CJM Road Race Fuel Pump, Production Round 4

street2soul

thanks for the follow up, the issue seems to have gone away on its own. it's been a month without issue. limp mode problem also fixed itself. I'm not quite sure if it was weather related, or maybe dusty air related since I'm daily driving this car into construction site

PharmDZ

Just ordered the CJM RRP + new billet hat for the stock pump through my shop, R/T Tuning! Excited to get this and not worry about fuel starve any longer. Plus my fuel gauge hasn't been working properly for almost a year now... bout time I fix it all at once. hah

phunk

We have everything to build them in stock! Shipping is about 2 days from when the order is received.

Thanks

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jaytirbhaw

whats going on with your gauge ? mines isnt working right either.

But looks like I may be getting one of these setups done by RT as well

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2014 Nismo #350 , Built Motor, Top Mount Single Turbo .... 620 whp/ 500 lbs wtq
2012 Track/Drift Z, build coming soon.
Build Thread - http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...70z-build.html

PharmDZ

Funny enough... after almost a year, it seems like tonight it started working again friggin car... We'll see though once they take the tank/pumps apart a bit.

phunk

Those fuel level sensors are very finicky. The 350z had the same issues too.

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phunk

Annual bump?

We have a couple of these in stock at the moment if there is anyone interested!

https://cj-motorsports.com/products/...race-pump-370z

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Calg37USMC

Has anyone done the leg work for G37 measurements lol?

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12'G37s|6MT|Malbec Black|Gen 3's|MD LTH|MD E370 CBE|Uprev|342hp/274tq

cossie1600

I was supposed to do this, but chickened out. How many hours is this job? I don't think I can do this at my house as my garage is underneath the living room. I have to do this over a weekend at my work's parking lot. Should I just pay some shop to do it? (I am not against paying someone, I am just afraid they will do a bad job)

Rusty

I thought you had done this already?

You can do this in your garage over the weekend. My garage is over the bedroom. So what. When you start this project. Make sure you run the tank down close to empty as you can. Remove all the plastic panels in the rear, and remove both seats. Makes working in the area much easier. Once you open up the gas tank. Any fuel you have left in there. You can use a hand pump from Harbor Freight to get rid of it. A small camera comes in handy. Once you got both sides of the tank opened up. You can one handed reach into the tank with the camera and take a few pictures of the inside. This will help you with what the inside of the tank looks like. When buttoning everything back up. The blue o-rings on top of the tank. Wipe them off when you get to that point of removing the tank tops. This will help to keep them from expanding too much. Seems like they like to expand sometimes, and people have a time to get them into place again. And when you start to install the tank tops. Smear some grease on the blue o-rings when you are installing the tops. The grease will let the o-rings slide into place and help seal.

Time wise. Depends on your skill set, beer breaks. 6 to 12 hrs.

Here's my install thread. There are others thread too.

phunk's road race fuel pump install

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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RN SHARK

I’ll be honest and say it was a little tricky doing the pump hat and RRP at the same time, as you have to mix and match directions. I had the most trouble with the electrical connections mainly because I have zero experience in crimping and some wires seem much too small for the supplied connectors. I can say that Charles was very helpful during the process and I probably annoyed him with my stupid questions via email, but he always responded. After all was said and done, I’ve had zero problems and it has worked flawlessly since initial installation. I originally just bought the RRP, but realized my top hat was broken when I took it out, so I had to wait on that billet part. But if you have all the parts, you can do it in a weekend. Good luck!

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'09 6sp/Z1/PowerTrix/SPL/Swift/SRP/Whiteline/F.I.LTH&CBE/UpRev by Seb/CJM/Stillen/Ings+1/RJM/TrackSpec/Sparco/Motul/Wavetrac/Coolerworx/Verus/CraftSquare
'14 SRT Grand Cherokee; '08 TL Type-S

phunk

I now include smaller terminals for easier crimping Just got a spool of them a month or two back.

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Shiru

My setup is working great except I lost my fuel guage. I checked the wiring and it seems the disconnect is happening somewhere in the connection between the inside connector to the hat and the outside connector that clips into the car's harness.

I would like to redo the terminals since the ones supplied at the time I bought my kit seemed a bit big. Is that something you would sell seperately or provide specs so I can buy the better sized ones?

Overall the kit has been a huge success, just this dumb pesky fuel level signal which has been problematic.

cossie1600

I bought it, then I left it sitting around and sold it ...

phunk

Hello please PM your shipping address and email address.

When the gauge goes out, I would recommend using a multi-meter to confirm that the problem is on the RRP side of the tank and not the stock fuel pump side of the tank. Photo attached of test data. You can do this without opening the tank. You just have to gain access to the top of the modules then unplug them and test the resistance across the 2 level sensor terminals. This will show that it is in range... in your case, it will show an open circuit at whichever one is causing the gauge to go blank. Of course, it will look different on the RRP side of the tank as the new 6-pin connector is used not that stock 2 pin connector.

Attached Images

z34fuellevel.gif (47.7 KB, 20 views)

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