The good and bad of R comps at the track
 

After taking a few months off from the track, I made a trek back to it this past weekend. Unlike my previous trips, I decided to drag my autox tires along, the 295/40/18 Hoosier A6 to compare to my 285/35/18 Hankook R-S3. I was able to carry the tires by using my utility trailer.

The first two sessions of the day, I was driving on the R-S3 and I was about .5 sec off my personal best. Even though I found the Fortune Auto to not be stiff enough, I do have to say the adjustments knob on it do make a huge difference. One click can have a dramatic difference in how the car handles.

While I was still on the fence about the A6s before the second session, I decided to put them on after experiencing some brake fade near the end of my second session. I figured it was safer to bleed the brakes and change the tires at the same time. As my luck would have it, a 911 spun into the kitty litter and shorten my third session by 70%. Despite only getting two laps, my first lap I shattered my personal best by 2+ sec. This was with no experience in how to setup the tires or the suspension. As I ended the third session, I had high hopes for the fourth one as I really wanted to squeeze another .5 seconds out the tires. Unfortunately, an EVO caught fire and I was only able to do my fourth session two hours after. In my fourth session, I was only able to make small gains on my times as the A6s are so big that it dug through my fender liner. As the tires were getting compressed in hard turns, the sidewall on the tire was cut by the inside of the fender. With the tires in danger, I had no choice but to back off. Even before the tire going down, I was stuck in traffic when the tires were at the prime. I had used up so much of the brakes and car to clear some of the morons. I ended up only gaining a tenth or two from my third session.

Despite the issues, the A6s felt awesome at the track. They cover up all the problems with handling on the car. It also gave me so much confidence to drive too as the tires were so grippy. Instead of being slower than other cars in the corner, I was able to pass people at will with the A6 on the car. Based on my memory, I was reading average peak G was around 1.2 with the R-S3 while the A6s were doing 1.5 with more room to go.

Now here is the bad part. Before I could go home, I had to unmount everything in the hot sun to get everything loaded and back home. The entire process took about an hour and it killed my back and gave me sunburn for nearly 2 days. So before you decide on purchasing slicks next time, you might want to think about how much work you want to put into swapping tires.

I feel your pain. I used to trailer my R6’s to the track and swap them in the morning. There is nothing that ruins a track weekend by starting off sweaty and dirty and ending by being the last guy in the paddock swapping hot and filthy race tires before the drive home.

I finally broke down and now run Nitto NT01’s. They are not as fast as Hoosiers but at least I can drive them to and from the track.

I had those A6s, figure might as well use it up. Yes swapping tires suck, they are way too heavy and it's just way too hot. For next time, I am buying one of those portable tents. No way I am doing it under the hot sun again. That was two hours of lifting for less than 10 laps, also destroyed my fender liner and one A6 in that time frame too argggg.

Oh yeah I got some bonus laps at the end with the R-S3. Let's just say there is no going back after driving on the A6.

How low is your current setup on the Fortune's? What are your plans in fixing the suspension so you do not eat your liners and cut the tire on the fender?

I am still trying to dial mine in as well.

Slicks are fun ain't they. :D Now what's your next step. Trailering the Z back and forth? :stirthepot:

:) I know the feeling. After last weekend, I'm starting to seriously wonder how hard it would be to convert over to center-lock hubs (I don't think anyone even makes them for our car yet?) and install a set of air jacks in the car, but whatever all that would cost, I need that for other car upgrades that matter when it's actually running!

I have been looking at the Fortune Auto 510's with custom spring rates of 14k/11k.
How do you like the Fortune's?
My current set up is Swift R 10/10 an Nismo shocks.

Is there anyway you could drive to the track with R6s on (assuming dry sunny weather of course)? My nearest track is about 15 miles away. They are technically DOT legal, correct?

Forgeline wheels. I almost got them when I got my wheels.

Forgeline: Center Lock Wheels and Center Lock Conversion

Not sure, maybe an inch lower than stock? I have to remove the mud flaps to clear a lot of things.

My fix is to buy a smaller new pair of A6 for the front, I will keep my new rears.

I have had slicks for a long time, just not at the track and I don't usually do back to back comparison.

I think it is worth it

I honestly don't remember what I got, but I believe you can go even higher on the springs. They are not bad, but I am not going to say they are perfect. There are some weird quality control issues, but what are my other options at this price range right?

You could risk your $1200 R6 driving to the track. Just remember every mile you drive, you start to lose grip from the Hoosiers.

So 2k for hubs, $1500 per wheel? Deal :ugh2:

I've decided on stance comp 2's. I want true's and it's the only thing affordable. FA won't make true's, Odi at feal has good report but I want a two way, 18k/7k should be a good place to start.

I think (from what I gathered there) that those are some kind of bolt-on adapters. Kinda like a spacer, that bolts into your lug holes and the provides the center-lock. Ideally for a race car, you'd actually replace the hub/bearing itself with a unit that was natively a single center lug (and then you'd need completely different brake rotor hats and wheels than stock). At least, luckily the hub/bearing thing on our car is separate from the arm it bolts to, so it wouldn't be too horrible to get this done.

Yep, a $2000 spacer

What do you mean FA won't make true's? I thought that the 510's were true type and the 500's were OEM style. I was confused by this because when I ordered I thought the 500's were true type as well when you look at their product page.