Sh0velMan's Track Car Build

wstar · 05-14-2013, 07:41 AM

Well it's 3 lines really, but the true bypass is 5/8", the heater is 3/4", and then there's the throttle body line that's more like 5/16". I'm guessing the thermostat closes the true bypass as it opens the radiator flow path, but the heater line remains open full-time? In either case, I suppose a machine shop could make an adapter plate that goes on the side of the engine there and connects one or both ports to a single AN fitting like Spohn's pic.

I really don't think the car needs gargantuan amounts of bypass flow anyways, just to keep from boiling fluid in the heads till the thermo opens up. I still kinda think you could get away with a thermostat-only solution, too, though. Close off the heater/bypass lines completely, and install a modified thermostat that allows sufficient "bypass" through the radiator even when "closed" (by drilling out the plate that closes it a bit - it already has a tiny hole in it, just needs a bigger one).

SPOHN · 05-14-2013, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Well it's 3 lines really, but the true bypass is 5/8", the heater is 3/4", and then there's the throttle body line that's more like 5/16". I'm guessing the thermostat closes the true bypass as it opens the radiator flow path, but the heater line remains open full-time? In either case, I suppose a machine shop could make an adapter plate that goes on the side of the engine there and connects one or both ports to a single AN fitting like Spohn's pic.

I really don't think the car needs gargantuan amounts of bypass flow anyways, just to keep from boiling fluid in the heads till the thermo opens up. I still kinda think you could get away with a thermostat-only solution, too, though. Close off the heater/bypass lines completely, and install a modified thermostat that allows sufficient "bypass" through the radiator even when "closed" (by drilling out the plate that closes it a bit - it already has a tiny hole in it, just needs a bigger one).

Most of those lines are ready deleted on my setup.

05-14-2013, 07:41 AM	#1 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3596	Well it's 3 lines really, but the true bypass is 5/8", the heater is 3/4", and then there's the throttle body line that's more like 5/16". I'm guessing the thermostat closes the true bypass as it opens the radiator flow path, but the heater line remains open full-time? In either case, I suppose a machine shop could make an adapter plate that goes on the side of the engine there and connects one or both ports to a single AN fitting like Spohn's pic. I really don't think the car needs gargantuan amounts of bypass flow anyways, just to keep from boiling fluid in the heads till the thermo opens up. I still kinda think you could get away with a thermostat-only solution, too, though. Close off the heater/bypass lines completely, and install a modified thermostat that allows sufficient "bypass" through the radiator even when "closed" (by drilling out the plate that closes it a bit - it already has a tiny hole in it, just needs a bigger one). __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Wh1te370z - BMW 328is Track Car Build	wh1te370z	Other Vehicles	25	03-22-2012 10:21 AM
United touge/track drivers Streets of Willow Track Day	K.R.O.P.S.	Southern California Region	0	10-05-2011 07:25 PM
Forged Performance: R35 GT-R Track Day Build	ChadB@Forged	Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip	2	06-10-2011 09:40 PM
Datsun Roadster 1600...To build or not to build	motoextreme	The Lounge (Off Topic)	66	02-13-2010 12:40 AM