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boosted DD with occasional 1/4 mi set up help.

Alignment and basic suspension mods and decent tires will do the job. 500rwhp isnt that bad. Its around 575+ that I find these cars to become a big hassle. Dont

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Old 11-19-2015, 06:21 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Alignment and basic suspension mods and decent tires will do the job. 500rwhp isnt that bad. Its around 575+ that I find these cars to become a big hassle. Dont lower the car too much and keep the negative camber in the rear set to barely at all negative, like half a degree maybe. Get some 18x11 or 18x12 rear wheels and put Toyo TQ 315 drag radials on them. First gear will still give you a hard time on the street but otherwise it wont be too bad. At the track you can drop the pressure and do a decent burnout and get it to stick pretty well. Theres more you can do but it doesnt sound like you want to get real wild with it... 500rwhp is relatively manageable anyway IMHO. Oh, if you get a boost controller that lets you ramp in the boost as ground speed increases, that just makes a world of difference.
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Old 11-19-2015, 06:33 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I already have those rims is the shed. That is the only reason why I even consider getting DR. I'm not in it enough to lay $$ down for a set of rims just for DR tires.

As for the Toyo, I just looked on the TireRack site and they don't carry them in the 10 wide, 19 diameter size.

As for the boost controller I have the TuboSmart Eboost street. I don't even have it hooked up right now because I don't know how to use it yet. I'm waiting till after I finish my DIY pod before I hook it up. In addition, I don't know how to wire it so that it can boost by gear or speed. I think I can do it but IDK.

RJM clutch pedal bought. Hope that helps with modulating the clutch for better launch. After that. I plan to practice riding the clutch, gas and use the E-Brake to hold the car still and launch.

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Old 11-19-2015, 06:38 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I wouldnt have different drag radial wheels either, I just drive on drag radials full time. I do have a set of 15" wheels for even better drag radials that I occasionally put on though.

Ya 19" makes the tires really low profile on a car that uses such a small diameter tire. 18" would be better. Having sidewall allows the tire to conform to the pavement better and will tolerate the compression camber more when you have some sidewalls and put the tire pressure lower.

Depending on your setup, you might have to change your wastegate spring to use boost by speed. A boost controller cannot allow you to turn your boost down, only up... so if your wastegate spring is high enough that you have traction issues, you would change the spring out for a lower one, then use the boost controller to increase boost with speed.
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Old 11-19-2015, 06:59 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I can't drive around on DR full time. I DD my car full time. rain or shine. Just not smart with DR. I understand about the sidewall thing but it's not an option as I can't/won't get a smaller rim and go through the trouble of removing rotors and calipers just for 1 night a month. Then drive 50 mins to the track, hopefully get 10 runs in then drive home.

So the simplest thing to do that can potentially get me better times is DR (will a 305 fit on the 10'' wide rim?), camber to 0 or even a little neg for when she squats. I'll have to find me a Break Check place with lifetime limited alignment that is willing to put the rears out of OEM specs.

Any answer on if I need the toe bolts for SPL camber arms? Reason I want SPL is I read good thing about them if you plan to hit the track. I don't want anything snapping on me as I have read about SPC.


Thanks you all so far for helping me out. I'm at a total lost is this stuff. Thanks for your time and knowledge for the help. Anyhoo, feed me more info. Me likes the brain food.

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Old 11-19-2015, 07:09 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I daily drove mine for years! Heck it was my only car for a few years. I just didnt drive it on snow, otherwise rain or shine no problem. My TQs were fine in all but the worst rain, in which case, I just had to slow down a bit. 18s actually fit over all the stock brakes.

I dont think I would run positive camber for the street, plus that would look hideous!

Take it to a performance shop that does alignment, they will set it wherever you want. I wouldnt want a entry level tech at one of those chain jobbers turning wrenches on the car.

What it comes down to is that you are going to find yourself in the same boat as most guys with a high power 370z: no traction. Everyone wants it, but its not important enough to the average 370z guy to actually do what is required to get it.

Its fine though, 500rwhp isnt that bad. Just some really soft high performance tires and no camber and closer to stock ride height should do you fine as long as you arent trying to get good 60' times at the track.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:14 PM   #36 (permalink)
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So DR for DD is ok at 500ish HP. The problem is that the TOYO don't come in OEM Nismo rim size. If I'm gonna DD, I might as well look good doing it. I'm not chasing crazy numbers really. I just want to hit 11.75s in the 1/4 mile. I think that's reasonable if i hook it ok me thinks. I did 12.89 on S04 and spring pressure at 7.5 lbs which my estimate is only 470 ish RWHP.

What other DD tire do you recommend that will somewhat last and hook well?

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Old 11-19-2015, 07:21 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I have never personally found a non-race compound tire to hold power on the street. But if I were to try hard to seek one, I would start with the tires they put on all the factory high power cars, the Michelins. I dont know which... they have several high performance tires and they all have almost the same name so I cant ever keep up which is which. But just look up like what the new Z06 runs and try something like that... at least, that is where I would start my search.

A couple years ago I ran a 11.7 or 11.8 or something like that on the Toyo TQ 315 with my 18x12 wheels.

Ya you are going to have a hard time finding a drag radial for a 19" wheel that has the right diameter for a 370z, because that skinny sidewall is sort of counter-productive. Nitto has some NT05R 19" drag radials that I run on my Mustang, but they are in the 28" diameter range to have some sidewall and that diameter doesnt jive with the 370z, ive tried.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:27 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Get some 18's and never look back. My 18s fetch 3x as many compliments as my 19" TE37s ever did. The car looks a lot more business on 18s! I swear!

Plus 305/35/18 is like the perfect rear tire size for what you are talking about, and there are tons of (r-compound) options in that size. Tires are also quite a bit less expensive in 18"
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:35 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I guess I'll really have to track Ron down at the shop and ask him what he thinks. It's just a little hard finding him with all the races and stuff.

I've read about you and Jwillis I believe car on the stang forum. Lots of crazy stuff there with high HP and drag racing! I also snoop around in the Camaro forum too. MAybe one day I will buy a c7 and read that forum too.

Edit: I think it's Wiggins.. not Jwillis

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Old 11-19-2015, 07:44 PM   #40 (permalink)
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They make a ton of power, the latest Whipple tunes are making 750-760rwhp at 12-13psi with 93 octane all stock engine of course... its pretty nuts.

But believe it or not, I have found that the 2015 Mustang IRS is MUCH worse than the Z at putting down the power. I have had to replace tons of stuff back there and I have more boxes of parts I have to swap in as its still not very good yet. Everything bends and flexes so much from the torque that its killing my rear tires every 2500 miles due to how far out of wack the alignment goes during full throttle.
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:06 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
Everything bends and flexes so much from the torque that its killing my rear tires every 2500 miles due to how far out of wack the alignment goes during full throttle.

First World problems
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