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Lol. Bringing this back because why not, this thing keeps on giving. It's great for drivability, but just don't plan on running exhausts. It's the OEM diff stye, but still
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#1 (permalink) |
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Lol. Bringing this back because why not, this thing keeps on giving. It's great for drivability, but just don't plan on running exhausts. It's the OEM diff stye, but still required some creative cutting wheel massaging to fit. It's an HKS HiPower catback.
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#2 (permalink) |
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I got the Z1 installed a couple weeks ago and have the MAM diff cooler, Z1 diff cover, and Motordyne exhaust.
It was a bit tougher working around my diff cooler lines (had a wrench stuck between a bolt and an AN fitting for a good 15 minutes!) but otherwise a super basic install with no interference. The side that mounts to the frame uses a large machined threaded nut that also sat into an existing hole on the rear brace but no rubber to dampen vibrations. It's getting into peak winter here in Wisconsin and my neighborhood is all ice, so no driving impressions for a while, much less how it holds up at the track, but so far, so good.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Appreciate your answer. Regards, |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Exhaust was fine, though IDK how Stillen's lines up.
I used a wrench inside the bracing on the nut side and hit my wrench on the bolt side (external side) as hard as I could. Also used blue threadlocker. Not ideal, but best I could do with the space. There's no room to turn a wrench, even a ratcheting one, inside the hollow rear bracing piece.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Sold: A7 370z 2014 - Stillen Catback - Testpipes - UpRev - Dropin filters - Silicon intake pipes - BC racing coil overs - Z1 Subframe collars - Z1 Engine and Trans Mounts - Oil cooler - CatchCan - Z1 brake lines. Now: I am building another car ![]() |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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I did, it’s tight but no issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I’ve been curious about this myself. It will make the diff even more sturdy but I worry about NVH. I’m not sure the point going poly mount only to rigid mount on the other end. If they had a way to do it with another bushing somehow then I’d feel better about it.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Then I was thinking if this will now put the forces on other parts of the drivetrain. ![]() Anyway, it’s easy to remove if I need to. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Even solid metal bushing is suseptibel to wear. Specially where the center bolt meets the bushing. Over time the metal stud will eventually elogate the aluminum. Depends on how hard you launch and power going back there. So I'd say keeping the diff from moving at all (or limiting it) will prolong any type of bushing. Just rememeber, that force is being transmittted somewhere else. Looking at both the Z1 and Bell set up, all the force is transmitted to a singular bush/nut in a very thin subframe wall. Not ideal, but it simple. GK tech has a better idea with a two bolt sytem. More work but better design. What im saying is, not to use a different cover, but using the concept of a larger bushing/through bolt for the Z1/Bell Diff brace attach to the subframe. https://youtu.be/xJoZnto4J-8?si=JG7cv2ORSoXWzBVh Skip to 6:25 for install.
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“Action without vision is a nightmare.” Last edited by ZoomZ; 01-05-2024 at 01:07 PM. Reason: add video, spelling, addition |
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#14 (permalink) |
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I took a few pics after install, as you can see it’s close but clears.
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#15 (permalink) |
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You can grind down to the botttom of the "Z1" logo to give even more clearance. I dont think that would cause any weakness issues.
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