Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin

The clearview has been mounted. There are two mounts. one that mounts to the wheel well and one that the clearview mount hooks into. I probably could have just welded the metal to the fender, but I thought I wanted options for the future.

Welding the plate in was a PITA. The plate was hard to fasten down and then tack. The plate shifted slightly after I made a few tacks which required me to fill some gap. Well, while I was filling gaps I started making new holes on shock tower. My swear words used in the weld session was about as big as the weld on the shock tower. I'm not really worried about the massive amount of weld TBH. I ground down 90% of it with 60grit. The amount of metal dust created in the shop was substantial.

The access hole needs to be opened up a bit more, 2 inches of the filter doesn't clear.

Aside from that... I have hose and fittings coming from Motion Raceworks. AND..... I just remembered I need to hook up my oil cooler... Piss... I probably needed to order more hose and fittings. GD it. Actually, I think I have some hose left over. WHEW!

On a side note, I picked up another hood from Scott, well actually Damian's old hood. Thanks guys!

BettyZ

Do let us know how you're gonna get the 115 lbs of soundproofing off the hood lol. Typical EW: buys race car, thinks engine too loud.

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'14 MB Nismo | F.I. | Z1 | MotorDyne | ZSpeed | SPL | Swift | Eibach | SoulFunction | Coolerworx | Craft Square | Sparco | MAMS | EcuTek Betty Mods

Rusty

When Madwi had the 4th of July get together. We was going to use that hood for target practice.

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Group C Driver, After Mods-334HP-279Tor. STD.|F.I. LTH|CBE/12" Resonators|Stillen Gen3|285/35-19, 345/30-19 Mich PSS on 9.5x19 and 12x19 ForgeLine Rims, Nismo RC Brake Ducts,|UpRev Tuned|http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

madwi

Man, I am so glad that hood is gone. I watched the news for a story of a hood that flew off the top of a suburban and decapitated a bus load of nuns. Thankfully it looks like it made the trip South unscathed.

gbrettin

I'm surprised you guys didn't use it for target practice! lol

I told Kirk that if the hood flies off.... we keep going.

The hood will be my backup for Carbon Fiber. I need to hack my hood up for air vents and also mold humps with fiber glass. You know what. Maybe I'll stick with aluminum? I've got options and I'm not afraid to use them.

While writing that out... it makes sense that I start with the OEM hood and then push to CF later. I'm embarrassed to say how many ideas I get from typing out what I did previously.

On a side note, we're getting pretty close to the realm of starting the car.... Pending I don't have any A.D.D squirrel moments and start some side projects on the car. I'd say close is about 1 -1.5 months... My excitement is through the rough just typing that.

gbrettin

One and done kind of night. Put a layer of fiberglass on to smooth out the terrible. I told my wife I wouldn't be at the shop all night. This worked out pretty good since it needs to dry.

The metal was prepped with cleaner and then I mixed way too much fiberglass resin. The first coat looks thick, but it's not a ton on there.

Inside the wheel well the metal was sprayed with epoxy primer. At the end of this, I will drop the K-member and spray bed liner on the inside of the wheel well.

gbrettin

Few shots from the past couple nights. The shock tower cleaned up nice. It didn't take to long to sand because I have a lot of aggressive sand paper left over from carbon fiber mold making. I even used the 60grit orbital in a few spots, which made extremely quick work.

The wheel well was opened up more. I'm using a bit more caution because my eyes had metal debris from Sunday to Wed. Yes, I wear safety glasses. I will be getting a face shield as well now too. My eyes have been flushed out so many times it made them dry (2-3 times an hour flushing Mon - Wed). So yeah, that sucked. A lot.

I made a couple mounting tabs for the bottom of the hole. I will also need to do the same for the top. TBH, the tabs turned out like **** and the welding sucked because I was in a weird *** position. Top tabs should be a whole lot easier. I'm not cutting the tabs out. They work. Only thing it's doing is holding aluminum.

madwi

Be sure to let medical staff know if you go in for an MRI anytime soon. Metal in the eyes is scary deal and they will snap a pic of your eyeballs to make sure no metal and you are good to go in the magnet.

Rusty

Every time I get a MRI. I have to get x-rays of my eyes. The MRI makes the metal hot and pulls it around inside your head.

