Daily Driver No Longer

Rusty · 05-01-2019, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cv129

Yea the “Rabbit Hole Gang” doesn’t help lol. I got a decent deal on a pair of RB fronts, now the want for matching rear pair haunts me weekly. I just really like the open slot design.

Side note: would be cool if there’s something like “rabbit hole society” sticker, although I am long way from qualifying.

Rabbit hole.

Rusty · 05-01-2019, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

Damn you Rusty... I'm eyeballing a good deal on a set of RB 2-piece rotors. Looking at around $1700 for front and rear rotors with open slots. Might be adding clutch to the DIY list

Can't go wrong with the RB rotors.

Unless you are planning on going to a 6/4 BBK set up.

JARblue · 05-01-2019, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Can't go wrong with the RB rotors.

Unless you are planning on going to a 6/4 BBK set up.

I mean... for the price... what's another few grand? Mr. Gale has a lovely BBK

Rusty · 05-01-2019, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

I mean... for the price... what's another few grand? Mr. Gale has a lovely BBK

My next set is going to be the AP Rad-Cal 6/4.

Rusty · 05-01-2019, 11:39 PM

You see why I told you to take the arms apart and anti-seize before installing.

BettyZ · 05-01-2019, 10:59 PM

Maybe a nice silhouette of Alice from Wonderland

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

BettyZ · 05-02-2019, 06:17 AM

To paraphrase Twister, "Rusty is smart, Rusty is wise" lol

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

JARblue · 06-12-2019, 09:50 PM

I'm wondering if I might be able to roll the trans out the rear of the car. Since I'll have the rear subframe and diff out. I'm guessing it won't fit under the rear bumper.

BettyZ · 06-12-2019, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

I'm wondering if I might be able to roll the trans out the rear of the car. Since I'll have the rear subframe and diff out. I'm guessing it won't fit under the rear bumper.

At this point, you might as well pull the rear bumper as well lol

Rusty · 06-12-2019, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BettyZ

At this point, you might as well pull the rear bumper as well lol

A cutting torch does wonders.

JLarson · 06-13-2019, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

I'm wondering if I might be able to roll the trans out the rear of the car. Since I'll have the rear subframe and diff out. I'm guessing it won't fit under the rear bumper.

How far up will you have the car? You'll have some room to move it around in the trans tunnel. I had mine just on jack stands and was able to slide it down enough to work inside it and get at the necessary other components for FW replacement.

JARblue · 06-13-2019, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLarson

How far up will you have the car? You'll have some room to move it around in the trans tunnel. I had mine just on jack stands and was able to slide it down enough to work inside it and get at the necessary other components for FW replacement.

I should be able to get it 22" off the ground. In the past I was limited to around 20" because of my floor jack. The new floor jack has a longer reach and higher lift.

That's exactly what I did for the Z1 CSCEK install years ago. But it was kind of a pain not being able to get it completely out of the way. With the rear subframe and diff out, I should be able to slide it back a good bit further even if I don't remove the rear bumper.

JARblue · 11-18-2019, 08:30 AM

Second guessing the ATI damper. My mechanic has had a couple that were damn near impossible to install/remove because they are machined with such tight tolerances. Proper machining would involve measuring the crank beforehand. I spoke with a couple of other knowledgeable individuals as well who echoed Kevin's concerns.

Anyone have additional thoughts on the matter?

Spooler · 11-18-2019, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

Second guessing the ATI damper. My mechanic has had a couple that were damn near impossible to install/remove because they are machined with such tight tolerances. Proper machining would involve measuring the crank beforehand. I spoke with a couple of other knowledgeable individuals as well who echoed Kevin's concerns.

Anyone have additional thoughts on the matter?

You are supposed to check the clearance before the install. They are machined tight. They are beneficial to us due to the fact that our oil pumps run straight off the crank. Any vibration or harmonics you can remove from the oil pump gears is a positive.

JARblue · 11-18-2019, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

You are supposed to check the clearance before the install. They are machined tight.

That's the issue. He checked the clearance. It was tight. Then installation was a PITA.

05-01-2019, 11:39 PM	#5 (permalink)
Rusty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 70 Posts: 35,579 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684440	You see why I told you to take the arms apart and anti-seize before installing. JARblue likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

05-01-2019, 10:59 PM	#6 (permalink)
BettyZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: USA Age: 39 Posts: 5,264 Drives: A Garage Queen Rep Power: 2684372	Maybe a nice silhouette of Alice from Wonderland Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk __________________ '14 MB Nismo \| Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs. Betty Mods

05-02-2019, 06:17 AM	#7 (permalink)
BettyZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: USA Age: 39 Posts: 5,264 Drives: A Garage Queen Rep Power: 2684372	To paraphrase Twister, "Rusty is smart, Rusty is wise" lol Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Rusty and bunk like this. __________________ '14 MB Nismo \| Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs. Betty Mods

06-12-2019, 09:50 PM	#8 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 45 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684442	I'm wondering if I might be able to roll the trans out the rear of the car. Since I'll have the rear subframe and diff out. I'm guessing it won't fit under the rear bumper. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

11-18-2019, 08:30 AM	#13 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 45 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684442	Second guessing the ATI damper. My mechanic has had a couple that were damn near impossible to install/remove because they are machined with such tight tolerances. Proper machining would involve measuring the crank beforehand. I spoke with a couple of other knowledgeable individuals as well who echoed Kevin's concerns. Anyone have additional thoughts on the matter? __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

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