700hp twin turbo project

Elmo370z · 03-04-2016, 12:11 AM

Good stuff

TcRocket · 03-04-2016, 12:34 AM

Definitely like to see the damage. Will be installing my BP kit soon. Fingers crossed I don't end up like this..... Excited to see this build

AndyR1 · 03-04-2016, 04:52 AM

WOW

Masterbeatty · 03-04-2016, 09:19 AM

How are you installing the subframe bushings, I am looking into doing that as well.

B&W_Evader · 03-04-2016, 11:40 AM

I thought the engine usually drops out the bottom?

How long did it take to get all that stuff disconnected?

zguynate · 03-04-2016, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Masterbeatty

How are you installing the subframe bushings, I am looking into doing that as well.

Its a process... you have to obviously remove the subframe. So you have to disconnect the ebrake cables, take the brake calipers off, take the exhaust off, disconnect the driveshaft, and take a few suspension components off. I havent decided if I want to burn them out like i did on my 240sx or drill the meat out and cut the race with a sawzaw.

Quote:

Originally Posted by B&W_Evader

I thought the engine usually drops out the bottom?

How long did it take to get all that stuff disconnected?

Taking it out from the bottom is the "proper" way to do it. Unfortunately I don't have prolonged access to a lift and Im doing all the work at my house with no lift. So the next option is to remove the radiator support.

It wasn't that bad. Maybe 2 hours, and thats a high estimate. The most difficult part was taking the ziptied wiring harness off of the fan shroud lol. Also, trying to disconnect the AC lines with cheap disconnect tools was a waste of time. I had to borrow some nice ones and they came off really easy.

Hotrodz · 03-04-2016, 01:54 PM

I upgraded the sub frame bushings when I replaced the rear differential. The mechanic said getting the oem bushings out were a real pain in the a$$. Beware as they are noisy on deceleration because of the flexing of the subframe under load. It chatters until the load is relieved. I have gotten use to it now and it doesn't bother me but if you are sensitive to cabin noise I would not recommend it.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

zguynate · 03-08-2016, 05:19 PM

Alright guys, I need some help wrapping my head around bearings... I have been beating my head against the wall about this since 7 this morning. I know my measurements, I know what I want my clearances to be, but I have no clue how to get the proper sized bearings.

So, for reference, we will use the stamps on my block and crank. The block for Main #1 is stamped "S". The #1 main on the crank is stamped "M". Here is a picture from the FSM stating measurements and grade of bearing for those particular stamps.

Grade 4 bearing per FSM

Now here is the math.

Someone help me out here. Using the measurements out of the Nissan FSM and math, it says my clearance will be .0007, however the minimum clearance is .0014. What am I missing? This is making it difficult for me to find the proper size bearings I need. The math isn't adding up and it's driving me crazy.

B&W_Evader · 03-09-2016, 10:20 AM

Agreed that the math does not add up. Maybe the assembly lube is supposed to take off the last bit for the final clearance number they give you in the manual.

BTW, have you looked into using aftermarket bearings to get away from the over-temp issue with the "green" Nissan ones?

zguynate · 03-09-2016, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B&W_Evader

Agreed that the math does not add up. Maybe the assembly lube is supposed to take off the last bit for the final clearance number they give you in the manual.

BTW, have you looked into using aftermarket bearings to get away from the over-temp issue with the "green" Nissan ones?

I haven't. The only aftermarket bearings I know of are the ACL mains. I don't think anyone makes aftermarket rod bearings.

Chuck33079 · 03-09-2016, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonbreath

I haven't. The only aftermarket bearings I know of are the ACL mains. I don't think anyone makes aftermarket rod bearings.

The last time I checked, coated oem rod bearings were the best option available since there's no aftermarket option.

Streetz · 03-09-2016, 01:29 PM

I used stock Bearings in my built Vq35de. I Just replaced them last year because I thought after 60k miles and 10 years they would be worn. Pulled them out and they looked brand new. Still had the marks on the bearing material from where we measured them. Car has seen some high power too. I was really impressed with how they were holding up.

xsamis · 03-22-2022, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zguynate

Alright guys, I need some help wrapping my head around bearings... I have been beating my head against the wall about this since 7 this morning. I know my measurements, I know what I want my clearances to be, but I have no clue how to get the proper sized bearings.

So, for reference, we will use the stamps on my block and crank. The block for Main #1 is stamped "S". The #1 main on the crank is stamped "M". Here is a picture from the FSM stating measurements and grade of bearing for those particular stamps.

Grade 4 bearing per FSM

Now here is the math.

Someone help me out here. Using the measurements out of the Nissan FSM and math, it says my clearance will be .0007, however the minimum clearance is .0014. What am I missing? This is making it difficult for me to find the proper size bearings I need. The math isn't adding up and it's driving me crazy.

i sent you a pm about bearing sizes,

Thanks

zguynate · 03-09-2016, 02:25 PM

I finally had some time to get the old motor torn apart. Holy ****.

While taking the accessories and wiring harness off the engine kept spitting goodies at us (Mempihs370z) through the hole in the oil pan.

