Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

-ZS-Carpenter

gbrettin

Got a bit of shop time in last night. Mounted the turbos back on the Maven mounts. Then I put a TON of tape on the radiator, not trying to mar the chrome up.

Did a few trial and error placement stuff. I don't think the radiator will be too far off from where's at. The OE frame has a TON of mounting options. I'll use a Rivnut or bolt to an existing threaded hole if possible.

The cold side looks like I can loop up under the headlight to the A2W coolers, but that might change after I fiddle with the coolers. I'm going to attempt to use the A2W cooler faces as part of the structure to direct air out. No sense in adding material if I don't have to.

It was an easier night.. totally good with it.

Not sure if I said this in a different post; but, I plan on using the carbon fiber ducts in front to funnel air into air boxes for the turbos.

gbrettin

Additional information:

Better downforce:

More surface area:


Plus it looks clean.

gbrettin

Wrapped up the crash bar video. ... video makes it seem way quicker than what this actually was.

gbrettin

Picked up some steel and aluminum to get the mounting brackets around. I cut the Aluminum angle to length but need my buddy to TIG weld it.

First thing that was done was to trim the plastic on the radiator and tape it back off. As much as I love function, I want the parts to look good when this is all completed.

The steel portion I was able to get done. A couple holes were drilled for the mounting location and inserted nuts into the steel stock and then welded them in place. To get the location, the steel stock was held at the mounting point and a marker was used to draw the whole location. I then used a center punch directly in the middle, drilled a pilot hole and then hogged to a larger hole.

After I had the steel stock tacked onto the crash bar I needed to trim off the excess metal. The corners we poking directly into the bumper. The bumper is close to the radiator but doesn't hit. I should look into making a couple mounting points there to hold the nose of the Nismo bumper up better. A lot of older Nismo bumpers sag down a bit (not a lot).

There's limited gap on the crash bar on each. The gap will be sealed off at some point, likely when I make an air box that joins up to the Nismo bumper. Excess heavy stock will be cut out and sheet metal will be used in place.

When I posted all the pictures below in IG, the perspective was all messed up because the images get cut down.

Rusty

Question. You going to install a bleed vent near the top of the radiator?

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gbrettin

I was thinking of an inline fill near the rail and using a coolant catch from Motion Raceworks (already own)

That's the next leg, after the mounts. Haven't really got it all dialed in yet.

gbrettin

Auto Dynamix is currently remodeling the building for a new show room. Currently, work is not being done on the car because I'm helping my buddy build the show room in my free time. Burn out set in on everyone so I found a few minutes to work on my car . Slackers!

Who am I fooling, I didn't want to work that hard on the shop...

I stood around the car during some down time looking at how the cooling lines would run. I ended up mounting my Motion Raceworks overflow catch can. It had the option to be mounted with bolts... but I have a welder so I welded it. lol

The Davis Craig was pump was going to be mounted on the drivers side but my buddy said it has to push on the cold side; however, I did get the specifics correct. The pump has to be lower than the radiator. Placing the pump lower will ensure that no air gets trapped and avoid cavitation. Flip side of that, the filler needs to be higher than the system to let all the air out (this was what Rusty was getting at in an earlier post).

gbrettin

I had to edit the last post because it was not even readable. I rushed to get a post up... lol

gbrettin

The catch can was mounted to mirror the overflow tank. My vision for the build is really taking hold now. Low mount accessories, chrome and black theme, and symmetry (as much as I can).

I have all the Fragola fittings coming for the coolant system and an in-line fill (already here). Unfortunately I forgot to order hose and fittings for the catch can. I should have enough to keep me busy anyway. Motion Raceworks is crazy fast with their shipments.

gbrettin

Fragola fittings came in for the radiator. I had no idea how large -20 was until I saw it in person. -20 is 1.5" while -16 is 1.25". The size of the fittings and hose had me searching for ideas for a while on the best way to route the hose. I took a few pictures along the way thinking "AH this is how it's going to work." BUT... like plumbing, things change. I left in some of positioning photos just so you can see the process I used. Something I don't often mention are the trips to the hardware store so I threw in a picture.

The inline fill ended up working best using a -16 female coupler right off the water manifold. Word of advice for people messing with fittings, think plumbing (that's why I keeps referencing plumbing). Unions and couplers are available with AN lines. Also, all the AN flare fittings need to plug into ORB fittings. That may be helpful for someone because I saw people going from AN flare to NPT fittings which causes leaks. The picture with the pump facing up shows an ORB fitting (-20).

I made a video on IG@gbrettin of how the plumbing routes. <- click to see

With all that said, a bracket is needed to mount my Davis Craig water pump. This really took a lot more time than intended. The bracket came out great but I had to cut small pieces out, grind them down, weld them up, grind them down, reweld and then do a final grind. The placement in the one of the pictures below should get the pump to the lowest spot. As mentioned before, it's to prevent air being in the pump.

Well crap... Doesn't look like I got pictures of the fittings. They are just on the parts or scattered around the car.

Hotrodz

You are are sure doing a good job of documenting everything just in case someone wants to follow you in doing stupid! They will still be stupid but well informed!!!!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

__________________
Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel|3GsCustoms|Z1|Wavetrac|Hotchkis|Whiteline |Blitz|Fortune Auto 500|Fujimura|SPL|H&R|TK|TWM|RPM Rollbar|Sparco|Next Level Performance|TrackSpec|AeroFlow Dynamics|Pioneer|

gbrettin

Yeah, I really like doing all this but I think people get confused with what it goes into making a build vs fabrication/build vs build/fabrication/swap. I think all three of those things are uniquely different. Unfortunately, my mindset was "swap" only. I'm a firm believer that a swap is WAY more involved than what people let on.

Also, I really hope someone can learn something from this.

Hotrodz

Agreed! Mine is fabrication build, Spooler is a motor build and they all stupid endeavors. I here a lot of people talk about a motor swap because you can pick LS fairly cheap but that is where that ends. The rest is money!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

__________________
Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel|3GsCustoms|Z1|Wavetrac|Hotchkis|Whiteline |Blitz|Fortune Auto 500|Fujimura|SPL|H&R|TK|TWM|RPM Rollbar|Sparco|Next Level Performance|TrackSpec|AeroFlow Dynamics|Pioneer|

BettyZ

Mission accomplished! I learned not to do a swap

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

__________________
'14 MB Nismo | Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs.
Betty Mods