but! the damn thing fits. The dimple die hole that I picked was JUST big enough to get the head of the cable through. All these small wins are huge... I'm use to doing sh1t 3-4 times due to the custom nature of the beast.

The center console was clearance using a sawzall. A few posts back I mentioned that the cable was hitting the plastic portion. FIXED. hard to hit when the piece has been cut out. lol. The carbon trim bezel needs to be trimmed back because the handle hits when I select D1 (first gear). Gear selection doesn't hit out side of that, so If I use the D selection it will be fine to use.

... I now have a functional transmission. I also have a tune that has already been worked out for that specific transmission which was used in the Auto Dynamix drag car. They had it dialed in so that it could work street or track. Basically, plug and play!

gbrettin

Have the mold roughed out how I want now. Next step is to hand sand it smooth and fill pits/sand marks with fiberglass.

Progress? Yes. Slow? Very.

I'm doing this mold when ever I can't make it to the garage and have a bit of time.

sirnixalot

Sanding sucks. I do not envy you with that task.

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2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading
2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

gbrettin

I actually chose this molding path so it would be less sanding, which would be the case if the B side of the mold was less complex with out the tall side walls. I have a way of finding the hardest paths.

gbrettin

Removed the OE pedal yesterday and successfully wedged myself in-between the seat and floor. That was fine if I didn't need to move around... BUT I decided to do the pedal after I do the wiring and brake lines due to that. While I was down there, like a fat sausage, I checked mount locations. It appears that the pedal will work!

Moving on to wiring... I extended the wire for the trans brake, extended wiring for the trans cooler, clipped in and extended wiring for the spal fan, made a couple wires for the leash board. Tested the fans (hit the power leads to the battery only) and both the trans cooler and A2W move a ton of air. It's actually going to sound like a jet in the rear of the car. lol.

I was at my car for hours and only did that. Just not a fast day getting work done. 90+ in the shop doesn't help. I will say this... Looking at the Outlaw shifter and mounting of the rear coolers and pump, I am extremely happy how the work came out. I like where the wiring is heading with the Leash but I am 100% going to clean up the terminal. I hate how all the bulky wire is coming off of it.

sirnixalot

Heat exchangers look nice and tucked up and nice gas pedal solution

Got a grommet for those 2 battery cables coming out that 1.5" hole? Not back seat modding I promise I know you're not finished everything you have to do there.

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2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading
2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

gbrettin

I actually do have a grommet for that! got them off of Amazon/Ebay for cheap. No harm no foul for asking! I'd prefer people say something just incase I miss something.

Down the road... I'll clip the trans line wires and make that into a plug too.

gbrettin

Took my car off the hoist and pushed it out so I could actually get in the car a bit more comfortable; although, the accommodations on the floor were not at all comfortable. I have somewhat broad shoulders and I consume all the available ground space which makes it difficult to operate a drill or secure the pedal correctly. Enough with the complaining...

The sound deadning material was peeled back off the wall a bit and I located a stud which was used to mount the material. An attempt was made to use an 8mm nut on it but upon further inspections I didn't like the idea of that. The stud wiggled back and forth on the wall until it gave way to a hole. I then used a step bit to drill out the hole, and actually made the hole a tad too large. I rolled the dice and was able to get the inserted thread to bite hard. That secured the bottom mount. Top mount was a bit easier because pedal was somewhat secured to mark a hole using a center punch. Drilled the hole just large enough for a bolt to come through on the back side. The base of the bolt has a square end so I think that will get yanked into the metal making a really large stud.

Now that position of the pedal has been figured out I was able to see where to bring the cable through on the firewall. Turns out it needs to go ALL the way up on the firewall where the metal creases. Used a step bit to get another hole just large enough for the threads to poke through. The cable was shortened for the wire positioning. The cable/bar bell was attached to the pedal assembly and it needed to be bent out and shortened by 1" or so because the throw of the top of the pedal hit the car. ... SO, the pedal was removed by unclipping an E clip out of a tiny bar bell located under the dash near the top. I used a pick tool and ripped the E clip off actually. Now this likely sounds uncomfortable... because it is, and it was hot inside the garage, which made it even hotter inside the car (note to self - Buy a box fan and point it in the car) . The E clips were 30cents at the local hardware store so I bought an extra. Something tells me I will lose another one.

Despite my hot boxed rage fest, I was able to snap a couple of pictures. I suspect someone will land here at some point trying to see how to install a drive by cable on a 370z. The pedal used is a Tin Soldiers Mustang Pedal:
https://tinsoldierracecars.com/produ...without-switch

Yeah, that's 220 bucks and I bent and hacked it up. lol

The cable I'm using is technically a Lokar cable but a special twin cable system was released last year for my twin intake setup. If you buy a normal cable they are 100 bucks or so? So what does Holley/Lokar charge for a special production cable system? 350 bucks.
https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...s/parts/860028