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DIY: 2009 - 2010 Steering Wheel Lock Fix w/ Pics!

Originally Posted by Hi-Step'n370Z ...But I do have a question; is there a difference between cutting the brown wire, which essentially is what the by-pass cable does, and pulling the

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Old 07-24-2018, 09:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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...But I do have a question; is there a difference between cutting the brown wire, which essentially is what the by-pass cable does, and pulling the fuse?
Electrically, no.

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It said, in at least one reported case, that with pulling the fuse, the passenger air bag, and or, the child safety seat may not work properly.
As far as I know (and I've been keeping up with ESCL posts), that is the only report and I'm inclined to believe that it was not related to the ESCL fuse. They may have knocked some wire(s) loose while pulling the fuse, but the fuse powers only the ESCL motor.

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And also that there was a slight delay from when the start button was pushed, and the engine actually cranked over, but stated that it doesn't happen all the time, and the delay is short.
While a few people (myself included) have reported a slight delay on occasion when starting, there is no evidence to prove that it is related to pulling the fuse. Even if pulling the fuse is causing the delay, I consider it a non-issue - it happens infrequently and is only for a second or two.

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So, is there a difference in the circuit flow / operation between cutting the brown wire, and pulling the fuse?
No. The cut is in a different physical location, but electrically, it is the same.
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Electrically, no.


As far as I know (and I've been keeping up with ESCL posts), that is the only report and I'm inclined to believe that it was not related to the ESCL fuse. They may have knocked some wire(s) loose while pulling the fuse, but the fuse powers only the ESCL motor.


While a few people (myself included) have reported a slight delay on occasion when starting, there is no evidence to prove that it is related to pulling the fuse. Even if pulling the fuse is causing the delay, I consider it a non-issue - it happens infrequently and is only for a second or two.


No. The cut is in a different physical location, but electrically, it is the same.


Thanks for all the detail, SouthArk370Z.

My next step is to disable the lock and be done with it.

If the RevD - or any other replacement lock - was so great, why did Nissan discontinue the lock altogether in 2012? Because they couldn't get it manufactured correctly.

Even though I have the RevD, which is supposed to be "the fix", I don't trust it. There were obviously manufacturing problems that just couldn't be corrected, so they eliminated the lock altogether, which makes it wise, in my opinion, to not trust any of them any longer than you need to.

Cut the wire, pull the fuse, or buy and install the by-pass harness, but disable that lock.

Bye the way, I've been on this Forum since it's beginning and I don't understand how it took all these years for me to notice the lock problem. I'm just glad I did, and appreciate the Forum for providing it's usual great information. (and in this case, it's patients, while helping me navigate through an old and worn topic)

This Forum's been a great asset to the 370Z enthusiast. I'd like to give a shout-out to it's founder, AK370Z, for all his hard work and dedication in getting the Forum up and running back in "09.

On a lighter note; I also want to add that Michelin Super Sports do burn-out's way better than the Bridgestone's!

Thanks again to all!
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