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Originally Posted by 2.2Lude I'm hoping this isn't an issue, I haven't had time to check rear travel either though. The main reason I hope it's not the roll center
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#1 (permalink) | |
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9K rear spring seems in the right range if it is in the OEM bucket location with 10k front spring rate. If you have 9K rear springs in true coilover style, that is way too high to match the 10k front. But I assume you're already aware of that. |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Based on your build, there is nothing there that should throw off a solid track experience. As an aside, I think you need a good LSD to go along with the build. Good call on making adjustments to the alignment rather than throwing more parts at the car. It sounds like it was an improvement.
![]() It's great to get all the best information from everyone on the internet that knows everything (that's not a jab at the guys posting here - they know their shìt for sure). But you are the driver and seat time will be your best friend to help you understand all of the recommendations from the guys on this thread so you can apply them appropriately to your situation. As you get faster, you'll be more in tune with the variables that affect your driving experience.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Jar is spot on!!! Find one or two people to put your faith in while listening to the rest. Not everything that works for one or many will work for you because of your driving style and the uniqueness of your car. Find others that track Gs and ask them for help. A couple that come to mind are @apexgarge and @g35_tracker on Instagram. Both are very fast and experienced.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the input everyone else as well.
The car doesn't oversteer nearly as much anymore and pushes now on slower tighter corners. I'll play with the alignment settings more to find a good balance. I went with .04 in each side of toe upfront from 0 and that seems to have made a massive difference. I did exactly what JARblue was recommending. Consulted an instructor of mine who races professionally and he helped me through it. He believes its the front toe adjustment that changed the handling soo much. Seat time has also been tremendously helpful in understanding the car. I'm also going to look into grabbing a set of SPL front and rear end links before I get the car corner balanced. On my previous TSX corner balancing didn't make much of a difference at all, but that I wasn't as experienced of a driver and it was a completely different car/set up. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Update: Feels like I've got it all sorted now. Testing was done at Thunderhill West so I guess I'll really know next time I'm out to Laguna(Mid corner tuner 10 snap oversteer) but I think I'm good.
While technically within spec, I don't know where I got my previous .13 toe-in/each side value from but it was way too much. From educating myself more, talking with people I trust, and getting feedback from you guys I dialed the rear toe-in way down but had to run -2 degrees of camber on the factory eccentric bolts. So I grabbed some new camber arms, lockout bolt kit, and toe bolts to get everything exactly where I wanted it. New specs: -2.4 Front camber 0 toe -1.5 Rear camber 0.03D Toe-in/each side I previously tried .03D toe-in/each side upfront as recommended but the steering became too unresponsive for me, great on the freeway though. Zero road tracking. Anyway with these settings and hot temps of 37 front/35 rear the car felt very balanced. Turns in nicely and the car stays planted throughout a corner, I'm 100x more comfortable in the car. I don't see myself really changing much on the suspension set up from here on out with few exceptions down the road. 200tw tires once the MPSS are done, adjustable end links and corner balance after corner weighing, and possibly a SPL anti bump steer kit as I feel some binding. Otherwise it's all seat time. Beat my previously PB of 1:34 by 2 seconds and even saw 1:31 on the predictive timer, just needs a better driver. Last edited by 2.2Lude; 04-04-2022 at 05:45 PM. |
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