First track day shakedown

Drew M

I've not driven a 370 on the track but I find this extremely difficult to believe.

wstar

Yes! The answer to every problem in the Z is more throttle, basically. Unless you're in a hard braking zone, or about to go flying off the edge of the track. Then maybe less throttle, I guess

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Journal thread / Car setup details

GSS138

Completely agree. More gas. It's one of the most un-natural instincts you have to overcome with this car. I am still pretty much a beginner driver myself, but my instructors this summer have been showing me how to really get this car to rotate using throttle, and even when appropriate at lower speeds trail braking.

It is not something instinctive that someone like myself that only has about 1.5yrs of experience doing would do. But once the light bulb goes off and you see it work. The car starts to make a lot more sense.

Of course then you need to buy a new diff.

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

Zauskycop

I wouldn't say you can drive the hell out of it...it is certainly less "tossable". But it does have an incredible amount of lateral grip that you can used to your advantage. It will take you time to work your way up to trusting it, but even on the STOCK tires I am on still (ugh) it is pretty amazing.

Get into the turns..ease into throttle then if you feel a bit of a push, try to tweak the throttle input (I mean MORE throttle) until you feel a very nice rotation from the rear. I have yet to snap spin mine (prefer not to actually) but that also means I haven't found the limit.

I weak points of this car are:

A. Oil temperature, which can be solved with an oil cooler. And

B. Brakes. Though they are incredible stopping, BUT they heat up. Fast. Very Fast. For light tracking you are okay. Want to run 25 minute sessions, start thinking about ducting for the brakes.

I have the Stillen kit, which undoubtably helps, but I boiled mine with fresh Motul, at Blackhawk Farms a month ago. Two disclaimers: I was running VERY hard on the brakes...wanted to really test them and after 9 or 10 laps of really pushing...I felt them going and backed out. Secondly, BHF raceway is known as the hardest track on brakes in the USA...if there is a harder one, we haven't found it.

Tracy Ramsey

Drew M

The brake and oil temps can be remedied with upgrades. You say there is a lot of lateral grip, but what about putting the power down coming out of a turn? I've heard mixed reviews about the LSD. Does one need to put in an aftermarket diff? Sounds like it could use a new suspension, too.

GSS138

Off camber downhill turns. Car does not like it. with its weight and rear camber issues on OEM suspension. I Got brave once chasing a Lotus down a hill. 420 degrees later...

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

djtodd

RA turn 11/12...pucker up

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clintfocus

side topic, dont know how you guys are boiling PS fluid

Rangerz

Mine only boiled on a certain track(east) its a bit more technical than the other configurations. That was on the stock fluid though. The Spec Z's were boiling as well....a few of them anyway. In hindsight I never even thought about just switching to redlin D6 and jumped straight to the cooler and redline.

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Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

Rusty

I've never boiled the PS fluid. But I have the Z1 PS cooler. I installed that when I installed my oil cooler. I figured I would do both at the same time. Also I keep my PS fluid level low, so when it gets hot and expands. It does come out of the cap and make a mess. Think this is what is happening with some people. Their have too much fluid in the resv. and it overflowing when it gets hot.

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clintfocus

i ran the original fluid from 0 miles till a month ago, i currently have 70k miles O_O lol, never had a issue. but i dont recommend that HAHAH

Rangerz

I might of went a little overkill chaging it all out after the boil over but, what the hell right just another 200 thrown at the Z. Even with out boiling over or expanding over that fluid is pretty damn hot though. Probably not that greT for the rack seals and such......see now you got me trying to rationalize the PS cooler

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Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

clintfocus

i prolly shouldnt have let it go so long, but i didnt have boil over issues even with socal heat and wide/sticky front tires. i changed it to fresh fluid last month and no change in steering feel lol. im going to do a better PS fluid cooler soon, just going to make my own so i can use a different shaped core

wstar

The only time my PS fluid has been touched since the factory really has been refilling from disconnecting the lines while installing various parts. Still on the dingy little factory cooler, too. Haven't ever boiled the fluid that I'm aware of. Then again would I even be aware of it if I did? Who knows My steering effort is pretty high normally just due to corner speeds, smaller steering wheel, high-caster alignment, etc.

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7AT Track Car!
Journal thread / Car setup details

RadioFlyer

First post on this forum! Yay me!

I'm thinking of picking up a used 370Z and I'm doing my research on the car for track/dd purposes. I'm coming from a fully built and setup 2002 WRX. I've spent some time at the drag strip but mostly on autocross and roadcourses. I was an instructor for a while at Cali Speedway, and what impressed me the most about my car was that I could run it all day on a track and not have to worry about heat, aside from the usual cool down lap, and parking it in neutral with the hood up etc. What I'm gathering is that Z's have a major heat management issue. So to address that:

- larger radiator
- oil cooler
- PS fluid (some say just fluid, others say fluid/PS cooler)
- brake ducts
- obviously pads/lines/fluid

Non heat related:
- weak LSD
- clutch master/slave cylinder
- camber/caster control arms
- various suspension setup strategies to alleviate understeer

My questions for you guys are:
- What about the transmission? Have any of you had any problems hot lapping with it?
- Ice mode on the ABS - does UpRev or anyone offer a solution to reflash the TCU? Aside from workarounds like running weaker pads, what do you do about that? Can you pull the ABS fuse and disable it altogether?
- As for air to the brakes, I read that it has to do with the front aero - has anyone run it without the front undertray to see if that helps at all? I doubt it would do that much, but it sounds like every little bit would help.
- How do the bearings and hubs hold up? Do you see excessive knockback? If people are cooking their brakes all the time, does that mean they are going through bearings like crazy?

This really is a great forum and a wonderful resource. Thanks!