SPL rear titanium mid links, springs???

sandersd · 02-10-2016, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

I'm worried about something if someone can help...

I installed the spl mid links and the 6" swift 10kg springs. The car is at a ride height of 26 3/16th on both sides. I don't remember where the car sat before the install with the swift spec-r's. I know it was 26 something, I think high 26. The spl mid link is about half way to get to that height and where spl said it should be.

The issue is if I jack the car up the spring almost falls out of the bucket. If this happened it'd be a total crash or worse! So basically I have zero preload if that's what you call it. I've seen Z's on three wheels before so there is a chance the spring could pop out on a track. Not to mention the loud banging all the time as the spring pops in and out over big holes all the time beating up the upper and lower buckets.

What do I do? Buy an adjustable length shock?

Almost popping out, only one side jacked up.

What did SPL say when you contacted them with your concerns?

synolimit · 02-11-2016, 02:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandersd

What did SPL say when you contacted them with your concerns?

They advised to run a 7" vs a 6" but then stopped when i stated that wouldnt make sence with the ride height i wanted. If 6" is dead center on the adjuster then 7" would just force me to lower the adjuster putting it not dead center but have it 1" lower unless i wanted to look like a 4x4. They agreed and i just left it. After some time the spring stayed solid even when jacking the car up. I never had issues and the car tracked perfect even tight fast autox events. Only time i thought there was a problem was when i fully unloaded the spring when jacking the car up with in first few times i did it. Idk why it got tighter over time but they did and i never had noise DE is stating.

DEpointfive0 · 02-11-2016, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Have you checked your bushing? Is the pop maybe coming from the knuckle bushing?

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

They advised to run a 7" vs a 6" but then stopped when i stated that wouldnt make sence with the ride height i wanted. If 6" is dead center on the adjuster then 7" would just force me to lower the adjuster putting it not dead center but have it 1" lower unless i wanted to look like a 4x4. They agreed and i just left it. After some time the spring stayed solid even when jacking the car up. I never had issues and the car tracked perfect even tight fast autox events. Only time i thought there was a problem was when i fully unloaded the spring when jacking the car up with in first few times i did it. Idk why it got tighter over time but they did and i never had noise DE is stating.

I have 7" springs, but no 4x4 height. The perches are all the way up, and it's at OEM height, or close to it

I haven't checked the bushing, but nothing was out of the norm. I can hear the spring decompressing when I'm going over a bump...
I'm also at the extreme of adjustment on the arm too

synolimit · 02-12-2016, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

I have 7" springs, but no 4x4 height. The perches are all the way up, and it's at OEM height, or close to it

I haven't checked the bushing, but nothing was out of the norm. I can hear the spring decompressing when I'm going over a bump...
I'm also at the extreme of adjustment on the arm too

I think that's a prob then. A 7" spring at oem heights probably putting it at an odd angle. You saw my pics and gomers, 6" spring with adjuster at half way and straight when compressed. You need to slam it or go 6".

2SIC4U · 03-10-2017, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

I'm worried about something if someone can help...

I installed the spl mid links and the 6" swift 10kg springs. The car is at a ride height of 26 3/16th on both sides. I don't remember where the car sat before the install with the swift spec-r's. I know it was 26 something, I think high 26. The spl mid link is about half way to get to that height and where spl said it should be.

The issue is if I jack the car up the spring almost falls out of the bucket. If this happened it'd be a total crash or worse! So basically I have zero preload if that's what you call it. I've seen Z's on three wheels before so there is a chance the spring could pop out on a track. Not to mention the loud banging all the time as the spring pops in and out over big holes all the time beating up the upper and lower buckets.

What do I do? Buy an adjustable length shock?

Almost popping out, only one side jacked up.

You need a helper spring Swift Helper Springs to keep a load on the spring. KW provided me this information as I ran into your same issue Swift Helper Springs H65-070-008. Also you need to find a better alignment shop or if you did this yourself, you need to correctly adjust the top (there is a bolt you can adjust) to move the top spring so when the car is on the ground, the spring still stays straight up and down...vs the way yours is now at a weird angle.

sixpax · 03-30-2014, 04:54 AM

you need a 7" spring ... stock is 10" and the midlink changes the geometry height about 3 inches higher than stock ...

synolimit · 03-30-2014, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixpax

you need a 7" spring ... stock is 10" and the midlink changes the geometry height about 3 inches higher than stock ...

