Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin

I'm doing a lot of studying for an exam lately, specifically this:
https://www.sans.org/cyber-security-...nsic-analysis/

Trying to knock that out before I take a bunch of time off and work on my car... In the mean time I'll try to keep going on small things.

Here's a step by step of the waste gates going back together. The owner of BSI said that the copper gasket in the gate is critical and to use medium locktite on the set screws. It looked like the high temp grease rubbed off so I added a bit more.

gbrettin

Turbo Guard came in, only took 1 month. I'm surprised how well they match to the turbo's color.

The alternator was removed from the car so that the exhaust manifold could be attached to the up pipe. WAY easier that way. I'll need to see how much material I need to remove from the alt now... shouldn't be too much. I can probably blast the up pipe with a hammer too. The foil can be knocked in a bit.

Waste gates are finalized on the car. Pushlocks will be used for reference lines from the turbo. Down the road I'll use compressed air on top of the dome so I can program some traction control. I triple checked that the fire rings were on the gates before I put them on. Fun fact... I lost one and I had to order a new one. Shipping sucked from Canada. lol

Hotrodz

Start that damn thing for fck sake! LMAO

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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gbrettin

Trust me, I want to.

Rusty

Sit in the corner of the garage and make vroom-vroom noises.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gbrettin

Off the heels of a month hiatus of my car, I'm back at it now. I had to buckled down and study for a GIAC GCFE test:
https://www.credly.com/badges/c43dd6...5-f76b17941d7f

Which now brings me to my two week half days at work so that I can work on my car. 1st up. Fix the Lokar dipstick. I wasn't satisfied with the angle and how it was nearly on the manifold. Moving the dipstick into the first hole allowed for equal spacing and didn't cross over a plug.

FINALLY I got around to dropping the tank. All in one day? Yup. I did have some help so that sped everything up massively. After the tank was on the ground, I shook the hell out of the tank and turned the clear fuel to milkshake (that smelled like a bad bar).

A new low volume fuel pump was used to pump the ethanol into a 5 gal bucket about three times. After the fuel was out we wiped it out with a rag and brake cleaner.

Today... Fuel pump goes in, fuel lines, fuel filter and tank back in... I hope.

gbrettin

Went to Lane Automotive, It's like Summit but a 40min drive, to get more fittings. I also picked up an Optima Red Top battery and an ICT billet hold down. Unfortunately They forgot to pick my battery hold down and I left with out double checking them loading the car. bummer.

I had to run through all the fittings like 10 times minimum in my head before heading out to Lane Automotive but I nailed it all down. I even found a trick -10orb to -8orb coupler that I can use to plumb in the dual -6 to -8.

A bit of massaging was needed for the CJM fuel hat to make the -8 return work. If you check out JCHammond's build, he has crimped lines that flow like -8. Or something like that. It's far more impressive than my hood rat grinding solution. However, I needed to make what I have work.

Lastly, I added some bad *** high flow mesh screens to the fuel pumps.

I suspect that the tank can go back in tonight now that all the fittings are here.

gbrettin

We only got around to putting the lines in yesterday. If the camera looks hazy... that's because I was sweating buckets.

Sending and return lines look good. I picked up a flex fuel sensor and loaded that into the Motion Raceworks billet sensor holder. I need to make a bracket for the Motion Raceworks holder and use some threaded inserts. A self tapper went into the ID f750 just to let it hang out while lines are getting ran, threaded inserts will be used there too.

I'm very happy with the Hot Rod Fuel line and have zero issues recommending it so far... I'll check back with you after the fuel is flowing though.

Heat shielding, charcoal canaster and exhaust mounting brackets found their way to the bin.

gbrettin

Went to the store and picked up a bunch of threaded fittings. I should have some -6 PTFE coming in today so I can get my transmission cooler rear mounted. I need to go back to the hardware store and pick up some aluminum stock to build brackets for both the trans cooler and Motion Raceworks ethanol sensor.

