Sh0velMan's Track Car Build

SPOHN · 05-14-2013, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Well it's 3 lines really, but the true bypass is 5/8", the heater is 3/4", and then there's the throttle body line that's more like 5/16". I'm guessing the thermostat closes the true bypass as it opens the radiator flow path, but the heater line remains open full-time? In either case, I suppose a machine shop could make an adapter plate that goes on the side of the engine there and connects one or both ports to a single AN fitting like Spohn's pic.

I really don't think the car needs gargantuan amounts of bypass flow anyways, just to keep from boiling fluid in the heads till the thermo opens up. I still kinda think you could get away with a thermostat-only solution, too, though. Close off the heater/bypass lines completely, and install a modified thermostat that allows sufficient "bypass" through the radiator even when "closed" (by drilling out the plate that closes it a bit - it already has a tiny hole in it, just needs a bigger one).

Most of those lines are ready deleted on my setup.

Sh0velMan · 05-14-2013, 08:28 AM

I think blocking off the heater core flow makes the most sense, then doing a custom plate/inlet for the bypass flow.

As you say, the bypass flow would be fine with a smallish hose as once it is hot it'll just open the t-stat and it'll have plenty of volume to flow at that point.

I'm sure we all let our engines come up to temp before we put any load on them anyway, right??? Right????

Sh0velMan · 05-14-2013, 08:33 AM

Also, Spohn, if you get someone to make a custom plate for the inlet that takes it down to a single connection, let me know what it cost and who to contact to buy one...

SPOHN · 05-14-2013, 08:57 AM

Will do. It's simple and cheap.

wstar · 05-14-2013, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan

Also, Spohn, if you get someone to make a custom plate for the inlet that takes it down to a single connection, let me know what it cost and who to contact to buy one...

+1. Curious about this myself. Also, need to cap whatever's not being used on the other end (I guess the heater outlet on the rear passenger corner of the engine, on that water outlet pipe). I've been running bypass hoses (x3 now) just because I didn't trust my previous blocking solutions with rubber caps + clamps.

Sh0velMan · 05-22-2013, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

+1. Curious about this myself. Also, need to cap whatever's not being used on the other end (I guess the heater outlet on the rear passenger corner of the engine, on that water outlet pipe). I've been running bypass hoses (x3 now) just because I didn't trust my previous blocking solutions with rubber caps + clamps.

There's at least one opening (for the TB heater) that I am capping with a cap + RTV + clamp. I'm hoping that since the orifice is so small that the cap will be sufficient. I would really hate to have to run lots of tiny bypass lines...

Sh0velMan · 05-22-2013, 03:28 PM

Damnit wstar, now I'm paranoid. I'm going to buy some 8mm silicone line to bypass from the output on the coolant manifold to the input on the return pipe.

Jerk.

:P

Sh0velMan · 05-22-2013, 03:32 PM

Oh, my Wedge Engineering seat bracket finally came in.

It seems to be a solid piece made to the proper dimensions and specs. Took a while to come in, but I don't regret it.

I like that it doesn't come pre-drilled, that way I can drill my own mount holes. It's also fairly heavy gauge steel, so I feel pretty confident that it'll be strong.

There's also been a shift of priority in all of this that I haven't really mentioned here....

I'm going to get the car put back together, get my seat mounted and see if I can get the stock belt to work with the seat long enough to get it inspected, and if I feel like it's safe enough, street drive the car a little.

The cage has been put on the back burner because of a couple of reasons:

Fabricators keep blowing me off.
I need to devote funding to fixing up my daily driver a bit.

Therefore I want to get the car running and drivable and then see where we are in a month or two on the cage situation.

It sucks, but that's life.

Sh0velMan · 05-23-2013, 09:28 AM

So I had some difficulties with the accessory drive belt.

Basically the belt I had bought that worked for Spohn didn't work for me due to the underdrive pulley:

As you can see, it's way too loose.

I found that this one appears to be satisfactory, though:

It's only an inch shorter, but it makes all the difference.

