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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUiRZmxKZJc?t=204 Looks like Ye Ol' Claped Out has the same issue as I do. 3:24 in he goes over having an oil collector. Mr. Logan has a similar setup as
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#2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Ran the oil pressure lines and almost had it perfect. I ordered two 12" lines, one with two straight ends and the other with one straight/90. Two straight/90 lines would have been perfect. It's amazing what a difference hose ends make on cable direction. Thankfully the cost is pretty reasonable for 12" line so I ordered another one. The pressure side will be nice and tidy.
With the topic of oil at hand... I needed a mount location for my Turbowerx pump. My AC took a turn for the worst last year... so I salvaged the bracket and took it to hack town. I'm going to attempt to use the AC bracket with the Turbowerx and mount it to my engine. I had to stop last night because the bolts I had were too long and I wasn't happy with random shop bolts for the Turbowerx. Last edited by gbrettin; 05-04-2021 at 09:40 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Went to the hardware store and then got the bright idea to counter sink the mounting bolts. That allowed me to mount the pump up a bit higher and to have more surface area on the pump to be on the bracket. I'm going to need to pick up a fender washer because the rubber isolator is pulling in a bit. There's a collar on the inside that I thought would prevent it... but I guess not.
The mount is nice and low so I can keep the CG down low. The pump will pull from an oil collector (yet to be made) directly in front of the pump. The pump will then put oil back into the pan's -16 line. Hind site, I wish that was -8 but the best I can do is reduce to -10. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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I was hung up last night on using huge square aluminum stock I picked up for an oil collector. After chatting with a buddy, we landed on using round stock. -10 bungs will be welded to both ends and the center will have a -10 which points downward. The entire collector is about 2' long with the hole directly in the middle.
After the length of the oil collector was figured out I could cut my oil drains. Looks like I bought enough -10 hose to wrap up the collector to the scavenger. Not sure I will have enough from scavenger to pan. We'll see. I'm going to put an inline oil filter to the scavenger pump. Well, because I don't trust the oil coming out of the turbo and then going through an expensive pump and then going into my expensive engine. I probably should also hook a gauge post pump so I can see flow or if the pump stops working. Hmmm. Turbowerx link: http://www.turbowerx.com/page8/page9/page9.html |
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Just make sure there is a slight downhill to the pickup point.
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#6 (permalink) |
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I was thinking about putting a slight bend on the aluminum. But, the scavenger pump will produce a vacuum in the pipe so it should be good no matter what.
Scavenger pump failure will screw me no matter what. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk |
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#8 (permalink) |
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After a much needed vacation at Fontana Village then Zdayz, I jumped back on the grenade.
The oil collector has been wrapped up, lines completed for the oil collector, fixed the airbox side bracing with fender bolts, passenger side turbo up pipe completed and both waste gates are on. Lotta stuff over the last week or so. Also, the waste gates are not absolutely lined up with each other, it is what it is. The right exhaust manifold, from factory, sits higher than the passenger side. If you have OCD issues don't look at the car too long. lol |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Well kids, it's been a long haul but the Hot and Cold side fabrication has been completed. All oil lines have been completed (lied, I need to hook one up). All lines have been cleaned. Coolant lines have been completed. Scavenger pump w/ lines completed.
Everything has been put together as it needs to be... So what does that mean? I took it apart. I did that so that the exhaust manifolds and up pipes can be ceramic coated AND heat wrapped with foil. My buddy that designed the Ford GT exhaust offered to use the same materials on my manifold and up pipes... yes please! That solution will make it so I don't burn up my alternator or lines! F'N fantastic! Only downside here is the cost of the ceramic coating, that shizz is expensive... like 400 bucks. It would look a bit silly with rusted manifolds on the car IMO. So... you're probably asking what's next? Well... Brake lines need to be bent for the front. The MS3 harness needs to be pulled and hooked into the standalone. Fuel lines need to be ran and the gas tank needs to be drained and cleaned. Battery needs to be moved to the back (buy a battery too). Purchase a drive shaft, which needs to be done this week because the lead time is like 4-6 weeks due to metal shortages. Yay - Covid! So, Next question is... when will it start? Maybe next month? When will it drive? Maybe August? Those are the goals anyway. I'd REALLY like to get my car to LS Fest East this year and do some show and tell. Brian Settle said that he will be taking his car to the same event and I think it would be rad to have to wild *** Z cars sitting next to each other. If you haven't seen his car... Do your self a favor and look it up. It's probably the most wild 350z race car I've seen in person. I'm sure the build has a TON of little things between the large items I mentioned. I'm not going to be surprised if a few large items pop up. Additionally, if dates slide... It is what it is. I really thought this car was going to be running years ago. Yes, there really is a -16 to -10 reducer available on the market(Shown on pan). lol Notice the fender washers now in the shroud. 1/2" bolts were used directly into the aluminum core support where I had tapped some threads. Last edited by gbrettin; 06-08-2021 at 11:03 AM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Oh... I need to do A2W lines... but that's 1" cheap hose from the hardware store. I also need to order a small radiator for the A2W heat exchangers.
Yeah, Like I said... There's stuff to be done. Nothing major though. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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I made some mounts for my headlights last week. Not terrible exciting but necessary. 2 tabs took 4 days (spare time). One mount was cut and tested (1 day). Other mount was replicated (2nd day). Hardware acquired - 2 bolts and mounting C clip - Primed Hardware (3rd day). Painted a few light coats and final fitment. (4th day)
PTFE -8 and 8 fittings, waste gate reference lines, Fragola Fittings (need more), Lokar transmission dipstick, Black Sheep Industries turbo blankets, CSF 7065 King Cooler and Weldable 1" bungs have all been ordered. Half of the stuff mentioned has come in through the week and I'm still waiting on the other half. CSF King Cooler was selected for the compact nature of the radiator, it includes a fan and it has 1" (-16) bung fittings for the water lines. The 1" weld able bungs are needed to make a merge from the two lines coming out of the A2W intercoolers to one line returning to the radiator for cooling. I need to bend up a little water merge to make that happen. That's all the components I needed to make the closed loop work. If this makes no sense... let me know and I'll do more explaining. I went with Hot Rod Fuel hose... Yeah, different than some of the Fragola I've been using but the price was great. Also, my buddy used it on his build... It looked nice... but we'll see in the long run https://hotrodfuelhose.com/products/...gs-bundle-deal Black Sheep Industries has got to have the best stuff out there! I've been a fan of all their stuff so far. The turbo blanket is no exception: https://blacksheepindustries.ca/coll...-turbo-blanket The Lokar transmission dipstick is bad ***: Last edited by gbrettin; 06-20-2021 at 09:22 PM. |
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