Be thankful that you didn't have to go to the hospital to get your eyes flushed. Not something you want to do. Been there.

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Group C Driver, After Mods-334HP-279Tor. STD.|F.I. LTH|CBE/12" Resonators|Stillen Gen3|285/35-19, 345/30-19 Mich PSS on 9.5x19 and 12x19 ForgeLine Rims, Nismo RC Brake Ducts,|UpRev Tuned|http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

BettyZ

Face shield is a must. I damn near blinded myself when I was 14 shooting at my school bus with roman candles... which is how I learned that if the candle doesn't go off, the one thing you Do. Not. Do. Is turn the candle around to look and see why it didn't go off...

Off-duty fireman was driving by, saw myself shoot myself in the face, and gave aid until EMS showed up. The candle ball hit right between my brows and my eyes got a nice blast of gunpowder. Contacts saved my eyes. I pulled them out right after bc pain, and when I got to the ER docs thought I was blind bc I failed vision tests.

Ever since, I put on facepro when I use anything that has a power source, be it wired, battery, or muscle.

Uvex Bionic is a nice one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VY3ACE...ing=UTF8&psc=1

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'14 MB Nismo | F.I. | Z1 | MotorDyne | ZSpeed | SPL | Swift | Eibach | SoulFunction | Coolerworx | Craft Square | Sparco | MAMS | EcuTek Betty Mods

gbrettin

Remote oil mount with access panel completed. I filled in the tabs with some fiberglass and knocked them down. That cleaned up the appearance quite a bit. Top tabs were had issues getting welded in. It turns out the welder was having issues and that's why my welds were not taking like they should. The grounding cable is having issues grounding I think.

Also, my BTR shaft mounted rockers came in. This is one of the components that will allow for my engine to spin up to 10k RPM. I need to send my transmission back in to get 1-2 billet parts and then it will be golden.

All-in-all... I really like how the remote filter turned out. It was a PITA, but worth it.


Edit - If it looks like I used a hammer on the aluminum panel.... Yes. lol

JARblue

More win here

Badass work as usual, G

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gbrettin

Not much to report other than I'm changing the location of the water pump. -20 is ridiculous. So the -20 is going to be capped off on the radiator (located on passenger side) and moved to the lower back side on the inside. I'm including a few of the -20 pictures just to show you how uncontrollably it is Also, -20 only comes in 90deg or straight. It's seriously a pain in the A$$.

I ordered a swirl pot/expansion tank(Merlin Universal Swirl Pot), bungs (-16), Davies Craig mount, and a fitting that will allow for a return from the heater core.

I'm likely going to notch the frame and weld in plate so that I can have a nice cove to mount the water pump. I just want to be sure that it's the final home before I take it to hack town.

So remember when I made that mount for the water pump so I could mount it to the front of the car... well, I'm not going to use it. Lovely right? Oh well. it happens.

I'm 75% sure the frame will be notched right near where the pump is at in the last picture. just need to firm that last 25% up.

gbrettin

This weekend I changed the remote oil filter location. The brake booster wouldn't work and I would also run into issues attempting to use manual booster, not impossible but more fittings and fab work. F that.

I must have had a rash of irritations because I removed the billet water manifold. The pump mounting was being a real pain in the a$$, as you have seen. Instead of cutting the frame and plating it in, I grabbed my buddy's Meizure water pump to test. Turns out it fits pretty well. The belt system touches so I will get the F body underdrive dampener and sell the current dampener. The Davies Craig pump will still be used for the A2W intercoolers.

Speaking of intercoolers... I found out that the intercoolers had a manufacture flaw by using half inch NPT fittings. I set up a jig on the drill press, clamped angle iron to stop it from spinning, and drilled to allow for 1" NPT. The inner end caps were cut off so that water can flow effortless to either end. 1" NPT will feed the coolers.

I'm thinking an expansion tank will go where the battery use to be. We'll see. Also, the pictures I take are always in chronilogical order. Don't think I ever said that.

Rusty

Putting 12 lbs of crap in a 10 lb bag is hard to do.

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Group C Driver, After Mods-334HP-279Tor. STD.|F.I. LTH|CBE/12" Resonators|Stillen Gen3|285/35-19, 345/30-19 Mich PSS on 9.5x19 and 12x19 ForgeLine Rims, Nismo RC Brake Ducts,|UpRev Tuned|http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html