I put in all my pigtails on my IGN-1A coils and found out one coil is too close to the plenum. D1CKED OVER AGAIN by the twin plenum. I'll probably lower the coil and drill a new hole. Super happy I'll be drilling into the fresh powder coat...

Put the alternator back on. I was able to hit the heat shielding in a bit with a hammer and then had just enough room to hang the alternator. It's so damn tight in there I needed to remove the waste gate, although I tried not to. The bottom bolt lines directly up with the waste gate.

At this point, it appears almost everything has interference when I want to take things apart.... It's a big damn puzzle.

In other news, I ordered rolls of cable so that I can rear mount the battery and take care of other electrical. Guess what 1/0 gauge copper is? not cheap. lol.

Tinker Electronics 7" dash was ordered so that I can display any gauge I want. It eventually will be molded into the cubby.

Last thing I want to say. The shop is incredible hot. My entire shirt is wet from sweat, it's miserable with the humidity. Outside has been 90deg so it's like 100 with 75% humidity. Doesn't look like this week will be much better.

Ghostvette

Bolt the coil directly, using the screws that hold the bracket on? You would have to go longer screws.

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2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/

gbrettin

Exactly what I was thinking about doing.

gbrettin

Made a mount for the Motion Raceworks Flex Sensor. Both the flex sensor and f750 filter were mounted. Both were positioned perfectly so that the lines join perfectly between each other.

The shop was still... hot AF...

gbrettin

Guess what?!?!?! ANOTHER hot day, 100+ in the shop... I worked until I started to get a stomach ache from the heat.

I had to drop the tank because the transmission lines need to go over the top to get to the transmission. Also, old gas line was left on top that I needed to get out, a filter needed to be added to the air inlet to the tank and I had to cap a different vent.

I started off with mounting the transmission cooler. I pretty much did the same process as I used for the flex fuel sensor. While everything was out in the trunk area, I decided to paint it with VHT Roll Cage paint. The area was first cleaned with paint prep and etching primer was used. The good news about the heat was that the paint was dry in about 5-10min. Downside... I stunk the shop up REALLY bad.

I took a few extra photos of the under car so you can see how everything is flowing together (finally). The fittings on the fuel pump were slightly different than the earlier pictures too. When running custom line you want to be on the inner part of the tank .

gbrettin

Well, I pretty much had a melt down last night and rage quit. All good now. I came to the realization that I'm too methodical and move at a snails pace to just throw my car together so I can have it ready for LS Fest next month. Moreover, I'd want to drive it. With that said... I'll continue to work like hell on it but just accept the fact it will be drivable next spring. I still think I can get the car to fire off and put around a bit by fall to work out kinks.... but I just need to be real with my work speed. I'm not fast and I will not work until 3-4am every night killing myself to get this going.

I am very happy with the fuel lines, trans lines, brackets/mounts and other things completed over the last HOT two weeks.

As for last night, I started to tidy up the lines with zip ties and magnets. I'll get the magnets replaced with something else eventually. The magnets are NOT weak. They can hold 15lbs.

For the tank, I added a filter to the tank's breather so I don't get dirt in the tank. I was going to cap the little vent next to it but JCHammond told me that goes to the filler neck. Then it dawned upon me that the vent is used to create pressure while filling the tank during fill ups so that the handle will automatically shut off because of the venturi effect... SO that is getting hooked back up.

Food for thought, if anyone is going to run a rear mount cooler then you will need 20' (which I bought). It's the perfect amount.

Last thought... Get some flush cut clippers if you cut zip ties. They are 2 dollars and make it so you don't cut yourself wide open on zipties.

Ghostvette

Sometimes the hardest part of any project is accepting your personal limitations. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.

The build is looking great, and while there might be minor issues to iron out once the car is running, you will be happy knowing you did it right and not just threw it together.

__________________
2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/