Burned up my brakes at the track, now what?

LuckyPierre

Much thanks to everyone who has replied, lots of very good advice. How much street driving? The car's somewhat of a garage queen, avoiding rainy days (usually), it's not my daily driver. I think I have a pretty clear path forward - more advanced pads and rotors, add brake cooling. I understand that there will be a trade off between street driveabililty and the ability to drive at the limit at the track. Frankly, I bought the car primarily to have something to play with at the track, but I wanted something streetable as well. I'm sure it can be done.

thekinn

It's not like racing pads will make it dangerous on the street. I confidently run DTC60 front and PFC-01 rear 24/7 on my 350Z (using stoptech front calipers and brembo rears). The dust and noise are noticeable but I really don't put too many street miles on it. If it's cold out, the first stop might be a little weaker than normal.. but it's not terrible. I've grown to like my squeaky brakes.

If I were driving 20+ miles to and from work every day or something, I would make a different choice.

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06 Enthusiast MT - v2

Spooler

I run Carbotech XP8's all around with brake cooling ducts on the street with Motul RBF600 fluid. My squeaky brakes just annoy everyone but me. Stopping is key.

Dentt42

I have a feeling a lot of us are practiced at answering the question, "Why does your car make that weird noise?"

cv129

It’s really old
It needs brake oil
It has arthritis
Hungry mouse in there somewhere
It’s a Nissan thing

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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

Shotta

Its really easy to swap pads out for track days, thats what I do. 1 set for the streets and one set for the occasional track days.

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6MT - designed for perfectionists
7AT - designed for enthusiasts

thekinn

The issue with that is the other pad material left on the rotor when you switch. I've had issues where my pads and rotors kind of looked like the OPs (not quite that bad) when switching from street to race without a clean rotor.

One way to clean the street pad off is to just run the race pads on the street.. it basically acts like a lathe when cold and will do a pretty good job after a 100 or so miles of street driving. Then you are ready to bed in the race pads for optimal performance.

I've also heard of Carbotech's Bobcats. Supposed to be a street pad used along with XP series race pads and I guess due to some similarity in material avoids the steps listed above.

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06 Enthusiast MT - v2

bpchaos

I switched between XP10/8s and Stoptech Sports (309s) for a time. Oh man, they did not like each other. I had to get my rotors turned, and might get 1521s for the next street set to (hopefully) avoid redoing my rotors every time I go to the track.

cthorson910

My setup is a lot like Rusty's
Pads- Carbotech 10/8 combo
Rotors- Racing Brake
Fluid - Brembo HTC-64
Ducting- stillen kit w/2" for now, but will be upgrading to 3" ducts in the near future.

I don't have the Ti shims for the pads though, but this setup is pretty solid. I've yet to experience brake fade at all in 20-25min sessions at Laguna Seca.

ZoomZ

When we refer to Racing Brake, is this the place?: https://racingbrake.com/

zz

JARblue

Yes

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JARblue

https://racingbrake.com/standard-iro...san/nis-irk-02

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Spooler

I just run track pads all the time. The only time you have to be very careful is on the interstate when it is cold and raining. Got to remember to press the brakes from time to time with long instances of no brakes at all.

Rusty

In the last 2 weeks. I've driven from south of Pittsburgh, to Grand Rapids, to Denver, to Bloomfield NM with my set-up. That's over 2,500 miles. The only issue is coming to a stop. They do make noise. In the rain. They do feel different. But will still put your eyeballs in the windshield.

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"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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SS_Firehawk

The main benefit of the two piece is it allows for the rotor to expand and contract separate to the hub. It also allows the rotor maintain better contact with the pad as it wears over time. Temps generally reach higher peak because of less rotor mass, but they cool back down faster. If your rotor gets too hot, you can crack the ring, so taking too much material runs a greater risk of that happening.

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