Best ways to control traction

Rusty

With the 440 Dodge Dart that I drag raced. I used to bolt down some weight lifting weights in the trunk.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

Hotrodz

Yep, old school!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

__________________
Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel|3GsCustoms|Z1|Wavetrac|Hotchkis|Whiteline |Blitz|Fortune Auto 500|Fujimura|SPL|H&R|TK|TWM|RPM Rollbar|Sparco|Next Level Performance|TrackSpec|AeroFlow Dynamics|Pioneer|

Spooler

Here my corner balance numbers are with 180lbs of led weight in the drivers seat.

LF- 988
RF- 941
LR- 814
RR-772

Cross weight %= 49.9
Rear- 47
Front- 37

They could be better but I am not tracking yet.

Spooler

^^^Now that is funny. LOL

Spooler

My wife is great. When we went to my friends wedding in my 1990 300zxtt we were cruising home on the interstate. I was just cruising along. She looked at me and said, "You can drive however you want". LOL So I did. She enjoyed the ride and was giggling the whole way. I have a method to my madness on the interstate. I got a Kawasaki side by side Teryx years ago. We were cruising around on the dirt roads. I came to a cross road and ripped a few donuts without warning. She knew exactly where the OH shet handles were and was shaking her head smiling. LOL My dad however did not do that well. While we were going around in a circle he was screaming "Derrick, I didn't teach you to drive like this" at the top of his lungs. LOL

6mt370

Z's in general have a terrible time at putting power down even at stock hp levels. If you want to get any sort of traction you'll need to get drag radials, re work the rear suspension completely, zero out the camber, fix the toe, and get a good LSD. To put in perspective I can dead hook at 800whp+ in my Supra, which weighs less than my Z, with 275/35/18 federals. A $100 street tire...
If you want a car that hooks up you'll need to sacrifice handling by changing all the components listed above, or you'll have to sell the car and get something more favorable for straight line acceleration. I loved my boosted 370 but I sold It for that very reason. It would cost way to much to go fast compared to other cars. I found the cars to be a lot more fun NA so I bought another but vowed to do minor bolt ons and stop there. ECUTEK does have that traction control software built in but I never liked it. I felt the best way to moderate power was just by using my right foot.

6mt370

Just read some of the replies... you do not need wide tires to hook. People get strung up on sticking 305s on these cars and thinking that will solve everything. Tire compound and sidewall is what you should be chasing. It is a trade off of course, but a sticky tire is what you need. I also had the same turbo kit as you on my 370, I know exactly how quick that turbo spools up. It is a smaller turbo and with only 12psi, they are super manageable You might be one of those people that stab at the throttle and don't know how to feather it when you lose traction, I'm not sure how you drive.

Jinxx

I can maintain traction by controlling the throttle ...I was just looking for different ideas of how to maintain traction with more aggressive pedal ...but from what I’m hearing it seems limited in options.

6mt370

Get a dedicated 15" wheel and tire. I have 15s for my supra and run around at 9psi on my drag radials and do perfectly fine with zero burnouts. I would start with a quality LSD and tires and go from there.

jchammond

Agreed with the wider tires not necessarily having more grip;
You could probably get a good 17” to prevent losing your big brakes out back,,,I put big/wide tires on the rear of mine & got close to 0* camber,,,was ok on hot asphalt during summer months,,,but to really hook-had to perform a line-loc burnout.
A 275 is plenty tire for drag radials,,,though I’ve seen numerous people run 305/35/18’s in the MT SS drag.
I’m sure the Nismo springs don’t help much with weight transfer & traction is gonna get worse when weather cool’s off.

__________________
MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

Elmo370z

Best way to control traction is to buy a motec

bcfromfl

I appreciate the tips in this thread. I, too, am noticing traction problems, which I know are going to be a headache when I add the A2A kit later this year.

My biggest beef with my car is the gearbox. Gears are simply too short. I haven't done a lot of stoplight madness, but the times when I have, 7500 just comes WAY too quick in 2nd, and if I make the choice to pop into 3rd, at that speed, I'm already at 4500-5000 with not much room before 4th. 99% of the time I go from 2nd to 4th, and am getting quicker with it, but you just shouldn't have to play this kind of shifting game with a performance car.

I kept up with an older Audi TTS the other day, and while I know he has that (in)famous dual-clutch system, I was pushing the RPMs a bit too hard for comfort.

I had my car dynoed after the exhaust upgrade, and I'm at 312/269. I was hoping that the Michelins would reduce the traction control issues, and while I haven't noticed any fuel cutoff episodes like with the Potenzas, the light will still come on in 3rd accelerating out of corners. I don't want to be constantly replacing the rears...not only because of the cost...but because the owner of the speed shop who did it said he NEVER wants to change the tires again -- each rear took him three hours!

I suppose the best compromise is a diff upgrade, but I don't know enough about this sort of thing. Are there issues with speedometer accuracy? For those who have done this, what ratio is recommended? What speeds would the shift points move to?

Thanks!

__________________
Michelin PS4S 275/35F, 305/30R /// Exhaust: Motordyne ART Pipes, Garageline X and Mid-Pipe Combo /// Clutch: ZSpeed EZ-Street Stage II, RJM HD Master Cylinder

jchammond

Speedometer drives off of the 2 output sensors; mounted on the diff cover.
They read the toner rings on the output stub shafts,,,so 3.36 to 4.36 gear ratios will not affect speedometer- pending that you’re running a 27” tire (+ or - a tick)
Your 15’ Nismo has 3.92 axle ratio,,,pre 15’s had 3.69.
They make 3.54 & 3.36 if you want taller gears.

__________________
MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

bcfromfl

Thanks so much for the info! With the numbers you provided, I was able to do a better search, and came up with this thread: 3.54 Final Drive Swap Review

One thing that was brought up in the linked thread was that with a taller diff, there is an approximately 4% hp/tq loss. Some members in the thread mentioned that they would rather go the other way to 4.08, for quicker acceleration...but they don't seem to realize the problem with the time required to shift more often (at speeds less than, say, 80mph) adding to overall acceleration times. If you could knock out one shift in an average acceleration run, the benefits would be huge...for example. The way my car is geared now, there's no point in using 3rd at all except for downshifting into corners. Accelerating in 4th at most speeds above 40mph or so is most efficient.

The OP in the thread never came back to explain whether the loss of cruise control was due to the new diff, or the cable malfunction he suggested. Any input here?

__________________
Michelin PS4S 275/35F, 305/30R /// Exhaust: Motordyne ART Pipes, Garageline X and Mid-Pipe Combo /// Clutch: ZSpeed EZ-Street Stage II, RJM HD Master Cylinder