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It's a multi-link suspension in which caster, camber and toe vary as the links move. You'd literally have to get the arm lengths (distance between mounting points) model them on
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It's a multi-link suspension in which caster, camber and toe vary as the links move. You'd literally have to get the arm lengths (distance between mounting points) model them on CAD or some suspension software (unless you feel like deriving the system model mathetically - Phunk probably did that already haha) and see how it behaves. From there you'll discover that you'll have to redesign the arms which will basically force you to rework the entire subframe. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Could the outside tire be cambering more than the chassis is leaning, and taking rubber off the pavement for no good reason? Perhaps "yes" with a very stiff and flat setup, and "no" with a more stock setup? Or would the answer be "no way not even close"? |
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It seems it would be difficult in general to simultaneously optimize a rear suspension's response for both road-racing and drag-racing. |
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So even if you stopped the suspension from going any further down from the desired point which camber would be perfect for traction? There isn't a way to stop the suspension travel prematurely?
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The desired point is HIGHER (decompressed) than where you started, so you couldnt go down (compress) at all. You would have to take out the shocks and put in solid metal bars and defeat the whole suspension... which would result in an unstable and dangerous car.
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I ask because if I keep the car much longer, we have played around with the idea of a custom rear crossmember. We could then change the curve by using custom control arm lengths, or possibly a few different positions. If it would only cater to drag racing, then I would figure on building just one, in which cause would be easier to fabricate and modify off the stock one. But if there was benefits to be found for the much more common road course racers here, then it could possibly justify a full custom rear crossmember. But it sounds like you guys are plenty happy with how it is already.
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My rear static/dynamic camber ends up doing the right thing on the outside wheel. It gets a little iffy on the inside wheel, but I suspect I'm going to iron that out over the next two events. This weekend I'm trying just a downgrade to the stock rear sway, and then for the next event I'll probably be upping my spring rates all around (but esp in front) to reduce body roll. Depending on lots of things, I'm not sure which rear bar I'll end up running with the stiffer springs. But either way, I don't think we need a major geometry change in the rear for road racing.
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You should be able to find a spring setup that works for track and street. I am currently putting a pair of BC's on for daily/track use. I am going with a 10K/12K setup which is similar to OEM setup. You could probably do the same but depending on your corner weights might have to up the front(sure your front is heavier than mine).
Are you doing true types in the rear or OEM? The diff is a no brainer. Switch to solid diff bushings and just throw any of the reputable diffs in there-Quaife, Geiken, Cusco. I bet that alone takes off .5 second. For front wheels , I would just get an el cheapo pair of 18"x8" wheelsand throw some 100 dollar Goodyear touring/eco low rolling resistance tires on there. They don't have to be top fuel eliminator bicycle tires, but there's no reason to be running grippy 275's up front if you are going in a straight line. Using spare tires rated to 55MPH sounds a little sketchy ![]() Also running 4.08 gears at 600 HP would just make your problem worse. The problem is traction, not HP. There's literally nothing else to the equation.
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