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Also, Spohn, if you get someone to make a custom plate for the inlet that takes it down to a single connection, let me know what it cost and who
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth
Posts: 3,349
Drives: Noisily.
Rep Power: 22 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Also, Spohn, if you get someone to make a custom plate for the inlet that takes it down to a single connection, let me know what it cost and who to contact to buy one...
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,024
Drives: too slow
Rep Power: 3596 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
+1. Curious about this myself. Also, need to cap whatever's not being used on the other end (I guess the heater outlet on the rear passenger corner of the engine, on that water outlet pipe). I've been running bypass hoses (x3 now) just because I didn't trust my previous blocking solutions with rubber caps + clamps.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth
Posts: 3,349
Drives: Noisily.
Rep Power: 22 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
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#5 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth
Posts: 3,349
Drives: Noisily.
Rep Power: 22 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Damnit wstar, now I'm paranoid. I'm going to buy some 8mm silicone line to bypass from the output on the coolant manifold to the input on the return pipe.
Jerk. :P |
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#6 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth
Posts: 3,349
Drives: Noisily.
Rep Power: 22 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Oh, my Wedge Engineering seat bracket finally came in.
It seems to be a solid piece made to the proper dimensions and specs. Took a while to come in, but I don't regret it. I like that it doesn't come pre-drilled, that way I can drill my own mount holes. It's also fairly heavy gauge steel, so I feel pretty confident that it'll be strong. There's also been a shift of priority in all of this that I haven't really mentioned here.... I'm going to get the car put back together, get my seat mounted and see if I can get the stock belt to work with the seat long enough to get it inspected, and if I feel like it's safe enough, street drive the car a little. The cage has been put on the back burner because of a couple of reasons:
Therefore I want to get the car running and drivable and then see where we are in a month or two on the cage situation. It sucks, but that's life.
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#7 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth
Posts: 3,349
Drives: Noisily.
Rep Power: 22 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So I had some difficulties with the accessory drive belt.
Basically the belt I had bought that worked for Spohn didn't work for me due to the underdrive pulley: ![]() As you can see, it's way too loose. I found that this one appears to be satisfactory, though: ![]() It's only an inch shorter, but it makes all the difference. So now I've got this for sale, I guess, for someone who wants to delete their AC but doesn't have an underdrive pulley:
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#8 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth
Posts: 3,349
Drives: Noisily.
Rep Power: 22 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Ordered:
Radiator Oil Catch Cans Green Filters (to replace crappy paper ones) AeroCatch Hood Pins Once that stuff gets in, I can work out the shopping list for my silicone hose order to get the coolant and vacuum lines squared away. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Dallas
Posts: 625
Drives: '10 370z 6spd
Rep Power: 3372 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Nice updates. That sucks about the cage builders being cagey. At least you'll be driving the Z again in some form. It's been quite a while since the beast prowled the streets
__________________
some mods |
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#13 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth
Posts: 3,349
Drives: Noisily.
Rep Power: 22 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
These ULTRA cheap 'Godspeed Racing' ones.
I'm thinking the hardware and hoses that they come with are probably garbage, which is why I'm already planning on using my own fasteners and silicone tubing. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,024
Drives: too slow
Rep Power: 3596 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Re: belts, I ended up using a 483 size. I can barely get a 480 onto the car (unbolting an idler pulley), but the tensioner indicator ends up pegged over at the "almost too tight" limit. With the 483 it's pegged over at the "almost too loose" limit, but it's not slipping badly or anything. Don't seem to be any inbetween sizes (even in 6-rib, which I'm using). I tried 485 and 490 before that and they were both way too loose on my car. I think we have the same basic config and same front Stillen 20% UD crank, but my alternator pulley is swapped for NST's 10% OD one.
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#15 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth
Posts: 3,349
Drives: Noisily.
Rep Power: 22 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
I didn't think about getting a 6 rib.. doh. There's that big of a difference between a 480 and a 483? It's only supposed to be a 3 tenths of an inch difference! Do you have MFG part #'s for those belts? I'm not convinced that my belt is going to work long-term. |
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