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I used the sanding disc in the picture (50grit). It chewed through the bulbus part of the weld pretty quick. I then changed up to a 36grit and I wish
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
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I used the sanding disc in the picture (50grit). It chewed through the bulbus part of the weld pretty quick. I then changed up to a 36grit and I wish I led off with that! It also took everything down flat. Don't think I'd use a die grinder due to that.
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#2 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
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![]() 36 grit is pretty course. 50 grit is finer. I normally start with a 36 grit, and finish with a 80 grit. If I want it really smooth. I then move to a 120 grit.
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浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
Rep Power: 589452 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
I can't imagine stitch welding the ENTIRE car. lol. FWIW, both of my buddies at the shop told me not to do it. But... I was already elbow deep doing the rust repair and removing the false firewall. For someone considering doing some stitch welding, I really hope the stumble onto this thread. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 70
Posts: 35,579
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
Rep Power: 2684440 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() Stitch welding a whole car. You better have it in a jig that you can turn. It's no fun when you have to twist yourself in knots trying to get into position to weld.
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浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html |
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