Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin · 10-12-2019, 07:34 PM

Cut the tabs on the shock towers, finished removing pinch welds and ALMOST done grinding out the seam filler. Then I'll be ready for stitch welding, full scuff and epoxy primer.

For the record, I wasn't expecting to do all this extra work. This is a random detour but the end result will be welcomed. And WOW! I've spent hours grinding out the seams. This stuff is no joke.

Rusty · 10-12-2019, 08:09 PM

We warn you about the seam filler.

After you get the engine in and everything else. I would seriously look at making a stronger cross brace between the shock towers and back to the firewall.

gbrettin · 10-13-2019, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

We warn you about the seam filler.

After you get the engine in and everything else. I would seriously look at making a stronger cross brace between the shock towers and back to the firewall.

Spoiler alert! I was thinking about making a titanium brace.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Rusty · 10-13-2019, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin

Spoiler alert! I was thinking about making a titanium brace.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Ti is $$$$ I got $30,000 of it in my azz and foot, not counting the labor to install it.

gbrettin · 10-14-2019, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Ti is $$$$ I got $30,000 of it in my azz and foot, not counting the labor to install it.

You and I have that in common. I have about 12 Ti bolts in both legs.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

gbrettin · 10-14-2019, 08:21 PM

Ok, FINALLY done grinding out the seams (where I need it) and scuffed. Onward to welding! ... Some other day... If you haven't noticed cleaning the seams has been a royal PITA (As pointed out by all you).

Rusty · 10-14-2019, 08:37 PM

You going to mig weld the seams? If you do. Use ER70S-6 .025 wire with gas. I like to use Argon gas. It's a bit cleaner then CO2. Have you gas flow between 30 to 50. The .035 wire is a little too thick. It doesn't melt fast enough, and may push through the puddle. Causing a hole. DO NOT USE fluxcore wire. Because you WILL have a lot of work cleaning everything up. The slag can be a bitch to clean up.

gbrettin · 10-16-2019, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

You going to mig weld the seams? If you do. Use ER70S-6 .025 wire with gas. I like to use Argon gas. It's a bit cleaner then CO2. Have you gas flow between 30 to 50. The .035 wire is a little too thick. It doesn't melt fast enough, and may push through the puddle. Causing a hole. DO NOT USE fluxcore wire. Because you WILL have a lot of work cleaning everything up. The slag can be a bitch to clean up.

I'm pretty sure we are going to TIG but I'm leaving that up to my buddy. I'd like to do some welding but I'm going to learn on something a little less visible.

Rusty · 10-16-2019, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin

I'm pretty sure we are going to TIG but I'm leaving that up to my buddy. I'd like to do some welding but I'm going to learn on something a little less visible.

Tig will take a lot longer. But be a nicer weld. You can still use ER70s-6 wire, .035. .045 wire will give you more filler if you need to fill in some gaps.

gbrettin · 10-20-2019, 11:41 AM

Struggled removing the brake booster, my shoulders are tad broad for working under the dash. I was going to paint around it but I couldn't clean up the area well.

Also, added a recreation picture of The Sistine Chapel: The Creation of Gregory. Why? This is my sh1t show, deal with it.

gbrettin · 12-19-2019, 09:50 AM

Ok, so long time no post. My buddy's shop has been extremely and that means business is good. That also means my car takes a back seat because they don't accept belly lint for payment. In between that time of inactivity I have been getting additional carbon fiber supplies and building my garage out so that I can do a few projects here or at the shop.

The plan is to convert the Stillen brake coolers over to Carbon Kevlar and expand the inlet size. I suspect I will make a limited run to sell to a few people so that I can get some use out of the mould. After that, I'm going to mould my OEM hood and mould Fly 1's replicate mould of Varis's vents (mould inception). The reason why I'm doing the hood is because the entire bottom side is fiber glass and I can see day light through the vented area. Apparently Fly 1 uses ONE sheet of carbon fiber and reinforces with fiber glass. That's what 1,600 dollars gets you, faux CF looks. OE fenders and Finite Element fender vents are going to be combined into one mould and changed slightly. Personally, I'm not a fan on how they look like an after thought so I'm going to work with materials such as modeling clay to sculpt out a look closer to Porsche GT3 vents. No shortage of work/ideas here.

Lastly, I picked up a couple more items. Motion Raceworks Steam Vent kit and Holley twin throttle cable kit.

Enjoy!

Rusty · 12-19-2019, 11:29 AM

You making carbon fiber backing plates. Make them thick. A 3" high heat hose doesn't flex easy. I had to bend my plates out for clearance when the steering wheel is turned all the way.

ZontheRocks · 12-19-2019, 01:12 PM

I believe the kids are now calling things similar to this build "Cray Cray".