But then the car would be at stock height no?

sixpax · 03-30-2014, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

But then the car would be at stock height no?

nope you can adjust up or down about 2.5 inches ... a 7" spring just gets you to the same starting point as the stock spring. 6" spring is too short, as you have proven

synolimit · 03-30-2014, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixpax

nope you can adjust up or down about 2.5 inches ... a 7" spring just gets you to the same starting point as the stock spring. 6" spring is too short, as you have proven

But then the link won't be mid way. I can't see how it will help. If I put a 7" in ill have to lower the coil an inch to get back to 26 3/16th. Then the spring will be right back where it was.

binary0x01 · 08-28-2014, 10:56 PM

Synolimit I got your setup off you bro, so should I sell off the 6" springs and get 7" ones or does me having Koni Yellows make a diff?

I have no problems getting 7" spring. I'm just asking because synolimit's setup was with stock shocks, whereas I got the Koni Yellows.

Thanks in advance guys.

synolimit · 08-29-2014, 12:40 AM

Like I've said before...a different length spring isn't going to do anything. If you put a 7" spring in there all you're going to do is raise the car 1". If you want it 1" higher than just raise the adjustable perch up 1".

John11 · 09-21-2014, 02:58 PM

I have the 7" 11kg 65mm springs and I have the mid link threaded all the way down as low as I can go and it is pretty much the same height as stock. I'm gonna try a 6" 11kg 65mm spring and see if I get the height I want. FYI I talked to SPL about the spring being wobbly or loose before there is load on it and they said that is fine and perfectly normal.

Zauskycop · 09-21-2014, 11:06 PM

IF I have a stock spring suspension, and (for the time being) only want to have a "stock spring" in back...what rate and size would need to be ordered for that with the titanium midlinks?

Tracy Ramsey

synolimit · 09-22-2014, 01:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zauskycop

IF I have a stock spring suspension, and (for the time being) only want to have a "stock spring" in back...what rate and size would need to be ordered for that with the titanium midlinks?

Tracy Ramsey

7" since it seems you stay around stock height or 6" if you want an inch drop or more. the rear rate stock is like 7-8k but remember the stocks are a progressive spring while these types of swifts are linear.

Zauskycop · 09-22-2014, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

7" since it seems you stay around stock height or 6" if you want an inch drop or more. the rear rate stock is like 7-8k but remember the stocks are a progressive spring while these types of swifts are linear.

Hmmm...great..progressive. I just want to keep the rear from slipping around during the One Lap of America. Time to do some research and figure out the best rate to go with. Eventually, there will be coilovers, but the budget, for now, dictates otherwise.

Tracy Ramsey

08-28-2014, 10:56 PM	#10 (permalink)
binary0x01 Track Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Idaho Posts: 892 Drives: 2012 6-SPEED 3.7L Z Rep Power: 16	Synolimit I got your setup off you bro, so should I sell off the 6" springs and get 7" ones or does me having Koni Yellows make a diff? I have no problems getting 7" spring. I'm just asking because synolimit's setup was with stock shocks, whereas I got the Koni Yellows. Thanks in advance guys. __________________ Tune (by Seb@SpecialtyZ) -- Upgraded Parts List : When in doubt, use brute force; if it doesn't work, you aren't using enough.

08-29-2014, 12:40 AM	#11 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3391	Like I've said before...a different length spring isn't going to do anything. If you put a 7" spring in there all you're going to do is raise the car 1". If you want it 1" higher than just raise the adjustable perch up 1". __________________ 13 370z-

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John11 Base Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Tuscaloosa, Alabama Posts: 44 Drives: 2013-370z-Black-M6 Rep Power: 14	I have the 7" 11kg 65mm springs and I have the mid link threaded all the way down as low as I can go and it is pretty much the same height as stock. I'm gonna try a 6" 11kg 65mm spring and see if I get the height I want. FYI I talked to SPL about the spring being wobbly or loose before there is load on it and they said that is fine and perfectly normal.

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