As you can see in the pictures above, things got crazy in there. The water pump had metal shavings hanging out in there. I knew when I took the heads off, there was going to be some carnage. Well behold:

Pistons 2,4,6:

Cylinders 1,3,5:

Close ups:

Needless to say, there isn't much left to keep lol.

Chuck33079 · 03-09-2016, 02:31 PM

That is a truly impressive amount of destruction.

03-04-2016, 09:19 AM	#4 (permalink)
Masterbeatty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2012 Location: Whales Vagina Posts: 4,586 Drives: the speed limit... Rep Power: 122869	How are you installing the subframe bushings, I am looking into doing that as well. __________________ 2011 MB 6MT Masterbeatty journal

03-04-2016, 11:40 AM	#5 (permalink)
B&W_Evader Track Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: CA Posts: 972 Drives: slower than before Rep Power: 388	I thought the engine usually drops out the bottom? How long did it take to get all that stuff disconnected? __________________ \|RIP\|6spd-sport\|OSG-LSD\|XP8\|RBF600\|Eibach Sways\|RE-71R\|FI-34Row\|Gen3-CAI\|Yaw P.S.\|

03-04-2016, 01:54 PM	#7 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684386	I upgraded the sub frame bushings when I replaced the rear differential. The mechanic said getting the oem bushings out were a real pain in the a$$. Beware as they are noisy on deceleration because of the flexing of the subframe under load. It chatters until the load is relieved. I have gotten use to it now and it doesn't bother me but if you are sensitive to cabin noise I would not recommend it. Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk zguynate, VSS370z and Masterbeatty like this. __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\| Last edited by Hotrodz; 03-04-2016 at 02:02 PM.*

03-08-2016, 05:19 PM	#8 (permalink)
zguynate A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Strangeland Posts: 1,054 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 75	Alright guys, I need some help wrapping my head around bearings... I have been beating my head against the wall about this since 7 this morning. I know my measurements, I know what I want my clearances to be, but I have no clue how to get the proper sized bearings. So, for reference, we will use the stamps on my block and crank. The block for Main #1 is stamped "S". The #1 main on the crank is stamped "M". Here is a picture from the FSM stating measurements and grade of bearing for those particular stamps. Grade 4 bearing per FSM Now here is the math. Someone help me out here. Using the measurements out of the Nissan FSM and math, it says my clearance will be .0007, however the minimum clearance is .0014. What am I missing? This is making it difficult for me to find the proper size bearings I need. The math isn't adding up and it's driving me crazy. __________________ 2009 370z touring w/sports package Last edited by zguynate; 10-06-2017 at 05:34 PM.

03-09-2016, 10:20 AM	#9 (permalink)
B&W_Evader Track Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: CA Posts: 972 Drives: slower than before Rep Power: 388	Agreed that the math does not add up. Maybe the assembly lube is supposed to take off the last bit for the final clearance number they give you in the manual. BTW, have you looked into using aftermarket bearings to get away from the over-temp issue with the "green" Nissan ones? __________________ \|RIP\|6spd-sport\|OSG-LSD\|XP8\|RBF600\|Eibach Sways\|RE-71R\|FI-34Row\|Gen3-CAI\|Yaw P.S.\|

03-04-2016, 12:11 AM	#1 (permalink)
Elmo370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: st. petersburg Posts: 5,730 Drives: 09 nissan 370z Sp M6 Rep Power: 295380	Good stuff

03-04-2016, 12:34 AM	#2 (permalink)
TcRocket Base Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Coldwater MI Posts: 165 Drives: 2010 370z Nismo Rep Power: 11	Definitely like to see the damage. Will be installing my BP kit soon. Fingers crossed I don't end up like this..... Excited to see this build

03-04-2016, 04:52 AM	#3 (permalink)
AndyR1 Base Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: New Zealand Posts: 12 Drives: 370Z Stillen Edition Rep Power: 15	WOW

03-09-2016, 01:29 PM	#12 (permalink)
Streetz Base Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Chicago Posts: 59 Drives: 2011 370zTT 818whp Rep Power: 11	I used stock Bearings in my built Vq35de. I Just replaced them last year because I thought after 60k miles and 10 years they would be worn. Pulled them out and they looked brand new. Still had the marks on the bearing material from where we measured them. Car has seen some high power too. I was really impressed with how they were holding up. zguynate likes this.

03-09-2016, 02:25 PM	#14 (permalink)
zguynate A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Strangeland Posts: 1,054 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 75	I finally had some time to get the old motor torn apart. Holy ***. While taking the accessories and wiring harness off the engine kept spitting goodies at us (Mempihs370z) through the hole in the oil pan. As you can see in the pictures above, things got crazy in there. The water pump had metal shavings hanging out in there. I knew when I took the heads off, there was going to be some carnage. Well behold: Pistons 2,4,6: Cylinders 1,3,5: Close ups: Needless to say, there isn't much left to keep lol. jaytirbhaw, blueranger, Memphis370Z and 1 others like this. __________________ 2009 370z touring w/sports package Last edited by zguynate; 10-06-2017 at 05:38 PM.*

03-09-2016, 02:31 PM	#15 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29540	That is a truly impressive amount of destruction. jaytirbhaw, zguynate, TBatt and 1 others like this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

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