This thing looks great. Keep up the design work. That stuff is always a fun read.

gbrettin · 12-19-2019, 05:49 PM

I'm glad a few people like these updates. If someone can learn from my build, even better!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Rusty · 12-19-2019, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

You making carbon fiber backing plates. Make them thick. A 3" high heat hose doesn't flex easy. I had to bend my plates out for clearance when the steering wheel is turned all the way.

Scratch that idea about making carbon fiber backing plates. Bad idea because if you mount them like the oem's. They will fail. Carbon fiber doesn't like to be sandwiched between the bearing and knuckle. There is a lot of stress being sandwiched. You need to came up a different way to mount them.

10-12-2019, 07:34 PM	#151 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,237 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 542172	Cut the tabs on the shock towers, finished removing pinch welds and ALMOST done grinding out the seam filler. Then I'll be ready for stitch welding, full scuff and epoxy primer. For the record, I wasn't expecting to do all this extra work. This is a random detour but the end result will be welcomed. And WOW! I've spent hours grinding out the seams. This stuff is no joke. Rusty, Hotrodz and old guy like this. Last edited by gbrettin; 10-12-2019 at 07:39 PM.

10-12-2019, 08:09 PM	#152 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,860 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	We warn you about the seam filler. After you get the engine in and everything else. I would seriously look at making a stronger cross brace between the shock towers and back to the firewall. gbrettin, Hotrodz and wideglideleon like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

10-14-2019, 08:21 PM	#156 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,237 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 542172	Ok, FINALLY done grinding out the seams (where I need it) and scuffed. Onward to welding! ... Some other day... If you haven't noticed cleaning the seams has been a royal PITA (As pointed out by all you). Rusty, Hotrodz and sirnixalot like this.

10-14-2019, 08:37 PM	#157 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,860 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	You going to mig weld the seams? If you do. Use ER70S-6 .025 wire with gas. I like to use Argon gas. It's a bit cleaner then CO2. Have you gas flow between 30 to 50. The .035 wire is a little too thick. It doesn't melt fast enough, and may push through the puddle. Causing a hole. DO NOT USE fluxcore wire. Because you WILL have a lot of work cleaning everything up. The slag can be a bitch to clean up. gbrettin, Hotrodz and Spooler like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

10-20-2019, 11:41 AM	#160 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,237 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 542172	Struggled removing the brake booster, my shoulders are tad broad for working under the dash. I was going to paint around it but I couldn't clean up the area well. Also, added a recreation picture of The Sistine Chapel: The Creation of Gregory. Why? This is my sh1t show, deal with it. Rusty, madwi, Ghostvette and 3 others like this.

12-19-2019, 09:50 AM	#161 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,237 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 542172	Ok, so long time no post. My buddy's shop has been extremely and that means business is good. That also means my car takes a back seat because they don't accept belly lint for payment. In between that time of inactivity I have been getting additional carbon fiber supplies and building my garage out so that I can do a few projects here or at the shop. The plan is to convert the Stillen brake coolers over to Carbon Kevlar and expand the inlet size. I suspect I will make a limited run to sell to a few people so that I can get some use out of the mould. After that, I'm going to mould my OEM hood and mould Fly 1's replicate mould of Varis's vents (mould inception). The reason why I'm doing the hood is because the entire bottom side is fiber glass and I can see day light through the vented area. Apparently Fly 1 uses ONE sheet of carbon fiber and reinforces with fiber glass. That's what 1,600 dollars gets you, faux CF looks. OE fenders and Finite Element fender vents are going to be combined into one mould and changed slightly. Personally, I'm not a fan on how they look like an after thought so I'm going to work with materials such as modeling clay to sculpt out a look closer to Porsche GT3 vents. No shortage of work/ideas here. Lastly, I picked up a couple more items. Motion Raceworks Steam Vent kit and Holley twin throttle cable kit. Enjoy! Rusty, madwi and old guy like this.

12-19-2019, 11:29 AM	#162 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,860 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	You making carbon fiber backing plates. Make them thick. A 3" high heat hose doesn't flex easy. I had to bend my plates out for clearance when the steering wheel is turned all the way. gbrettin and Hotrodz like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

12-19-2019, 01:12 PM	#163 (permalink)
ZontheRocks Track Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Central Florida Posts: 935 Drives: 2016 Nissan PW 370Z Rep Power: 33079	I believe the kids are now calling things similar to this build "Cray Cray". This thing looks great. Keep up the design work. That stuff is always a fun read. gbrettin, Rusty and Hotrodz like this. __________________ '16 Pearl White Sport \| Stillen Gen. 3 \| Motordyne ART \| Motordyne Shockwave \| ZSpeed \| Powertrix \| EVO-R \| Aeroworkz \| Nismo \| Z1 \| EcuTek \| Tuned by Seb @ SpecialtyZ

12-19-2019, 05:49 PM	#164 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,237 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 542172	I'm glad a few people like these updates. If someone can learn from my build, even better! Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Rusty, Hotrodz, sx moneypit and 1 others like this.

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