The good and bad of R comps at the track

wstar

I know the feeling. After last weekend, I'm starting to seriously wonder how hard it would be to convert over to center-lock hubs (I don't think anyone even makes them for our car yet?) and install a set of air jacks in the car, but whatever all that would cost, I need that for other car upgrades that matter when it's actually running!

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Rusty

Forgeline wheels. I almost got them when I got my wheels.

Forgeline: Center Lock Wheels and Center Lock Conversion

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cossie1600

Not sure, maybe an inch lower than stock? I have to remove the mud flaps to clear a lot of things.

My fix is to buy a smaller new pair of A6 for the front, I will keep my new rears.

I have had slicks for a long time, just not at the track and I don't usually do back to back comparison.

I think it is worth it

I honestly don't remember what I got, but I believe you can go even higher on the springs. They are not bad, but I am not going to say they are perfect. There are some weird quality control issues, but what are my other options at this price range right?

You could risk your $1200 R6 driving to the track. Just remember every mile you drive, you start to lose grip from the Hoosiers.

synolimit

I've decided on stance comp 2's. I want true's and it's the only thing affordable. FA won't make true's, Odi at feal has good report but I want a two way, 18k/7k should be a good place to start.

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13 370z-

speedfreek

What do you mean FA won't make true's? I thought that the 510's were true type and the 500's were OEM style. I was confused by this because when I ordered I thought the 500's were true type as well when you look at their product page.

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synolimit

Nope.

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synolimit

So 2k for hubs, $1500 per wheel? Deal

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wstar

I think (from what I gathered there) that those are some kind of bolt-on adapters. Kinda like a spacer, that bolts into your lug holes and the provides the center-lock. Ideally for a race car, you'd actually replace the hub/bearing itself with a unit that was natively a single center lug (and then you'd need completely different brake rotor hats and wheels than stock). At least, luckily the hub/bearing thing on our car is separate from the arm it bolts to, so it wouldn't be too horrible to get this done.

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synolimit

Yep, a $2000 spacer

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Rusty

The question was asked. I answered it.

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Tazicon

And the Porsche guys pay big money to switch back to lugs............

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critical

yeah idk why anyone here wants to run centerlocks?

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Quaife w/ gears |Stillen Gen 3|SOLD FI Resonated Test Pipes |SOLD FI 18'' | 25row Stillen Race | Progress 35mm/25mm sways | Swifts/Koni|Volk G25's| Stoptech SS lines||SPL Front/Rear Arms|

wstar

Single-nut hubs and airjacks start sounding appealing when you're trying to swap 4 wheels in the paddock and it's 95 outside and you're soaked in sweat and exhausted from a hard session But, yeah, not worth the cost and customization for the single-nut, and not worth the cost or weight for the airjack system for DEs.

This thread has really made me review my tools and methods for changing wheels at the track, though. Lots of little things, like:

1) Using my low-profile jack sucks. It's actually pretty huge, and heavy, and it lifts slow. It's one of the normal ones you find at parts stores, and I have to first reach under and fit a little adapter onto the pinch weld. I should look at spending on a proper racing jack, and maybe welding some little flat plates under the car along that pinch-weld area and marking them with arrows on the rocker panel so I can just shove the jack under and pump 3 times and be done.

2) I'm going to start using a cordless impact to reinstall lugs, too. I picked up a 65 ft-lb torque extension stick ( this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sps-75520 ) just to keep me from being stupid while fatigued and ease my transition from being anal about these things, and then I'll finish with a quick hit with the real torque wrench for final tightening.

3) I've been using those little tuner-style open-ended nuts with the silly socket adapters which slows me down too, so I'm going to switch over to plain-jane bulge-cone-seat open nuts with 17mm hex on the end of them (this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-30027 ). I think I can fit a regular 17mm deep socket into the holes in my Forgestars.

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critical

failure rate is exponentially higher with centerlocks. i've seen a gt3 lose a wheel on the road. there's a reason porsche guys convert to 5 lug setups.

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Quaife w/ gears |Stillen Gen 3|SOLD FI Resonated Test Pipes |SOLD FI 18'' | 25row Stillen Race | Progress 35mm/25mm sways | Swifts/Koni|Volk G25's| Stoptech SS lines||SPL Front/Rear Arms|