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Black Sheep Industries turbo blanket came in. This deserves its own highlight because it fits awesome and the quality is great! Normally when I see turbo blankets they are big
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
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Drives: Tricycle
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Black Sheep Industries turbo blanket came in. This deserves its own highlight because it fits awesome and the quality is great! Normally when I see turbo blankets they are big and bulky. Simply put, BSI are the best blankets I've ever seen.
If you are wondering why I haven't made and real progress the last few days... well, I needed to slow down for a mental break. Sitting back and acquiring a few parts seemed better right now. Next week I'll put in some work; however, in a couple weeks I will take some time off from work to make a massive push to get the car running. AKA - Long days and a few long nights so I can hit the mark of "running by July, driving August and trip September". At this point... I find that to be a reasonable goal. |
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#6 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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Quit dragging your feet.
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__________________
![]() 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html |
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#7 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Well. The good ol' feet dragging allows me to think about how to piece this turd together and purchase (recover) quality parts. However, this is the end of the road for stalling. I'm taking time off from work to make a final push in a few weeks. This is the calm before the storm.
It's time to sh1t or get off the pot. This is where I'm at: |
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#8 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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I need a reducer for the two 1" lines returning from the A2W to the swirl pot. The two lines will reduce to a single 1" line. I have three 1" NPT bungs that will need to go into an aluminum box.
Before hitting the metal break with aluminum, I used heavy paper stock (picture frame board) to get the dimensions. The box will end up next to the passenger side headlight near the swirl pots. |
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#9 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Glad I made the paper box because the first one was too large. I mean, It would probably work but it just didn't need to be that large for the purpose I needed. So I made a new template. I changed the template to two separate halves and then took it out to the shop. I then remembered that I had bought nice square aluminum stock previously... That is great news! Because it's 90% done with no welds!
Someone on my IG had reached out to me and then informed me that the square stock would be really bad for the pump due to the dead spots in the corners. Looked up the information and sure enough, he was right. There would be a high likely hood of air bubbles being produced as well. Simple solution was to 45 the ends. Now to weld.... But first, the waste gates needed to be broke down because they need to be Cerakoted too. I talked to the Mr. Coating Dude and he said that my parts were due for coating Wednesday, and its the day before Wednesday when I broke them down. What that means is money was saved because all the coating is being done at once and secondly... there's a 3-4 week delay for the coating process because he is really backed up. Actually.... he is backed out WAY more now. Point being... I got lucky getting it in when I did. Pan on the transmission had to be dropped for the Lokar Transmission Dipstick. It was a pricey item to purchase for essentially a tube. However, upon installation I saw why. The quality of all of it was great! The dipstick comes with a transport plug that locks in it doesnt leak. When the transmission is back in the firewall mounted line can lock back in. First picture shows the transport plug and the second picture shows the line plugged into it. Build quality for the Waste Gate is top notch. The thing that surprised me was that the valve inside the gate is made out of inconel. The valve is quite heavy due to that BUT it will not melt down. I'll find a video of it. |
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#11 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Started the drain/fill procedure to get rid of the heavy crude from my tank. The tank was drained and then filled with ethanol. Ethanol should break down any of the sludge in the tank. The first fill already looks WAY better than before.
I have new stainless steel high flow filters for my pump. The old filters will not be used. A buddy of mine offered to help with some thermal protection for the alternator. He made a comment to someone on my FB that sums it up pretty well so I'm just going to copy and paste what he wrote: We make the exhaust for the current Ford GT. The muffler is completely wrapped in this material. The material is 0.2mm 321 stainless steel with a small dimple pattern for strength. Under the shield we use Unifrax 3mm thick thermal mat which reduces radiant temps up to 200*C. All the straps are 304SS BandIt straps applied with a pneumatic gun that tightens, locks it and trims the excess. This is a five hour hack job that came out pretty nice. This will work way better than a SS or Ti wrap. ------------------ So yeah, it's not perfect but it will suite my needs nicely. |
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#14 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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I know this post will not seem like a lot because there wasn't a lot of work done last night. BUT. sometimes that's just how it goes. I feel it's worth while showing not every night you can get a lot of work done when working on a project. Sometimes getting out there and doing SOMETHING is better than NOTHING.
Exhaust manifolds are on with BTR multi layer steel gaskets, firecore wires on and ARP exhaust manifold bolts (hey, good bolts need a mention). Take a look where the Lokar Oil dipstick ended up. The Lokar transmission dipstick needs to be mounted... but I need to find some threaded inserts for that so I can bolt it in. Exhaust manifold shielding will work absolutely beautiful. I have a couple lines that will run on the bottom side in proximity. |
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#15 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Flushed out the tank again. Looks like the bottom needs a slight scrub and then I'll be good.
Passenger side up pipe went on reasonable well. Driver's side has a tad too much heat shield and insulation. Looks like I will need to remove the belt and alternator before that goes on. Alternator will likely get touched by the ginder too. I took the opportunity to paint the BSI letters on the gates with white VHT paint. The paint dried for 24hrs. The gates were taped off and then hit with high temp clear. |
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