So now I've got this for sale, I guess, for someone who wants to delete their AC but doesn't have an underdrive pulley:

Sh0velMan · 05-23-2013, 11:36 AM

Ordered:
Radiator
Oil Catch Cans
Green Filters (to replace crappy paper ones)
AeroCatch Hood Pins

Once that stuff gets in, I can work out the shopping list for my silicone hose order to get the coolant and vacuum lines squared away.

Mandingo · 05-23-2013, 01:09 PM

Nice updates. That sucks about the cage builders being cagey. At least you'll be driving the Z again in some form. It's been quite a while since the beast prowled the streets

Sh0velMan · 05-24-2013, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mandingo

Nice updates. That sucks about the cage builders being cagey. At least you'll be driving the Z again in some form. It's been quite a while since the beast prowled the streets

I see what you did there...

Sh0velMan · 05-24-2013, 08:22 PM

Boom goes the dynamite?

SPOHN · 05-24-2013, 08:24 PM

Nice as always. What catch cans did you get?

Sh0velMan · 05-24-2013, 08:32 PM

These ULTRA cheap 'Godspeed Racing' ones.

I'm thinking the hardware and hoses that they come with are probably garbage, which is why I'm already planning on using my own fasteners and silicone tubing.

05-14-2013, 08:28 AM	#242 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	I think blocking off the heater core flow makes the most sense, then doing a custom plate/inlet for the bypass flow. As you say, the bypass flow would be fine with a smallish hose as once it is hot it'll just open the t-stat and it'll have plenty of volume to flow at that point. I'm sure we all let our engines come up to temp before we put any load on them anyway, right??? Right???? __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

05-14-2013, 08:33 AM	#243 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	Also, Spohn, if you get someone to make a custom plate for the inlet that takes it down to a single connection, let me know what it cost and who to contact to buy one... __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

05-14-2013, 08:57 AM	#244 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 45 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	Will do. It's simple and cheap. __________________

05-22-2013, 03:28 PM	#247 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	Damnit wstar, now I'm paranoid. I'm going to buy some 8mm silicone line to bypass from the output on the coolant manifold to the input on the return pipe. Jerk. :P __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

05-22-2013, 03:32 PM	#248 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	Oh, my Wedge Engineering seat bracket finally came in. It seems to be a solid piece made to the proper dimensions and specs. Took a while to come in, but I don't regret it. I like that it doesn't come pre-drilled, that way I can drill my own mount holes. It's also fairly heavy gauge steel, so I feel pretty confident that it'll be strong. There's also been a shift of priority in all of this that I haven't really mentioned here.... I'm going to get the car put back together, get my seat mounted and see if I can get the stock belt to work with the seat long enough to get it inspected, and if I feel like it's safe enough, street drive the car a little. The cage has been put on the back burner because of a couple of reasons: Fabricators keep blowing me off. I need to devote funding to fixing up my daily driver a bit. Therefore I want to get the car running and drivable and then see where we are in a month or two on the cage situation. It sucks, but that's life. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

05-23-2013, 11:36 AM	#250 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	Ordered: Radiator Oil Catch Cans Green Filters (to replace crappy paper ones) AeroCatch Hood Pins Once that stuff gets in, I can work out the shopping list for my silicone hose order to get the coolant and vacuum lines squared away. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

05-23-2013, 01:09 PM	#251 (permalink)
Mandingo Track Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Dallas Posts: 625 Drives: '10 370z 6spd Rep Power: 3370	Nice updates. That sucks about the cage builders being cagey. At least you'll be driving the Z again in some form. It's been quite a while since the beast prowled the streets Sh0velMan likes this. __________________ some mods

05-24-2013, 08:24 PM	#254 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 45 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	Nice as always. What catch cans did you get? __________________

05-24-2013, 08:32 PM	#255 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	These ULTRA cheap 'Godspeed Racing' ones. I'm thinking the hardware and hoses that they come with are probably garbage, which is why I'm already planning on using my own fasteners and silicone tubing. SPOHN likes this. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

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